Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Red vs. Yellow Optimas

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dawson444, Apr 14, 2001.

  1. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,034
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Whats the differences and advantages of red top optimas and the yellow ones? Also who is running a high output alternator, and which one? Thanks!

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  2. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2001
    Posts:
    3,880
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wyoming
    Hey, there was a good article on how to inexpensively upgrade a altenator to a 140amp... Looked a lot cheaper...

    If you are interested in this information let me know and I will find which magazine it was in and the month etc...

    <font color=blue> Jeff </font color=blue>

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  3. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2000
    Posts:
    8,158
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA USA
    Right after you left the chat someone said the red is for starting/driving...your main battery just to use and the yellow is a deep cycle one....hope this helps you out? [​IMG]

    "Suck Fumes Ford Boy"
    "I love my country, I fear my government"
    "What if the hokey pokey is what it's all about?"
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Red is standard use, yellow is "deep cycle" but also suitable as a main battery (I am told), and blue is marine.
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm>http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm</A>

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  5. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    5,829
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Oregon
    As far as alternators go, I am running a 140 amp Wrangler NW Products unit............have had it for over 3 years now and never a problem............running off/on road lights, stereo, air conditioning, and now a winch............very happy with it.

    '79 - 406 TPI -<font color=orange> K5#5 - <font color=blue>See it at---&gt;<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com>http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com
     
  6. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2000
    Posts:
    978
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    upstate NY(although I cant figure out why)
    OK whats the difference between the Red "classic" and the new red?

    "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
    Luke
    84 K5 [​IMG]
     
  7. Hathaway

    Hathaway 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2001
    Posts:
    295
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Missoula Montana
    Check the CCA (cold cranking amps) ratings on the batteries. Easiest way to tell the difference. You can use Yellows as starter batteries. But thats better suited for a Red top. My perfect set up would be a red top for starter, and a yellow top as a secondary battery for stereo, winch, blah blah blah.

    Dan, '86 K5, 5.0L v8, NP208, TH700R4, open 10bolts front and rear, 3.43gearing, K&N filter, 31x10.50R15 Trailhandlers
     
  8. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2001
    Posts:
    3,729
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Clearfield Ut.
    Cavalry
    I think the new red top is just smaller and lighter than the classic, same out-put.

    Twiztid


    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Twiztid on 04/15/01 10:16 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  9. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,034
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    So would the ideal set up be to get one red optima and one yellow for a dual battery set up, or would it be better to get 2 reds or 2 yellows? Thanks!

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  10. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2001
    Posts:
    3,729
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Clearfield Ut.
    One of each I would think, red for O.E. wireing (starting, lights, etc) yellow for A.M. add-ons (winch, lights, stereo) But that would require dual alt. and dual pos leads, beacause there might be a campatability issue (I think). One battery would drain the other if they are hooked togather and the engine was not running (chargeing).

    You might be able to run a Ford like starter cyl and link both pos. leads togather. So when the ignition is turned to "run" position or manualy switched, both batterys would be used only when needed and eliminate a compatibility drain problem and the need for dual alt. Also simplify wireing. As an added bonus you would have a on board "jump" starter if one battery were to "give it up".Only problem with a Ford starter cylinoid is that they are for intermitant use and will burn them selves up if used continusly. So if you could find a continuse duty, high amp cylinoid. Wire it into both pos. leads, Use a manual switch. It would work with little hassels (I plan on doing this, soon. Unless someone else has a bettery idea)

    Anyone else?

    Twiztid
     
  11. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2000
    Posts:
    978
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    upstate NY(although I cant figure out why)
    My RV uses a regular batt for the truck functions and and a deep cycle for the RV stuff. I think all you need is an isolator for the charging system.

    "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
    Luke
    84 K5 [​IMG]
     
  12. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2000
    Posts:
    978
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    upstate NY(although I cant figure out why)
    Ther are alos a few companies that make a system that isolates the systems but you can switch it so the draw is on a particuar batt, jump one batt off the other, or have both to start...the name of it escaped me though....4 in 1 or something like that?

    "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
    Luke
    84 K5 [​IMG]
     
  13. James90

    James90 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 18, 2000
    Posts:
    986
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rocky Mount NC
    The one I want is the hellroaring isolater take a look at it it is a real mean set up

    http://www.trailblazer90.coloradok5.com
     
  14. Gandolf

    Gandolf 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2000
    Posts:
    764
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    The red top is designed for a quick burst of power for a short time duration so that's why it's best use is starting and normal vehicle duty. It should not be deep discharged or it will sustain internal damage. The yellow top is a deep cycle battery so it's designed for long, slow discharge and is ideal for use with lights, winches, stereos, DC TV's, inverters, etc. It can be deep discharged without internal damage to the battery. You can run a single alternator system with both types of batteries, but because the the different batteries charge and discharge at different rates, they must be isolated from each other or one battery will cause damage to the other. They should NEVER be hooked together in parallel (or series). If they were, it would seem at first like it works but one or both batteries would soon fail after a few months. The best and most trouble free isolator is the Hellroaring Isolator that was mentioned in a previous post.

    Alternators can be upgraded. The alternator in my K5 quit working a couple of weeks ago so I had my auto parts guy look-up the largest amp rated alternater that would bolt into my stock bracket. The highest amp that would fit was 125 amps, but it were out of stock, so I settled for one rated at 105 amps (it came with a test spec sheet that said it maxed out at 125 amps when tested). The price ($98) was the same as the 65 amp I replaced, so there was no extra cost to upgrade. My new alternator is a quality rebuild with a lifetime guarantee. You can go to more amps but the size of the alternator will be larger, and new brackets plus heavier duty wiring will be necessary.


    '89 K5 Silverado..."You can’t have a real adventure, unless the outcome is truly uncertain".
     
  15. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,034
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    If I was going to run one single battery, do your guys think it would be better to get a yellow top or red top? Thanks!

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  16. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2000
    Posts:
    9,206
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    abcde
    I would go with the red top, I've had mine for 6 months now and no problems

    Murphy's Laws on Life :
    "It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry."
     
  17. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2000
    Posts:
    1,034
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Anyone running a single yellow top in their truck?

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  18. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2000
    Posts:
    3,459
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mustang, Oklahoma
    Yep. I've been running a single yellow top for almost a year now with no problems. It starts up my K5 with just a bump of the key. No problems with all my accesories. It sat for 2 monthes when the K5 was down and fired the motor right up like it never sat. I can jump start other vehicles without my vehicle running. I can leave all 13 of my lights on for over an hour before they start to dim. Just last saturday my wife and I went out to eat and I left the headlights on, I had no problems cranking over the motor.
    I would recommend the yellow top 5 to 1 over the red top. Have had both and both are great but I like the extra grunt of the yellow top. Any ?'s just ask.

    Michael

    <font color=blue>Professional <font color=red>JEEP EATER</font color=red> it's a population control thing.</font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  19. xtreme_wlr

    xtreme_wlr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2001
    Posts:
    103
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    I run a single yellow aswell without any problems. Had it in there for over a year now.

    '78 Chevy 1 ton Stepside RockCrawler
    468 BB, SM465, NP205
    D60 front, GM 14Bolt rear w/ Detroit
     
  20. kpanza

    kpanza 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2000
    Posts:
    1,579
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lake Forest, Orange County, California
    As far as alternators go, I just recently got a Powermaster 140 amp alternator here at work and I love it! It bolts right up to the stock brackets, you don't change anything. I swapped the old for the new in about 10 minutes, it was a piece of cake. Powermaster tests each one before they leave the factory, and they include a test sheet for your particular alternator performance - mine tested at 156 amps at 2400 rpm, and 90 at idle (750 rpm)!!!! They are very reasonably priced for that performance also. I don't have them up on the web site yet, but we sell these pretty frequently here. If anyone's interested, I have been hooking up fellow K5ers with deals here a lot lately, shoot me an email at keith@autoaccessory.com and I will see what I can do for you guys!

    Keith
     

Share This Page