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Reasonable Price for Gears

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by RiceDaddy, Aug 9, 2003.

  1. RiceDaddy

    RiceDaddy Registered Member

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    I'm in the market for new gears. I'm looking at putting 4:10's in my 10-bolt front and 12-bolt rear. I was quoted the following today from a reputable dealer:

    Yukon gears for rear - $178
    Install kit for rear - $86
    Eaton Posi unit for rear - $342
    Yukon gears for front - $184
    Install kit for front - $87

    Total = $877 before tax

    Does this sound reasonable or too expensive? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Sounds like a good price, but wasting money on a limited slip unit will turn out to be a mistake, and spending any money at all on a 1/2 ton rear axle is a total waste.

    Get a locker and you'll never go back to l/s units. I have an ls in my big truck and a locker in my daily driver. Pretty soon, I'm ditching that for a locker.
     
  3. k5blazerus

    k5blazerus 1/2 ton status

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    When I bought gears for my D60 and 14b from randy's I paid 752.50. What I got was front and rear gears. Front and rear and a new carier for the front.
     
  4. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    and spending any money at all on a 1/2 ton rear axle is a total waste.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  5. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    These do sound like decent prices. I got Yukon's from Randy's when I did my 10-bolt coupld years ago. They ran fine and are still running good, although they are now under a Jeep!

    However, I would recommend going with a full locker instead of a LS. There is a bog difference when off-road and only about $150 price diff. In addition, with the new gears, they are going have to be setup by someone (you or someone else doesn't really matter). When installing a locker, the gears also have to be setup. So, do it once and be done with it. It would be terribly expensive to go back in later JUST to install a locker and reet the gears.

    As far as durability, you will OFTEN around here have people tell you how horrid and ridiculous it is to put money into 10-bolts. Don't listen to them. I ran 10-bolts locked front and rear with 330 HP and 35s for almost 2 years. I carried 4 extra axleshafts with me at all times and NEVER ONCE had to use them. I NEVER BROKE A SINGLE AXLE COMPONENT on my 10-bolts.

    Sure, if you ever go 1-ton, you will never get your money back out of the 10-bolt axles, but that is no different than any other part of our trucks.

    The only other option is to go 1-ton rear. Let's see, that would involve new wheels (8-lug), some sort of 6-8 lug conversion for the front (don't want to carry two spares - one 6 lug, one 8 lug), reduced ground clearance (14BFF much bigger and lower than a 10-bolt), probably driveshaft mods, and probably still gears. You figure it out. It is much more expensive to go 1-ton rear than just adding to your 10-bolts. Sure, it is sunk money if you go 1-ton later, but how many of us EVER built our rigs only once?!?
     
  6. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Sounds like a good price, but wasting money on a limited slip unit will turn out to be a mistake,

    [/ QUOTE ]

    No, actually, getting the eaton is a really good idea, espically if you have the gov loc!!!!
     
  7. TxK5Blazer

    TxK5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    These do sound like decent prices. I got Yukon's from Randy's when I did my 10-bolt coupld years ago. They ran fine and are still running good, although they are now under a Jeep!

    However, I would recommend going with a full locker instead of a LS. There is a bog difference when off-road and only about $150 price diff. In addition, with the new gears, they are going have to be setup by someone (you or someone else doesn't really matter). When installing a locker, the gears also have to be setup. So, do it once and be done with it. It would be terribly expensive to go back in later JUST to install a locker and reet the gears.

    As far as durability, you will OFTEN around here have people tell you how horrid and ridiculous it is to put money into 10-bolts. Don't listen to them. I ran 10-bolts locked front and rear with 330 HP and 35s for almost 2 years. I carried 4 extra axleshafts with me at all times and NEVER ONCE had to use them. I NEVER BROKE A SINGLE AXLE COMPONENT on my 10-bolts.

    Sure, if you ever go 1-ton, you will never get your money back out of the 10-bolt axles, but that is no different than any other part of our trucks.

    The only other option is to go 1-ton rear. Let's see, that would involve new wheels (8-lug), some sort of 6-8 lug conversion for the front (don't want to carry two spares - one 6 lug, one 8 lug), reduced ground clearance (14BFF much bigger and lower than a 10-bolt), probably driveshaft mods, and probably still gears. You figure it out. It is much more expensive to go 1-ton rear than just adding to your 10-bolts. Sure, it is sunk money if you go 1-ton later, but how many of us EVER built our rigs only once?!?

    [/ QUOTE ]


    I have to agree with the 10bolts they will hold up to most punishment when you don't get into the stupid pedal too often. I run a set of 10bolts that I got from Txbluethunder with 4.56 gears and they are working great so far not torn anything up ......Jason
     

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