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rear window problems- I did a search, still stuck

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MudNurI, May 26, 2002.

  1. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    Tried to get the power window operating today, to basically no avail....we used the drill to get it to go down/up and that worked...tried the key lock- nada...hooked up the wires, flipped the switch clunk clunk clunk both ways..the tailgate cover is off.and I can see 90% of the parts...but what I need is some sort of diagram of what is what...what exactly am I suppose to be looking for??where to start. None of the vehicles that we have owned have ever had a power window problem, so we are in the dark with this thing...Sorry to be so darn vague, but I really am lost on this.

    thanks
    Brandy
     
  2. 91K5

    91K5 1/2 ton status

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    If you mean the motor makes a clunking sound when trying to roll it up/down, then I would guess the gears inside the motor are worn/stripped out. If this is the case then you should just buy a new motor for it.
     
  3. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    But if it works with the drill, wouldn't that mean the motor is good?? See what I mean, I haven't a clue!

    Brandy
     
  4. 91K5

    91K5 1/2 ton status

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    You mean using a drill connected to the flexible cable end that went to the motor?
     
  5. YtseJam

    YtseJam 1/2 ton status

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    If you take the cable out of the motor does the motor operate? Remember the latch sensor has to be closed for the motor to operate. Reread the post in the last thread again, you have just over looked something.
     
  6. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    The problem is that I have no clue whats what back there.

    with me sitting in the rear of the truck- facing the tailgate, I hooked up the drill to the cable- on the right hand side...the driver's side of the tailgate..did I by pass the motor by doing that? anyone wanna come up to VT and figure this out for me? FREE BEER!!

    Brandy
     
  7. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    From your descriptions, it sounds like a motor problem. I would suggest getting an LMC Catalog or go to a Chevy or GMC dealer and go to the parts department, and they can supply you with an exploded view with a parts list for the tailgate.
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    There are couple safety devices on the power windows. One is a swithch attached to the driverside latch. sometimes they will have a bunch of resistance due to worn contacts. It would be possible for their to be enough restance that it could not operate the motor. It would power the motor give that clunk like it's trying to engage but not enough power (amps) get get the motor running. It can be bypassed for a temporay fix but I highly recomend you replace the switch. without that switch if the key were on the window would operate regardless of the gate being closed or open. If it were operated while it were open without some suport it could be broken. To get at that switch the first thing to do is disconnect the battery . Pop the linkage for the driverside latch loose from the centersection by the motor. There is a foam bumper on that linkage. Slide it off through the access pannel. Remove the two screws that hold in that latch and pull it out. The switch is on it. with a peice of wire and a couple spade crimp on connectors you can make a jumper on the plug that goes to the switch to see if it will operate without the switch to see if your swtich is defective. On the lady's 79 there was enough resistance in that switch the window almost doubled it's travel speed /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
    The other device and probably where your having your problem is a mechanical limiter. towards the bottom of the gate on the center stuff by the motor is a plunger deal. when the window comes allthe way down it puches down on a pluger linkage. What it does is once the window is down it releases the latches. and keeps the widow from being allowed to raise till it's relatched. I had some problem that a sping had broken and was causing us some fits on our's Might check it's operation.
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yes, where you unhooked the cable from is the motor. So you did bypass it. FWIW, you can take those motors apart, but there isn't much rebuildable in them IIRC. I just grabbed one out of the wrecking yard.

    Was the cable "hard" for the drill to turn? Should move pretty easily, but it never hurts to grease the window tracks/rollers and gears. I never tried pulling the cable out of its sheathing, but if you can, wouldn't hurt to grease that either.

    Grim pretty much covered the "clunk clunk" issue, just have to figure out why its doing that.
     
  10. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Find a voltmeter. Disconnect the connector on the motor and measure the voltage coming from the connector (not the motor) while trying to operate the window. Measure from an unpainted chassis point to either of the two terminals. One terminal is hot for " window up", the other is hot for "window down". Then you can backtrak through the various switches.
     
  11. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    The cable turned freely..no tugging or anything. One thing we did was grease up the tracks, and the big wheel thing with teeth on it..got all those parts nicely oiled, etc.. We have been working on the seatbelts today, so we didn't get to that end of the truck yet. The other thing I noticed is that my hinges on my tailgate are shot...so I may end up getting a new one, from LMC, and swapping over all these pieces..though a junk yard motor sounds pretty good to me. If only we had a junk yard here. Maybe when I come down to Paragon in August, Wayne & Donna can point me to a yard..that'd be cool!

    thanks guys!
    Brandy
     

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