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Removable doors question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by B_to_C, Mar 29, 2004.

  1. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    Been thinking about doing this for a while...
    So after i read THIS POST I decided to take the plunge

    I bought new bushings at the local checkers and then i headed off to the hardware store to pick up some 3/8 inch diameter rod to use as pins. but it was too large. I look at the bushing package and see the inside diameter is .35" (3/8 is .375") /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif ok, so I can't use 3/8" rod. But if i go one size down there is a bunch of room for the rod to move around inside the bushing (that's not a good thing right?) so we checked out metric sizes....same deal. 10mm is too big and 8mm is too small. I had to explain my situation to practically everyone in that darn store, finally getting to the "head" hardware guy. Still no luck.

    So when i get home i look at the back of the package again and see that the outside diameter of the bushing is 10mm....do i really NEED bushings? what if i use brass rod? am I being stupid and missing something really easy? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  2. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    Brass rod will be too soft and will bend likely. I just used to stock pins and drilled a hole in the end and installed cotter pins. But with electric windows and door locks it sure is a pain having to fish those damn wires back through. Trying to find some kind of connector I can install between the door and cab to make it much easier.
     
  3. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    use the replacement pis. Lightly grind the splines off the top so they can be pry'd out with a screw driver. Put the botom pin in like normal and the top pin in upside down (drill a hole in the end first for a cotter pin). For low amp wires (speakers/locks and such) use radio shack mini plug connectors (they come in many colors to keep the mixing of wires down to a minimum). That should do it. I put my speakers (6.5" round) in the kick panel so I have music with no doors /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    That should get it done.
     
  4. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Put the botom pin in like normal and the top pin in upside down (drill a hole in the end first for a cotter pin).

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ok, first off i thought the replacement pins wouldn't be long enough to have enough sticking out either top or bottom to drill a hole or have enough to pull up on to get it out. And what is the reasoning behind putting the top one in upside down? And wouldn't the bottom brass bushing fall out when the pin is out? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  5. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    My bushings have never fallen out. After an 80 lb door streches the bushing it is stuck pretty good. You have to put the top one in upside down or it will hit the fender when you try to remove it. I have a different pin design. I welded a small washer right next to the hole and run a cotter pin through it, that holds the flat spot on the door pin in place. I haven't had a problem yet.
     
  6. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Brass rod will be too soft and will bend likely. I just used to stock pins and drilled a hole in the end and installed cotter pins. But with electric windows and door locks it sure is a pain having to fish those damn wires back through. Trying to find some kind of connector I can install between the door and cab to make it much easier.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I remember seeing an episode of Trucks, or it may have been in a magazine, that had these neat little contacts that went between the door and the cab of a truck to hide speaker wiring in showtrucks. Basically it had two contact surfaces that would only touch when the door was closed, allowing your electronics to work, but when the door was open the circuit was broken.
     
  7. gjk5

    gjk5 3/4 ton status

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    I saw this door jamb connector, I believe it was in the LMC Truck catalog, but it does not look very watertight, so might not be so great for off road.

    It's the same kind of connector as on late model trucks, there is one on the back barn doors on my Tahoe.
     
  8. big jimmy 91

    big jimmy 91 1/2 ton status

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    Ford aerostar vans have the contact conectors on the large slide door (for pwr. locks)
    /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif the shame of owning a Ford lol
     
  9. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    m,ust be nice to live in a state where its legal to run without doors or other body panels removed,

    we junked an aerostar recently, didnt know about the slider door contacts deal, hmm i could have looked if i had known, hmm.
     
  10. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    Far as I know all I have to have in NC is a driver side mirror. Which I rigged up a nice big mirror head I picked up from advance auto for 7 bucks, its chrome too! Painless wiring actually makes those wireless connectors, just like the ones on the barn doors of burb and tahoes. I'm not worried about mixing up the wires since they are color coded themselves.
     

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