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rear u-joint noise

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jbissette, Oct 9, 2001.

  1. jbissette

    jbissette 1/2 ton status

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    After rebuilding my transmission on my 88 pickup I replaced the rear u-joint because in was in bad shape. Now even with a new u-joint in place you can hear a clunk, clunk that varies with the speed that you drive. There is no play in the new u-joint and it does not move in the yoke. Any ideas for me to check out. Thanks
     
  2. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    A friend of mine with an '89 K5 experienced the same thing. His problem ended up being a broken carier in the rear end. The bearing collar oposite the ring gear snapped in two. New Auburn posi carier and ring & pinion, no more problem!



    '85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
     
  3. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Do you have a slip yoke t-case. If you do the splines MAY be worn causing the clunking. Also some auto lockers cause a driveline "clunk".

    See my rig at <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot</a>
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    It could be a number of things.
    Your carrier bearings could be shot.
    Your tranny mount could be shot.
    Could be excessive wear in the Ring and pinion.
    Engine mounts could be shot.

    The slip yoke that was mentioned above could be a culprit. However, mine was causing a clunk but only taking off from a dead stop after having used the brakes with substantial force.

    Surgeon General's Warning:
    Viagra and steroids may be harmful to your spouse![​IMG]
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  5. jbissette

    jbissette 1/2 ton status

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    The clunk in my driveline or rearend happens probably ever turn of the tires or maybe even every turn of the driveshaft.
     
  6. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    More than likely it sounds like its coming from the rear end.
    the best bet is to take the rear-cover off and have a look for anything obvious. You may have a tooth thats broken off on the pinion or the ring gear.

    Surgeon General's Warning:
    Viagra and steroids may be harmful to your spouse![​IMG]
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  7. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Did you replace both U-Joints or just one? If you only did one, try replacing the other - Age and wear will cause the older one to try and turn at a different speed, and essentially kill itself.

    Of the 5 toughest dogs in the neighborhood, my cat's ranked #3
    <a target="_blank" href=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>pugsley.alloffroad.com</a>
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Your ring and pinion is missing teeth. I'd be willing to bet money on it. That's what happened when my 10 bolt went. It wasn't bad, just annoying, but it definitely sounded weird, and was hard to diagnose (had to have someone ride in back to see it).

    When we pulled my cover, you wouldn't believe the mess we found.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  9. jbissette

    jbissette 1/2 ton status

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    Where is the cheapest place that I could pick up another ring and pinion for my truck. What if I grabbed one from a junkyard, do you think that would be an ok alternative for short term if I had to. This is my daily driver and it has already been parked for a couple of weeks working on the transmission. Thanks
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    New R&amp;P's aren't expensive. $157 bones from Jeg's or Summit. If you were a member you could get 10% off at Satan parts.

    Surgeon General's Warning:
    Viagra and steroids may be harmful to your spouse![​IMG]
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  11. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    First off I would make sure it is the rear end making your problems. Next if it is the rear, I would just loook for a whole axle... 10 and 12B's can behad usually pretty cheap. Just match up the gear ratios. Overall it will be way cheaper then getting an R&amp;P and then paying someoone to set up the gears or paying the money for tools and wasting a day or two setting up the gears.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
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  12. jbissette

    jbissette 1/2 ton status

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    Yeap, you where right I pulled to cover and there are 3 teeth missing off of the pinion.
     
  13. jbissette

    jbissette 1/2 ton status

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    I called a couple of local junk yards and they want like $600 for a complete rear axle, does that sound about right?
     
  14. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    That sounds really high. Under 300 you would be doing alright.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
     
  15. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I would suggest checking the local parts trader or calling a 4x4 place. Junkyard usually want a small fortune like that. I personally wouldn't pay more then about 175 or so for a 10B. A 12B or 14FF generally can be had for 250 or 300. I would take a good look at the future plans of your truck and how you use it (hard wheeling? daily driver? both? etc) This may be an excellent time to bite the bullet and go to 3/4 axles. Otherwise I think a 12B is a great upgrade from a 10B.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  16. EZdoesit

    EZdoesit Registered Member

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    yeah you should be able to find a complete rear axle for under 200 bucks, just gotta shop around, I bought a complete rear disc brake axle for my mustang for 125 bucks and those are rare, chevy truck axles can be found anywhere.
     

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