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Removing front fenders....

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by stallion85, Feb 5, 2006.

  1. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    What would stop me from doing this? I would keep the stock hood and leave the core support to the radiator, but narrow the hood from the hinges down the the ends of the radiator. Who has done this and does it cause a lot of flex in the front end of the body?
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    They flex enough with the whole shebang already on there :wink1:
     
  3. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    That's what I was thiking.....just wanted to hear from those that have done it, if they had run into any probs...
     
  4. jays68yak

    jays68yak 1/2 ton status

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    How do you plan to brace the rad support? With out the fenders it would just flop around. Also if you just ran the hood and radiator with out any support its going to bend a twist and your fan will eat your radiator. At the least youll need tube or something coming off the firewall to keep everything where it should be. Unless you have a newer blazer your hinges are bolted to the fender?
     
  5. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    You are right about the hinges, I just looked at it and I see what you are saying. I will have to get some tube and bend it up. Still shouldn't be too tough.
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    The hood hinges themselves , on 80's trucks like ours, are on the cowl . The SPRINGS are on the fender .

    So perhaps some tube down the sides , over the radiator , and tie it in to your cage and sliders .

    Mount the springs to the tube .

    Or skin it , pin it , get a prop made , and forget about the springs .
     
  7. DougK20

    DougK20 1/2 ton status

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    Worked good for me. I have no braces anywhere and the hood springs are not needed (just use a stick). The front end does flex a bit more, but not enough to hit the fan. I still use the hood release cable and latch. That assembly is tight enough to keep the rad from floppin' around. I've had no problems with it.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. DougK20

    DougK20 1/2 ton status

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    another
    [​IMG]
     
  9. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Sweet! That is exactly what I wanted, thanks
     
  10. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I did it and could not stand how much is wiggled. Layed tube and was done with the wiggling. My sig has pics of the fenders, fenders with tube, and now just tube.

    Admit it Jeff, you have a white K5, now all you need is 6 more months of wheeling, a tube bender, and a can of blue paint and our rigs will be twins :D.
     
  11. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    LOL....I wish my rig could look like yours! I am going to 37" MTR's.....still not 40's but hey with a D44 that is as high as I can go:)
     
  12. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Oh ya, you need to put some new pic's in your gallery Matt...:)
     
  13. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    40's are over rated. I got them for 3 main reasons. I had to justify the D60, it was past the 40% mark on the 37's, and I work at a tire shop and get them for cheap. (oh, that plus the only guy I wanted to sell them to was moving up north never to be seen again). I ran 37's for 2 years before that and loved them.

    Narrowing the front will make it so much easier to pick a line it isn't even describable. I turns you rig into a really big quad.
     

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