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Recovery equipment

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Panther, Oct 2, 2000.

  1. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Besides a winch (the obvious answer) what are suggestions about recovery equipment to carry. What kind (size, brand, where to get, etc.) of straps to have? What kind of hooks or attachments to get to plug into hitch receiver? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    <font color=blue>I don't get stuck, I'm just in the mud when I stop for lunch [​IMG]
    - NJFourWheelers</font color=blue>
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Some prefer chains and some prefer straps. I am one of the ones who prefers straps. you dont get that hard jerking with straps as you do with cains and the straps that stretch, help you get unstuck..

    I used a few Superwinch 3"x30' straps. They have a lifetime warranty. Explorer procomp also has some.. There is a company called Master Pull which has synthetic Winch cable and some sweet straps that are rope and they are called super yankers. They have sizes up to an inch and a half and can handle roughly 72K pounds!!!
    Check them out at: http://www.masterpull.com the only down side to these guys is that they are expensive...

    I would like to try some of their products.....

    ALso, get some clevis's, they help alot when people dont have anchor points... Make sure you get some large ones..

    Other than some straps and some clevis's, that is about all you should need.. Just make sure you have a couple straps so you can get up on dry land to get a better pull!!

    HTH

    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I've got an 8' long tree saver strap and a 4" x 30' yank strap. My bumpers hold 2 large clevis shackles each and the mounts for the shackles goes right to the frame (through the bumper). I also have a 48" Hi-lift on the front bumper and a folding shovel in the truck. As a last resort I think the most important recovery equipment is either my CB or cell phone (if I have the range or if their is cell coverage)[​IMG]
    I think a pull pal would be a helpful addition.
    Some guys carry chain link fence or boards (to put under tires)

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  4. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Most important is to have good tow points front and rear. A tow ball is NOT good enough. This goes for everyone you are wheeling with, too. I carry a 2"x20' (Keeper) & 2"x30' (Explorer Procomp) straps, a 4"x6' (EP) tree saver strap, 2 10,000lb chains about 6' long, a 60" Hi-Lift jack, a come-a-long, some clevises, and a full size shovel.
    Jim '80 GMC.

    It's a Wheelbase thing, You're Jeep wouldn't understand!
    http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com
     
  5. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    What do you suggest for tow points? I have heard the tow hooks on the front aren't nearly strong enough. Are the hooks that go into the hitch receiver good or not worth it. Thanks for all the help.

    <font color=blue>I don't get stuck, I'm just in the mud when I stop for lunch [​IMG]
    - NJFourWheelers</font color=blue>
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I've seen the reciever mounted clevises, and they work well. I think the point was not to use the ball hitch for safety reasons. You'll still have to figure something for the front though. A good custom bumper, Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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  8. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    The front tow hooks are plenty strong enough. Think about it like this: how big and what rating is that reciever hitch pin? The stock tow hooks are more than twice as big. In addation to that they are the safty style. They are made to bend before they break. They are also much beefier than the one sold at most 4WD stores. If need something bigger go to a truck junkyard and find something that will fit.
    Jim '80 GMC.

    It's a Wheelbase thing, You're Jeep wouldn't understand!
    http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    While the stock tow hooks are good for straight line pulls I would be carefull when getting pulled from the side. My 79 got the frame horn twisted pretty good getting yanked out of Monkey Island at Jays.
    Personaly I like clevis holes.You can do it the way the army does and put a 1 inch bar through the bumpers bolted to the frame. They air lift the trucks by these so plenty strong for pulling you out. In the rear a class III reciver hitch will do the ticket but it's always good to have multiple points. you can put some cheap hooks on the side plates of most reciever hitches http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/cgi-bin/i/images/skid001.jpg
    The Rest of the gear I feel is essential is
    Shovel
    HighLift and stock jack
    Tow strap
    Chain I refuse to use it for jerk pulls but to secure a vehicle on hills and things like that it's nice to have. Also is better to use with hand winches if you don't have a electric winch. Recovery straps will streach and you will lose about half your potential pulling distance with a hilift or comealong.
    sealents (some times recovery involves repair)
    tools
    sealents
    JB Weld
    Spare rear axle shaft. Cant drive it when they are busted like you can with a busted front shaft.
    Ball joint press and a set of old ball joints. If you grenade a front axle shaft U-Joint some times the ball joints will be destroyed by the yokes on the shafts to the point where you might loose the wheel. Only way out is to install Bal joints so having the tools and parts is a must.
    Enough oil for a oil change, enough Tranny fluid for a change and enough Gear oil for a change (btw Big J....where is my gear oil? <GRIN> Ric hit my up for my other quart at Dixie) You punch a hole in one of the covers and your dead in the water if you can't repair and refill. Same if you swamp out the engine with water. Need to have enough to run on if you have to drain out a case.
    Brake fluid is pretty self explaitory. Tearing a hose out is not un common but you can pinch the line off with vice grips and recover partial brakes if you got fluid to pump them.
    Something to carry drain oil in. I store stuff in big water proof amo boxes and if I have to drain a diff or engine I can do so into the box and haul it out for proper disposal instead of poluting.
    You name it I have seen it happen. Being prepared is what makes the differnce of spending a couple of hours stuck or a couple of days and walking out hitching a ride home for parts or gear. And ALWAYS have a spare belt(s) with you. You can drive witout an alternator and power steering but you can't drive long is the water pump isn't turning.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  10. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Grim, good point on the side pulls but I think any hook would do that. I have thought about doing a Mil-style set up with my chrome bumper. Good looks and function, got to love it. Sorry about the gear oil, I was going to bring you a qt. at Dixie. Unfortunatly my truck has gone from bad to worse. I have a nice red puddle under it now. I think its the front seal on the trans. Ever change one? Guesses on how big of a job? Anyway, if I get it to pass emissions this week I'll see you Sat. and have it with me. Thanks again, you saved my butt.
    Jim '80 GMC.

    It's a Wheelbase thing, You're Jeep wouldn't understand!
    http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com
     
  11. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well if it's just the converter seal it's a peice of cake to replace the seal once you got the tranny out. Not any thing different than say replacing a pinion seal. If you replace that seal it would be a good idea to replace the bushing that is behind the seal that the converter rides on and it again is pretty easy. If the leak is the front pump seal (thats what went on my 79, big oring around the pump) it's not all that bad but once you got the pump out you might as well pull the foward drum and check the band for wear. If it has some miles on it might be worth just rebuilding the whole thing. Parts total to rebuild that thing is about $125 including a book, rebuilt converter and cooler flush. It's not a bad job and really doesn't require any special tools just some creativity with a harmonic ballancer puller. Also have some Heli coils ready for the front pump bolts. I had to put 3 in mine. I want to say 3/8's but might be smaller I got a thrashed pump here (why I kept it I will never know) that I can check.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     

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