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Rear Window Electrics

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BigBadBowTie, Aug 21, 2000.

  1. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=purple>Ok, all of the sudden my rear window doesn't work (again). It won't roll down with the dash switch or the key in the gate. No biggie, anyone got a good place to start t-shooting this?
    </font color=purple>

    [​IMG]

    <font color=purple>Rick
    86 K-5</font color=purple>

    http://www.BigBadBowTie.ColoradoK5.com
     
  2. sosamantx

    sosamantx 1/2 ton status

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    I would see if there is a fuse for it, or maybe a fusible link. Do you have voltage going to the switch when you try to roll down the window (IN)? Now what about coming out of the switch to the window lift motor? And do you have voltage at the motor itself? You might have to unplug the connector going to the motor itself, if the motor is drawing too much current and pulling down the voltage. Is there a seperate ground coming off of the motor itself. It sounds like it is a bad motor. But you said again, is this an intermittent thing? - Steve

    Steve Sosa a.k.a. "sosaman"
    http://sosaman.home.texas.net/carpics.html
     
  3. I would do a quick search here in the message forum cause this comes up every once in a while.

    If the motor is running (a quiet/fast/high pitched whirring) then the cable probably came loose b/t the motor and the two large sprockets that push the window up.

    BTW, you can hand crank an electric window if you get in a tight spot. You can take off the panel on the inside of the tailgate and remove the cable from the motor and crank that with pliers/vise-grips or even a drill.
     
  4. NYC K5

    NYC K5 1/2 ton status

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    check the connections between the tailgate and the rear pan thats usually it
     
  5. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

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    OK, here's what I've got so far. The window will not work either via the dash mounted switch or the Talgate with the key. I pulled the pannel & pulled the plug off of the motor. Had a freind try the dash switch while I put a multimeter turned to DC 20 Volts on the plug. First I grounded the black off of the meter, then tried the red on both sides of the plug, no go. My wires are plugged in from the rear harness to the plug. I'm gonna check for continuity from the rear harness to the plug next.

    Best I can figure, I'm not getting power to the gate. Anybody have the quick solution, or am I gonna be a wire tracing fool?

    <font color=purple>Rick
    86 K-5</font color=purple>

    http://www.BigBadBowTie.ColoradoK5.com
     
  6. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Check the connection the firewall. I had problems with mine before I tore it down for rebuild. There was corrosion in the connector that killed power to the back and apparently the front also. After i cleaned the corrosion out good, it worked fine. On my 79, the connector is located on the firewall just behind and slightly above the left bank aft intake manifold bolt. It is a bulkhead feed through connector which means you can unplug it from the engine compartment side and from inside the passenger compartment. Check both sides of the connector. My corrosion was on the inside portion. You can remove it completely from the fire wall but it will take two people to get it back in. It kinda seals like a rubber gromment. Good Luck
     
  7. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    Check the wires comming too the quick-connect between the gate and body. My wires had at one time been tapped into by one of those "thiefs" (what we call them!) And the sore left had corroded and the wire was ruined. Happens sometimes when a trailer hitch is being installed by laymen.....
    It can also have been hurt when you where out wheeling.
    It's really exposed where it sits. Mine was inside black plastick-tubing so I went past it 100 times....[​IMG]

    http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
     
  8. CBLAZER81

    CBLAZER81 1/2 ton status

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    Since nobody else mentioned it I will.Check the "Safety" switch in the tailgate,by the latch if I remember right.It's supposed to kill the power to the window if the gate is open.Just a thought,Alot of other's have had probs with that including myself.

    Chuck Dirks
    81 Blazer
    Colorado,USA
     
  9. sosamantx

    sosamantx 1/2 ton status

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    What about power at the switch itself? Have you checked that yet? Is there a seperate fuse or fusible link for the rear window unit itself? I would have started from the front to the back, but it shouldn't matter. - Steve

    Steve Sosa a.k.a. "sosaman"
    http://sosaman.home.texas.net/carpics.html
     

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