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Rear wheel cylinder question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 77crewcab, Sep 14, 2004.

  1. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Okay I noticed today that there is a big greasy spot in my parking space where I park my truck under the rear drivers wheel. Go to look and the drum is covered in crud. Passenger side is fine. Wheel cylinder is apparently bad. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif That would explain the poor braking when I dropped my son off at daycare this morning. I thought I was just tired and imagining the poor braking. So I check the mc and the front chamber is empty /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif So I read my haynes and it was a clear as a cup of coffee and only shows pic of the six bolt axles. So please someone give me a walkthrough on how to replace the cylinders on a 14blt FF and just how much of a pain is this going to be. I figure this is probably due to my other recent brake work ( replaced mc/booster and front caliper--worked great for a couple weeks) so I can expect the other rear cylinder to go out soon as well right. Might as well do both at the same time. I dread this cause I have a bad disc in my back so I have to go real slow and take lots of breaks. Then I come inside and take LOTS of paiin killers. Should I maybe let a shop do it for me? If it would normally take more than three hours to do both then it is likely to take me two days right now doing one side per day. Any way give help me out and give me some idea of what I need to do and what to look forward to.
    Thanks
    Monty
     
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    AFAIK just about everything is the same, just to get the drumm off is a little different.
     
  3. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    From what I got by reading the haynes once you get the drum off there is the brake line and two mounting screws that are next to the bleeder on the back. After unscrewing the brake line and 2 screws the cylinder seems to jus pop out without having to mess with the actual brake pads. Is this right and it is that simple? Basically getting the drum off is the hard part?
     
  4. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    yep exactly. you may have to remove a spring or two as it may be in the way.
     
  5. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Okay and it is advised to replace the cylinders on both sides at the same time right?
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I would say since it sounds like you didn't replace them when you installed the axle, it would be a good idea to replace them both.
     
  7. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Axle is factory 14bltFF on a C20 Crewcab but I guess I might as well replace both my local parts store has them for about $11 each.
     
  8. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    They can be replaced without disassembling the brake-drum innards (of course you have to take out the axle shaft and remove the drum, but you don't have to mess with the shoes or any springs). And, at $10-15 a piece, there's no reason not to change them both!
     
  9. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Okay what do you mean by "take out the axle"? I know the 14btFF is a different animal, but I have never done any sort of work on it before. I know I take off the wheel and from there the drum is accessible but do you mean that I have to remove all the little bolts on the hub, then pull the axle out, then remove the drum, then cylinders? Do I have to remove the differential cover and or replace the diff fluid at the same time?
     
  10. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    Becuase of the full float design the drum is held on to the bearing hub by the studs. Just like the rotor is on the front axle. So you must pull the axleshaft then remove the nut and locking tab insinde the tube to get the bearing hub and drum off (very heavy), then you can get to the wheel cylinder. You don't need to pull the diff cover, and you might lose a little gear oil but not much doing one side at a time.
     
  11. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Well I have been meaning to get change the differential fluid anyway so I guess i could do it at the same time. Whjat sort of socket do I need for the nut inside the tube? And would I need an impact wrench to break it free?
     
  12. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    It's a special socket available at a parts store - should be about $10-15. No, you won't need an impact to break the nuts free! There will be two per side. The first one you get to should have a torque of around 90 ft-lbs. on it...they never seem to be hard to remove though. Then there's a metal ring with locking tangs that just pulls out. Behind that is the other locknut which should have a torque of about 30 ft-lbs.
     
  13. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Okay thanks! Btw you mentioned the tq settings do you happen to know what I need to tq the small bolts that actually hold the axle in to? It doesn't sound too hard to accomplish so I guess I'll be trying it within the next few days. Too bad Coors and Vicodin don't mix too well. I guess I have a choice after I finish of a cold one (or two, or three) or being a zombie for a few hours and feeling no pain. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    Anybody know the part number or what type of socket I need to remove the nuts in the tube after removing the axle? I tried calling parts stores and even two different dealerships and none can tell me what I need to get.
     
  15. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    The one you need will be the bigest 6-lug one at most parts stores. I think it is 2-5/8" in diameter. The axle shaft bolts go back in at about 110 ft*lb.
     
  16. 77crewcab

    77crewcab 1/2 ton status

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    thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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