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REAREND QUESTION

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MJB774X, Apr 21, 2003.

  1. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    I recently set up my own ring and pinion, I'm pretty confident that I set it up correctly, yesterday I drove my blazer for the first time with the set up, I drove it around for about an hour, when I got home I felt the case and it was prtty hot, when I set up my gears I did run a pattern to get the depth right, in fact it took several trys, I set the backlash to 9 thou., this was as close as I could get it to 8, so whats up with the heat? is it becuase the gears need to get broken in? I was thinking that maybe I set the nuts that you adjust the backlash with to tight, thus "squezing" against the carrier bearings, any thoughts, I cranked kind hard on those nuts does anyone have suggestions to setting those things, how tight?
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> It's damn near impossible to get the carrier bearing preload adjusters too tight, Randy's says to make them as tight as possible with a 10" spanner, and also says that he has never seen a failure due to too much preload on them.

    How hot is hot? Could you leave your hand on the case? I've hear (not an expert here) that so long as you can leave your hand on indefinately then it's OK. If you're worried then open it up and make sure that the gears aren't discolored from heat. </font>
     
  3. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    yeh you can leave your hand on it, but it is pretty damn hot, I'll run it for a while longer, and then pop the cover off and check it out, I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced this, I was also thinking once the gears develope a wear pattern the heat will go away.
     
  4. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    What kind of gears did you put in it?
     
  5. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    precision gear, 4:56's
     
  6. Shagnaz

    Shagnaz 1/2 ton status

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    I have the same gears and don't have the heat problem, but I have a problem with the pinion. I tighten it down and it loosens up. The nut isn't moving. I put locktight on it and marked it.
    Do you have to put alot of torque on that pinion nut?
    Thanks
    Mike B
     
  7. mastercraftkpk

    mastercraftkpk 1/2 ton status

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    They will get very hot during the break in period. That is why it is recommended to break them in gently....maybe 5 miles then a cool down, then 30 miles then a cool down, then 60 miles then a cooldown, then CHANGE THE FLUID. If you are worried about the heat breaking down the lube, then change the fluid and you should be OK.

    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    yesterday I drove it around somemore, when I felt for heat, the heat was concintrated on the pinion housing, as I posted a while back one of my buddys dads set up my rearend, he used no tools and did it all by guess and feel, when I checked the pattern it was way off, I took Shaggy's advice and re-did the setup myself, the one thing I did not do was take the pinion assembly apart, so I'm thinking my buddy's dad put to much preload? I don't know, I don't even know how your supposed to put the assembly together properly. do you guys think that the gears still need to be broken in? or is it possible the pinion assembly is to tight? when I did the set up I was able to spin the pinion with my hand, but maybe there is to much preload on the bearings? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  9. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

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    It's just a case of "new Gear's and new bearing's" after the break in period, they should be just fine.

    After the break in period, I would suggest, changing the oil in the axle. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    I remembered when my buddys dad put the pinion assembly together, he used the old crush sleeve and tighten down the nut with an impact, then he backed it off and tightened it down more, he did this several times, today I called tri-county gear, I told him how the pinion housing part was getting real hot the first thing he said was too much pinion preload, he then told me that you only tighten the nut to 17 inch pounds of torque, my $hit was tighten by a freakin impact gun /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  11. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

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    Torqued with an impact wrench ehhhh? Not Good /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  12. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I remembered when my buddys dad put the pinion assembly together, he used the old crush sleeve and tighten down the nut with an impact, then he backed it off and tightened it down more, he did this several times, today I called tri-county gear, I told him how the pinion housing part was getting real hot the first thing he said was too much pinion preload, he then told me that you only tighten the nut to 17 inch pounds of torque, my $hit was tighten by a freakin impact gun /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    <font color="green"> Hmmm, this is the SECOND episode in the last few months of someone's freind's dad messing up their gear install. The moral of the story? Don't let your freind's Dad set up your gears, and if you do, at least research it first so you know what should be going on with it. Hopefully the gears aren't ruined.</font>
     
  13. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I remembered when my buddys dad put the pinion assembly together, he used the old crush sleeve and tighten down the nut with an impact, then he backed it off and tightened it down more, he did this several times, today I called tri-county gear, I told him how the pinion housing part was getting real hot the first thing he said was too much pinion preload, he then told me that you only tighten the nut to 17 inch pounds of torque, my $hit was tighten by a freakin impact gun /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    <font color="green"> I was thinking about this post last night for some reason, and it occured to me that you might have misunderstood the guy when he said that you want the nut at 17 on/lbs. You don't actually want the nut torqued to 17 in/lbs, what you want is for the DRAG on the pinion assembly to be 17 in/lbs. That's how the bearing preload is measured, using a bar type in-l torque wrench to measure the resistance to turning the pinion. The nut itself will be torqued to close to 200 ft/lbs so long as the crush sleeve was not overcrushed. </font>
     

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