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Removing doors, making a lip, and making a kill switch info here *pics*

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BranndonC, Jun 9, 2004.

  1. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    Ok i've gotten a couple PM's reguarding removing the doors and my mirrors, so i took some pics just to help anyone else thinking about doing something like this
    ok first off, it just takes 6 bolts to remove each door, and to cut all the wires going to the door if its power, its pretty heavy but one guy can do it alone.

    Heres a pic where you can see the bolt holes on the hinges, the mirror, and the wires i cut, you can also see the tin i lined the door with, it was in a roll at home depot and is 6 inches tall, with 2 inches folded flat for screws, i also just lined the top of it with electrical tape so it wouldnt cut anyone
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    with any truck that has TBI i believe you can install a simple kill switch that wont let the truck start if its not switched on, to do this look at your fuse panel, remove the one that says ECMB it something like that, then insert a wire into where the fuse was (one in each metal reciever) run the wires to a switch and mount it where you want, heres where i did mine
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  2. DBLAZER

    DBLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    Your sideways rollercoaster pics are making me dizzzyyyyy!!
     
  3. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    yeah i didnt feel like rotating them, but they get the point across /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  4. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Well, at least they're not 1400ft x 1400ft /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
     
  5. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    Pics are great /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  6. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    you can put a kill switch on anything with a distributor, just splice into the 12V line going to the coil, put a switch on it and bam no more power. Some high end ignition setups could keep on running but thats their problem /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. You shall see when I post pictures of how my K5 will be wired, won't be "pretty" by somes standards but so simple and happy to me.
     
  7. Resurrection_Joe

    Resurrection_Joe 1 ton status

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    You can also wire in an inline fuse to replace the one you bypassed
     
  8. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    i will put an inline fuse today probably, thanks, i forgot to mention that
     
  9. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Is the kill switch for anti theft? If so i'd mount it somewhere a bit more hidden.

    Is that the hot wire for your coil? Only thing i can see maybe being an issue is if you just ran 5 more feet of wire from the fuse box, under the seat to the switch, then back out to the coil.. thats going to be some added resistance, so hopefully it is thick gauge wire to make up for the length so theres no voltage drop.

    Instead of switching the hot for the coil, you could splice in a connector for your tach, (the - wire from the coil) and unplug it from your tach and plug it into a ground when you leave your truck.. grounded - side of the coil won't start..
     
  10. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

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    Ryan is right on the nose.Grounding the "tach" wire is a much safer way of killing the power to the distributor...That's what I've done.
    I run an alligator clip to just about ANY ground source and all the truck will do is turn over,it will NEVER start with the tach wire grounded.

    Another prob. with puting an "on/off" switch to the ECM is that everytime you switch the toggle off you cut power to the ECM...this erases all data stored.
    Meaning all the "learning" it has done and all the adjustments it has made will be erased and you start from scratch each time.

    Just a thought.

    Running without the doors must be COOL! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    Oh ya...don't be a lazy f#ck and fix the pic's /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  11. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Bob... Thanks for pointing that out about erasing the memory in the ecm.. I've thought about that before but forgot why that wouldn't be a good idea. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  12. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    k so i'll re route it to the tach wire then, thanks guys /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  13. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I'll just point out the obvious..
    You had the + wire going through the switch, so in the off position its opening the circuit preventing 12v from reaching the coil...
    If you hook up the - wire through the switch, you'll want to hook the other side of the switch to ground, and then it will need to be in the off position opening the circuit while you drive. The on position will close the circuit, grounding the coil.
    I'm sure you'll figure it out.
    /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    See you at blazerfest? /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  14. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    could run a 3 way switch, one sending the - to its normal location, another to the ground. For me + will work well. I am going to be running rear mounted battery with a race car style wiring system. Namely, one heavy wire to starter, pushbutton starter actuator, and very limited wiring otherwise. Likely only other wires will be coil, alternator wiring, and maybe some off road lights. Will work well for my trail use application, and so much easier. Gonna try and leave most of the stock stuff in there, just out of the way, don't want to be that horrible previous owner /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Also in a no oil pressure situation I can shut it down and try cranking the motor without firing to regain oil pressure before I go again.
     

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