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Remote solenoid or Blanket?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Wheels, Oct 24, 2000.

  1. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    I took out the Blazer last night for a good romp, it's been raining here for the past 4 days. I needed gas and stopped at the station but I'm used to gas caps on the left side of the vehicle (other 3 Chevy's I own are that way). When I went to start it up to move it around to the other side, nothing. I know about the hot starter problem with headers and here I sit with my wife looking at me and saying "you're walking, not me". After about 5 minutes it started right up, filled 'er up and off into night we went. When I got home later, I tried to start it again and the same thing. Waited and it started. I was wondering what would be the best bet for a permanent fix to this situation (the starter, not the wife). I've heard blankets are better and I've heard remote solenoids are. I've also heard that the mini starters are the best bet. Any body have experience with either? I run a SBC with performance mods and Heddmans run into a dual 2 1/2 exhaust with a balance tube. Thanks.
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    My Jimmy with headers used to do this to me when I would stop at a store on the way to work. Running errands was always an adventure [​IMG]. I finally did the remote solenoid about a month ago, it works very well and was pretty simple and inexpensive to do. I don't have a heat sheild on my starter either, and it starts everytime hot or cold.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Here is how I understand it. It is a combination of the silnoid and the batt. cable getting hot! When the batt cable is live straightfrom the starter to the batt it will build up resistance while the temp rises. So when you trun the key to trip the hot sil. the cable cannot supply the amount of amps needed cuz the cable is hot and the resistance is up!
    SO a remote sil. is the way to go!! For get about shelid and very expensive starters, all you need is a F@$d silinoid about 16 bucks!!
    Now when you turn your key and everything down there is hot or warn the cable has no chance/time to build up resistance so the result is POWER vvveeeruuummmmm!! STarts every time now!! Go FOR it!!

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  4. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Wheels,

    Definately Remote Solenoid. They're really cheap. I think heat shields cost just as much and don't work. You can make your own for probably around $15 or get one from Summit for $25. I use to run into same problems as you. I also have Headers (Flowtech Afterburners), and I also wrapped them with Thermo Coolit wrap to keep the engine bay cooler and also protect the starter. I did this about a year ago. Anyways, about 8 months of driving I had no issues. But then it happened. No start and had to wait. The last time it happened I was at a gas station, like you, except I was with my brother, and sat there for like 30 minutes with no start. I was so PISSED! Anyways, long story short, I put on the remote and have had no problems since. Oh, and don't go the "wrapping the headers" route. It don't work and are a waste of money. Just an advice.
    Boss
    http://www.boss.coloradok5.com

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys. Looks like I'll either make a stop at the parts store tonight or pick up the Summit catalog and get a remote solenoid.
     
  6. sosamantx

    sosamantx 1/2 ton status

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  7. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    My starter is going and I just got the Summit remote solenoid last week, might as well do it all at once, I will let you know how it goes, should be fairly simple.

    [​IMG]
    5,000 Pounds of American Rolling Steel
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Yes it is very simple, I used an 8 gage jumper wire from the 'trigger' side of the sili. to the batt side(starter sili)Then run batt cable up to remote sili and take the old 'key' wire and put it on the termianl of the remote sili. Now the last part to connect the remote sili to the batt and your all set VVEERRRUMmmmmmmmmmmm erverytime!
    At the same time I upgraded to 2gage wire and HD terminals that I cut to length. I got the bulk wire and terms from a local batt store.


    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  9. talldogg

    talldogg 1/2 ton status

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    Sosaman,
    Thanks for the link. I checked it out and it seems pretty straight forward, I still have one question. The diagram shows the wiring and how it's routed through the coil, but how would this work with an HEI ignition system. Or would it work the same way? Thanks[​IMG]

    It's not what you buy, it's what you build!
     
  10. nyyef

    nyyef 1/2 ton status

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    i have tried the heat sheild. first it didnt fit properly (cant remember the brand), then after deforming it so much it didnt work if i was just on my truck all afternoon.
    i have used the summit remote soil. and it works great!! simple to hook up, and the best thing i can connect accesories much easier to a live connection without the battery looking like 'the thing' (have also put one on my 69 chevelle, fires every time!!).

    Knife.
    knife.coloradok5.com
     
  11. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    BTW- The summit remote solonoid kit comes with wires and terminals. It also has a formed piece of copper or brass metal that acts as the jumper which looks cleaner on the starter.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    http://www.off-road.com/chevy
     
  12. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for all the help guys, Sosaman thanks for the link. It was a cakewalk last night to put this on. Took me about an hour from start to finish. No more heat problems. Now to the next thing on the list.
     

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