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Rediculous Steering wheel shake

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by K5on38s, Dec 18, 2002.

  1. K5on38s

    K5on38s Registered Member

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    Ok, i just had my 38x16x15 tires mounted on my 89 k5 blazer with 6" lift today. i drove about 20-30 minutes at 55-65mph with the usually shake and vibration....i get to my street, make aright hand turn...and when i hit 30mph the steering wheel (alond with the whole front end started jumping left to right VIOLENTLY.....i replaced the drag link ends and checked the steering stabilizer. everything seem tight, i jacked it up and looked for and slack. and the only slack i found was in the steering box and in the Drag link...and like i said i replaced the drag link ends.......what could it be????!?!?! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Welcome to the world of Death Wobble. Do a search on it, there are many many possible solutions, but no sure one. </font color>
     
  3. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    sounds like a good masage, I'll probably have the same prob
    when I get my stuff out of the driveway. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  4. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Most will agree that any combination of loose joints, weak stablaizer, or perhaps even a cracked frame at the steering box can allow Death Wobble to start up. Those 38's (run them myself) don't balance very well, are not dampened from the tread to the rim and all it takes is one good bounce at the right time to start a harmonic disturbance which will feed iteslf on the items stated above.
     
  5. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Try dual stabalizers. It helped mine. Mine turned out to be a wheel bearing going bad and a cracked frame behind the steering box. Good luck.
     
  6. monte0172

    monte0172 1/2 ton status

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    Hydro assist is the best solution i have found so far. I have several friends who use it and it worked for theirs no matter chevy dodge ford(YUCK) etc.
     
  7. SAVAGE1

    SAVAGE1 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going through the same thing myself, just went 1 Ton on 42's. If everythings tight i.e. rod ends, spring/shackle busings, also check your alignment and caster angle. Are you running angle shims? I'll probably throw in some 4* shims on my 6" springs.
     
  8. K5on38s

    K5on38s Registered Member

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    yes it has been shim'd...how much i dont know, i bought it w/ the lift, and im workin off that
     
  9. K5on38s

    K5on38s Registered Member

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    i searched "Rock Ram" on lycos and i came acroso asight that'll rebiuld my steering box, put the fittins in it, give me the hydro lines/brackets, and cylinder for 450.....To good to be true?
     
  10. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    And if you pay the 25 bucks to be a member here, you only pay 390 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> That would probably be West Texas Off-Road's Hydro system, and yes, that is probably the best deal on the market right now for hydro assist. Ilike Iceman said, pay for your membership on CK5 so you can get a discount from them, you'll save money in the long run. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif </font color>
     
  12. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    One thing you should look at that many people overlook after a lift install is the drag-link angle. When you install a lift, you screw with the steering geometry and put a huge bind on your drag link with a big angle.

    Take a look at the driver side of your truck under the front wheel well. You should be able to see your steering box. There is a pitman arm attached to the output shaft of your steering box and attached to the pitman arm is a drag link that I bet is at a pretty good angle from the front to back of your truck. The drag link is then connected to the steering arm on your driver side knuckle by the wheel. This big angle is asking for trouble - bump-steer, shaking, cracking the frame, etc.

    There are a few ways to reduce this angle. You can buy a lowered pitman arm or a raised steering arm or both depending on how much lift you have. You can get a 4" raised steering arm for a 4" lift and add a 2" drop pitman arm for a 6" lift. Your goal is to bring the drag link back to a somewhat horizontal attitude. This will cure the death wobble assuming all of the joints are tight. Adding a dual steering dampner only treats the symptoms - you need to cure the problem.

    Take a look under your truck and see if this is not the case.

    ____________
     
  13. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    One more thing - most of the Lift Kit vendors will tell you that you don't need to worry about a adding a dropped pitman arm for a 2" or 2-1/2" lift. This is NOT true. The 2" lift puts the drag-link at a really bad angle and while you may not notice the side effects right away, it puts your steering linkage in a major bind (especially the drag link) and will lead to a lot of the problems you read about on this board - cracked frames, death wobble, bump steer, etc.

    ____________
     
  14. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    I would have to agree with the statement about using a dropped pitman arm or raised steering arm; even on a 2 1/2" lift.

    I have a 2 1/2" suspension lift, and didn't install a pitman arm or steering arm for over a year. When I finally installed a dropped pitman arm, all of my bumpsteer went away /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I couldn't believe the diffence in road manners after installing the dropped pitman arm.

    Thomas.
     

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