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rear wheel bearings

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by gtasteel, Oct 22, 2004.

  1. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    I'll spare the gory details.... Long story short I have to replace the rear wheel bearings on my 72 K5 this weekend and I was wondering if they make some kinda sealed bearing upgrade that I can Put in there or am I gonna be stuck packing a new bearing in there? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    Thanks for your help! I am new to the K5 game and this place is great thus far! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Stay safe!
     
  2. jakeslim

    jakeslim 1/2 ton status

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    have fun packing /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  3. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    so thats a no? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  4. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Put some grease on them so they don't get messed up when you first drive , but the gear oil does get to them when you turn corners . The stock bearings by a quality company will be fine . The only way I know of to get that kind of bearing is to pony up some dough for Moser c-clip eliminators , and their axleshafts , that kind of cash lifts your truck /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  5. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Just FYI, one or both of the bearings in the passenger side hub of my 14 bolt are [censored] right now. They make metal scraping sounds most of the time and vibrate alot of the time too. Just throwin this out there, gonna put new bearings in tomorow. I greased the hell out of them when I rebuilt the axle and that was only 10000 miles ago, how often are you supposed to repack the grease?
     
  6. jakeslim

    jakeslim 1/2 ton status

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    14 bolts are not supposed to be packed, they are lubed by the differential fluid. When I changed mine, I did use some grease, but many here have said not to use to much because it keeps the diff fluid away from doing its job.
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    They sell "repair" rear wheel bearings that move the race to a non worn spot on the axle shaft(assuming its an SF 14 bolt,not a full floater),they sometimes call them "axle saver"bearings--they should have them at Napa or Autozone,you have to specify them or you will get the "regular"bearing.Not all mechanics like to use them,fearing the scratched up axle might fail easier,but I have had no problems--but I dont go rock crawling either-- /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  8. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    What axle is it? 12 bolt , no grease, 14 bolt, just smear some grace on the outside of the bearing.

    When you do it, jack 1 side up at a time, so you wont leak any oil.
     
  9. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    hey the chiltons book is kinda unclear here. What do I have to do in the rear diff to get the axle out? Its a 12 bolt.

    Its a good thing that Im still classified as a "newbie" I can still as these silly questions.... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  10. K5Chris

    K5Chris 1/2 ton status

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    on the 12 bolt, you have to pull the diff cover, rotate the carrier so the pinion pin will come out, pull the pinion pin out of the carrier..... then, (assuming youve already taken the brakes off), you push the axle shafts in twards the middle, and pull the c-clip off the shaft, then pull the shaft out.

    on my 14 bolt FF, i didnt put any grease on them. i put gear oil in them when i assembled the hubs, then, before i drove on em, filled up the diff, then, jacked up one side at a time to let oil run down the tubes into the hubs, then, topped it off again. seemed to work good.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    pony up some dough for Moser c-clip eliminators , and their axleshafts , that kind of cash lifts your truck /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    C clip eliminators are not designed for the street. They leak and they're just really not made for this application. If you've ever considered this, consider the Warn full floater conversion instead....or just get a 14 bolt. C clip eliminators are designed for drag cars, not 4x4s and street use where the side loading is unacceptable.

    Great product, wrong application.
     
  12. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    on the 12 bolt, you have to pull the diff cover, rotate the carrier so the pinion pin will come out, pull the pinion pin out of the carrier..... then, (assuming youve already taken the brakes off), you push the axle shafts in twards the middle, and pull the c-clip off the shaft, then pull the shaft out.



    [/ QUOTE ]

    You dont need to take the brakes off, just the drum. Theres a slide hammer to get the bearing out, but take the seal out first. I dont knwo how else youd get the bearings out. When you put new seals in, put some assembly goo, or grease around the spring so they dont come off when you hammer it in.
     
  13. K5Chris

    K5Chris 1/2 ton status

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    yeah thats what i meant..... pull the drums.... or pull the calipers and rotors if youve got discs. i ran discs on my 10 bolt, so i'm used to "pulling the brakes" to get to the axle shafts.
     
  14. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    well I got everything apart almost. I have to go pick up a slide hammer for one of the bearings. The other one I just kinda scraped out of the tube into my hand.... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    I'm gonna need to get another axle for that side cuz its all chewed up were that bearing came from together.

    On the side that is still in one piece, there are 2 seals around the bearing. One on each side. If the diff oil is supposed to lube the bearings then why is there a seal in the way? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The fluid runs out of the end of the spindle and into the hub.
     
  16. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    ever wonder what catastrophic bearing failure looked like? Wonder no more! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
    [​IMG]
     
  17. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Make sure you get all the "logs" from the junk bearing out of the axle tubes,you wont want one to get between the ring and pinion,or the spiders(crunch!!!).Flushing out the differential really good would be a good idea too,use brakecleaner,or diesel fuel in a garden srayer.Getting all that grinding compound out is important. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  18. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    Well as you can imagine, the axle didnt take too well to the bearing being like that, so does anyone have any leads or sugjestions on were to get a new axle?
     
  19. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I see your from Hawaii!(lucky stiff! /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif)--I dont know if they have junkyards there--I went to the big island in 84,but dont recall seeing any--but they probably arent a popular tourist destination.The axles are the same for quite a few years,if yours is a 12 bolt they will fit up to about 1980 or so,later ones will have metric lugs,but might still otherwise be the same.
    Another possibility is the "Axle Saver" repair bearings I mentioned in another post available at Napa and other parts stores.They are offset so the rollers in the bearing contact a different spot on the axle where its not all boogered up.They seem to work well,but some mechanics fear the shaft will snap easier due to the scoring of the old bearing,but I havent seen any of them break during normal street use. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  20. gtasteel

    gtasteel Registered Member

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    There are worse places to live than Hawaii, I know cuz I lived in a few of them....

    Anyways, I desided to go new and replace both of them and be done with it. They are inbound to me right now. I'll let you know how it all turns out.
     

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