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removal of 14bff drum brakes

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 85burbanator, May 26, 2003.

  1. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    i did a search but found nothing. i was wondering how i take the drum brakes off of my 14 bff. also what parts did you guys/gals use when you did you disk brake conversions? thanx in advanse
    mike
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    you have to take the hub bolts off the hub, then remove the axle shaft, then remove the drums.....i used a-trons kits for my disc conversion /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. rock.monkey

    rock.monkey 1/2 ton status

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    1st you have to pull the axle shaft's(8 bolts)
    Once you have those out there are spindle nuts similar to the front. once you pull the axles out it's fairly obvious what you need to do.
     
  4. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    To take the drums off it has to be on jack stands, tires off. Pull the axle shafts out. The inside of a 14b hub is pretty much the same as a front hub, the pieces look a bit different but accomplish the same thing. The first thing you will see id a lock nut thing. You'll need a 14b hub socket like ya do for the front. Pull the nut off. There are actually two different ways that the 14b hubs are put together. On mine, there is a hub nut, then behind that, a funny lookin star washer thing with little tabs that ya bend into the notches on the outter hub nut. If you have this style, be sure to bend the tab out of the notch before ya try to spin the nut off. after ya get that first nut and washer thing off, there is another nut. Take that one out, should be a washer behind that. The drum should pull off now. Might have a little trouble if it is worn enuff that theres a ridge on the inside of the drum from the shoes. Worse case senario, if it won't come right off, U'll have to back off the adjuster from the back side. The other style, IIRC has one hub nut and a small piece of key stock that fits in the notch on the spindle and goes through the notch on the nut to lock it in place. Ya might have to spin the nut alittle bit in either direction to take the pressure off the key. Ya should be able to grab it and pull it out with a pair of pliers. Pretty simple really.

    Doing the disc conversion on mine as we speak. You'll need a set of brackets. Pretty easy to find on here. Just do a search. $70-100. You'll need a set of 3/4 ton rotors. $24.99 ea at Autozone. You'll need new wheel studs if your old ones aren't reuseable. $2.49 ea at Autozone. One thing you might have to do is grind down the heads of the wheels studs so the'll sit in the recess in the back of the rotor. The recess is only 1" and the head of the wheel stud is like 1.250". I did mine on a bench grinder. Took forever and made my fingers sore as hell, but it worked. If ya have access to a lathe, it would be way easier. You'll need calipers, I just ordered a set of loaded calipers for a 3/4 4x4- $59 a pair from Autozone with a $27 core. You'll need longer bolts to hold the bracket and spacers to the flange on the housing. 2"x1/2" fine thread grade 8. I thnk they were like $1.40 ea at the True Value hardware in town. You'll also need 2 rubber lines to connect your hard lines to the caliper. I haven't got these yet so I can't help much on those.
     
  5. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    One thing you might have to do is grind down the heads of the wheels studs so the'll sit in the recess in the back of the rotor. The recess is only 1" and the head of the wheel stud is like 1.250". I did mine on a bench grinder. Took forever and made my fingers sore as hell, but it worked

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Why did you have to do this, mine had plenty of clearance.
     
  6. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    You'll need a 14b hub socket like ya do for the front. Pull the nut off. There are actually two different ways that the 14b hubs are put together. On mine, there is a hub nut, then behind that, a funny lookin star washer thing with little tabs that ya bend into the notches on the outter hub nut. If you have this style, be sure to bend the tab out of the notch before ya try to spin the nut off. after ya get that first nut and washer thing off, there is another nut. Take that one out, should be a washer behind that. The drum should pull off now. Might have a little trouble if it is worn enuff that theres a ridge on the inside of the drum from the shoes. Worse case senario, if it won't come right off, U'll have to back off the adjuster from the back side.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    sweet i have that style. i have a spindle nut socket for the front 10 bolt but not the rear 14 bolt. were can i pick one of those up? thanx for the info /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif kidjethro
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Why did you have to do this, mine had plenty of clearance.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Well, like I said, the head of the wheel stud was too big to fit in the machined recess on the back of the rotor. I used new 14b rear wheel studs. You said you bought a kit.....Did it come with studs? What application where the studs you used for? If there is an application that will fit without grinding or modifying, it would be nice to know. If you bought yours as a kit.....maybe they were already modified.
     
  8. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    sweet i have that style. i have a spindle nut socket for the front 10 bolt but not the rear 14 bolt. were can i pick one of those up? thanx for the info kidjethro



    [/ QUOTE ]

    You should beable to get the hub socket you need at Napa. And your welcome. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  9. SF87K5

    SF87K5 1/2 ton status

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  10. CJ_Shark

    CJ_Shark Registered Member

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    I second the A-Tron kit, it made putting Disks on my 14 bolt a snap

    Pics can be found here

    I found A-Tron from here.....thanks for the tip guys
     
  11. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    did any of yall have probs getting te 4 bolts out that hold th pate to the axle shaft? ive been working on itfor hours and they wont budge. went through half a can of penetrating oil and nothing. used a 1 1/2 foot long breaking bar nothing, hit the bar with an 8 lb. sledg hammer and still nothing. ive even used an electric impact wrench thing on it and it still wouldnt loosen them up, and ive seen it get out some pretty rusty, stuck bolts bolts.
     
  12. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    also none ofthe links for a-tron are working for me. are they part of the echobit thing?
     
  13. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    When i got my rotors, i got just the rotors, i reused the stock 14FF lug studs that held on the drum and pressed them right back in to hold the rotor on....could it maybe to who made the rotors that made the difference?
     
  14. 45acpJr

    45acpJr 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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  15. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    What application were the rotors you ordered? I just used '77 K20 as my app. I think I would take a look at yours. Could be a chance that they actually are not seated all the way to the rotor and you don't know it. Worth checking out.
     
  16. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    My axles are came off a 74 K20 burb, so that was the rotors that i ordered, 74 K20 rotors. Still think its got to do with who made the rotors and how they machined the stud mating surface.
     
  17. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    are the calipers and rotors you guys are ordering for the front or are they designed for the rear?
     
  18. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    just standard stock front rotors and calipers....unless your going with the caddy calipers
     

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