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Removing Hardtop

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SlyDog, Aug 17, 2001.

  1. SlyDog

    SlyDog 1/2 ton status

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    Well I am not going to wait on this any longer [​IMG] I got the K5 today and tomorow the roof is going off ! Do I just remove the 4 bolts on each side and the 1 that is going into the door frame ? {its a 77}

    Paul a.k.a. Paulie a.k.a. Juan Valdez, take your pick ! [​IMG]
     
  2. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    I am not sure how many bolts there are but all you need to do is remove the bolts on each side and then some more in the back of the cab.

    Adam
     
  3. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Make sure to pull the ground strap behind the driver's door (underneath the little coverplate). I don't remember if a 77 has the little bolts hanging upsidedown, so check before you give yourself a hernia.

    Dos mas Tecates!!!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>pugsley.alloffroad.com</a>
     
  4. Jonathan

    Jonathan 1/2 ton status

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    Mine has 5 on each side and 6 at the front. But ya just remove all the bolts you see and then there is 2 more hidden bolts at the rear by the tail gait, look under the bed rails and you should see them if they are still there mine were already gone when I got it.

    77 Blazer, 350, NP203, K&N, 31-inch Cooper Discoverers
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/jonathandwill>http://community.webshots.com/user/jonathandwill</a>
     
  5. SlyDog

    SlyDog 1/2 ton status

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    Ok thanks guys ! You can all expect alot more questions in the near future [​IMG]

    Paul a.k.a. Paulie a.k.a. Juan Valdez, take your pick ! [​IMG]
     
  6. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    And if the top hasen't been removed before you are probably going to tear the seals, but don't worry about that, they are only $30 each (inner and outer) and probably need to be replaced anyway.
     
  7. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    A '77 shouldn't have the hidden bolts. It will have two guide pins at the rear. Leave those in, they will aid you in putting the top back on at the end of the season. Don't forget the plug for the light and the bolt that holds the tire carrier in. If you take it off &amp; on a lot, you will wear out the trim rails so put some washers under the bolt heads when you put it back on.

    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
    Tread Lightly!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com>www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  8. delta9blazer

    delta9blazer 1/2 ton status

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    here's a write-up i did for CK5. it's about finished, i just need to take some pics and shoot it to steve.
    you might be able to skip the first step, if there aren't any hidden bolts on the early models.

    BLAZER TOP REMOVAL


    Arguably, the best feature of the Chevrolet Blazer is the removable top. Increased field of vision, quicker acceleration, the wind in your hair…
    But first, you have to take the top off.
    Attachment hardware will vary, depending on the year of your truck, and previous owners. Most trucks will have standard hex head, while later models used torx bolts. The torx / security bolts need not be reused; many replace theirs with the hex head bolts, to simplify tool requirements.

    Tools needed:
    Torx driver, or bit
    Driver for said torx bit
    Phillips screwdriver (for interior panels)
    Adjustable wrench, or end wrenches, or socket set, or whatever
    Tools That Help, But You Don’t Need:
    (2) 2x4 approximately 6’ long
    beer

    Open fridge, remove beer. Slowly consume beer while contemplating job at hand. Take a moment to reflect on how tough your truck really is. Pat her on the side, and say something nice.
    Roll the rear window all the way down. Remove screws from interior side panels @ tailgate. Remove screws all the way to the wheel well hump. Do not lose these little guys. Pull the panels away from the wall. There are bolts attaching the top that must be removed from inside the fender walls. These bolts do not need to be replaced. There is also a guide pin that can be removed at the same time. Again, it is unnecessary to re-use these, as it slows down the R&amp;R process. Replace the panel and retaining screws.
    Optional beer at this point.
    Start with the bolts on the rail, either side. Loosen the bolts in a criss-crossing patter, to avoid undue stress on one side of the seal or the other. When rail bolts are loose, but not removed, loosen bulkhead bolts. Remove all bolts, set somewhere safe. Remove rail trim, store somewhere safe. Remember, you’re drinking beer.
    On the driver’s side, on the lower portion of the bulkhead, is an access panel. Remove one screw, loosen the other one. Inside is the electrical connection for the interior light @ the rear of the topper. Disconnect said connector. After top removal, you can tuck the loose end behind the interior panel.
    Optional beer at this point.
    We’re now ready to go topless. The actual removal method will depend on your particular circumstances; from neighbors, to pulleys in your garage, to the forklift at work. Since I utilize the co-worker method, I’ll describe that one, and then touch on the other methods I’m aware of.
    With all bolts removed, flip rear seat all the way forward (for owners of older Blazers, ha ha! your seat doesn’t flip up!). Open sliding windows, if you have ‘em. If your top has the solid window on the sides, do not open them. This will jeopardize the window’s ability to function. Crouching on the rear floor, raise up until your back touches the roof. Slowly try to lift the top. You’re not trying to do it yourself, just breaking the seal. You’ll hear the seal break, and feel it. Once the top is removed, subsequent removals are far easier. If the top’s never been off the truck, expect some resistance.
    OK. Two people on each side is what you need, three would be better. The number of people helping will be proportional to the amount of available free beer, so plan ahead. One per side is for studs and weight lifters. The top isn’t exactly heavy, but its size makes it very ungainly. I suppose the top could be removed by one person, but you’d feel it the next day. And the day after that, too. Billy, don’t be a hero. Get some help. Or more beer.
    With the tailgate closed, lift the rear of the top a couple of inches, enough room to slip one of the two-by-fours in there. Using the gap that this creates, lift top enough to position the second tubafer towards the front. Get yer buddies in place on the ends, and lift away.
    Other methods mentioned are a forklift, which I use at work occasionally; or a pulley system on a ceiling. Using the same 2x4’s, mount eyebolts on the ends, and attach to ropes or cables. Solidly mount some pulleys (or eyebolts) to the ceiling of your garage, slightly wider and longer than the top, and these can be used to raise or lower the top. You can also use this for storage. Assuming, of course, that you have a garage, and your garage is tall enough to fit your monster of a truck.
    I’m actually toying with the idea of using an electric garage door opener to power a top-removal system. With some unobtrusive contact points on the top itself, this could easily be a one-man, ten minute operation.
    Once the top is off, storage is the main concern. It is widely believed that keeping the top in its flat position is best. I’ll not argue the point, but there are people who say they keep their top leaning against the barn out back, with no ill effects. I keep mine flat at work, where we have virtually unlimited floor space.
    If you have the headroom, securing it to the ceiling of your garage is ideal. Barring that, a couple of saw-horses will support the 2x4’s holding the top. Add a few more 2x4’s for safety, throw a tarp over it, and voila, your kids have the best clubhouse in town.


    BLAZER TOP INSTALLATION


    Summer’s over, the kids are get frostbite every morning, and the wife refuses to have her hair messed up one more time.. All good things must come to an end, so the top goes back on. Installation is basically the reverse of removal, with some notable caveats.
    When positioning the top onto the truck, take care not to snag the seal on anything, or pinch or roll it between the truck and top. Once the top is in place, insert and finger tighten all bolts. Reattach electrical connection.
    I usually roll the rear window up at this point, to verify alignment. If the fit is good, roll the window back down, and begin final attachment procedure.
    Pod bay doors closed, HAL.
    TIGHTEN BULKHEAD (HEADER) BOLTS FIRST!! This will insure a water tight seal across the top of the truck. After bulkhead is secured, tighten rail bolts in a criss-cross pattern.
    Open fridge, remove beer. Slowly consume beer while admiring job well done.
    Now, about that lift…


    <font color=purple>delta9blazer</font color=purple>
     

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