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Removing a rear quarter panel question

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Lazydog, Jun 7, 2002.

  1. Lazydog

    Lazydog 1/2 ton status

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    Anyone ever remove the rear quarterpanel from a Blazer/Jimmy. I need to fix a dent and thought it might be easier and better than trying to pull, and fill with bondo.
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    It's a royal pain in the a$$. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif. It's spot welded all along the edge that meets the door and back where it meets the tailpan. The rectangular upright near the taligate is welded to the floor. If it's a '76 or later, it also is welded to the upper part of the steel cab. It is a pretty big chore to remove and replace one.
     
  3. Lazydog

    Lazydog 1/2 ton status

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    Have you ever welded in a patch panel? I thought of that but wasn't sure how strong it would be.
     
  4. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I need to get the same thing done...someone backed into my rear quarter last week and messed it up pretty bad...he's paying though.
     
  5. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Harry! Well first of, you're going to have to find a fella like Harry with those panels. They're about as rare as a Ford that hasn't shorted out and burned to the ground, /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif . I tried buying new ones and they no longer exist! Everything is on back order in hopes the greedy turds will have enough orders backed up to make more $$$. I was making some progress with certi-fit, but I scored a smooth deal on a set Harry had.

    Well, it can be done! Check out Eastwood , they sell special bits for taking out spot welds. This is well worth the investment. Open the door and you'll a whole strip of spot welds in the front. Look on the lip of the wheel housing, even more. The front bottom of the lip won't have any, just that bolted on support rod. The bottom back part of the lip will have a couple. Then look at the body gap between the quarter and tailgate, next to that will also a strip of them (by the tail light, they will run almost the entire length.) Go inside and take off your trim panel of the backside of the quarter. The top of that area in there has some running the whole length. Take off your hard top and look right where the quarter meets that cab, there's a little flap with 2-3 welds. When you finally get all of them off, you have to pick on the rear of the panel until its vertical, then pull back. There's some kinda lip crap up front by the cab and you have to do that. I did it in one evening, but my Blazer is fully gutted because I'm restoring it.
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Hey Jon! Are you ever going to get those things installed? How about some pics of the progress? /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  7. Lazydog

    Lazydog 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, so after all the spot welds are drilled out do you have to pry apart the inner and outer panels? It looks like the top overlaps at the rear of the doorframe. How do you get it out from underneath there? It seems like it won't be that bad.

    Goodmark is advertising the panel I need. They say it's like factory original. $300.00. Cheaper than the Body Shop, $800.00. I know a couple of guys that part out old trucks, they may have the panel I need also.
     
  8. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    I forgot two places... Take off the tail light and look in there. Also look at the top of the tailgate post around by the latch, there are two little welds, looks more like a regular weld than a spot. All you have to do by the back of the cab is drill those welds out of that little flap and pick up on the rear of the panel until its vertical and pull back. As long as the welds are broke, it will come off very easy. One little weld stuck will holds up everything. I bust a weld after drilling by sticking a pry bar in there and pull, this seems to make the next weld down the line stick out more and makes sure the weld you drilled is free. When you get this all done, just go along with a MIG welder and fill up the holes and grind them smooth.
     
  9. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    No pics yet /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif . The Blazer is still the same shape as it was in the winter. I did that motor swap in that '89 S-10 I was talking about so the sanding and spraying is all ready paid for. Just have to wait for the painter to get done with this project for my uncle, its a '90 4-door chevy truck. Hey Harry, got any rear doors off a 4-door or suburban, haha.
     
  10. Lazydog

    Lazydog 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the great Information. I was looking at the Jimmy today and it looks like all I need to do is drill out the welds. I just have one final question--Would you pull the panel off or try and fill in the dent? I can't afford to have a Body Shop fix it, and the Fender is a little crunched for my expereince. Thanks again
     
  11. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Do you have any pics? If I know what you're working with, then I'd have a clear idea. It may not be too bad, then again it may be horrific /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif. If you were going to work with what you had, you'd need a fancy dent puller. We've got this giganitic 110v stud welder up at the shop. You sand down to bare metal and pop a stud into the gun and press where you pull the dent. Hit the trigger for a sec, and bingo, instant stud. Then you put a slide hammer over that and pull out the dents. A little hammering and you can get things relatively smooth and keep the filler to a minimum. A new panel may be easier and you can undercoat EVERYTHING with it off. Just be sure to have that new panel in hand before you even pick up a drill to take out the welds. Good Luck /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    (P.S. Click on the link below and go to the "Trucks" section, then what the Blazer looks like now. There's a picture of my Blazer with no panel in there.)
     

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