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removing the dashboard

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by coincidentally, Apr 13, 2002.

  1. coincidentally

    coincidentally Registered Member

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    Hey, I am in the process of "redesigning" the dashboard on my K10 blazer. i'm taking out the entire metal dashboard, so far it looks like it is held on by like 4 bolts. 2 on the drivers side, 2 on the passenger side, and then there is this long lip that goes from passenger to drivers side. I unbolted the 4 bolts, and the sides/bottom of the dash is now all loose, but it wont budge. It looks like that lip goes into the weather stripping on the bottom of the windshield.

    has anyone else attempted this? or know the correct way to take it out? I dont want to accidentally loosen the windshield or something...
     
  2. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    It is welded along the front. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  3. juanblzer

    juanblzer 1/2 ton status

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    I just did this.
    I would pop out the windshield (its really easy) and then cut it out. You could also try to use sheet metal shears. I used a pair of tin snips and cut out the whole dash. Then I used a cut off wheel and trimmed it down. I'll have pics up soon of my new dash. Wiring is another issue. What a $%#ken pain in the goat ass.
     
  4. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i plan on doing the same thing. but i am going to get a painless wiring harness. this way i can get out some of the wires that need replaced, add more fuse slots, and customize my lighting system.
    grant
     
  5. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    I would try to trim the leading edge (under the windshield) and leave about a 1" wide strip. It will make it much easier to attach your new dash. I used a 3" cut-off tool. I cut across each end of the defroster slots, then across to the speaker hole all the way to the other side. If you look at this shot of my dash, you can just see where the new "defroster" aluminum sits behind the crossbar. I attached this to the remaining lip that I had left from the old dash.
    http://jmartin.net/parker/wholedash.jpg
     
  6. lukerz

    lukerz 1/2 ton status

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    I pulled mine off. I did not remove my windshield. I damaged it during the dash removal. I recommend removal of the windshield if you use my method. I used my die grinder and ground down each weld spot until I could pry it loose. Kind of like using a can opener.I welded the dash back in place afterwards.
    Luke
     
  7. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I would not recommend a painless wiring harness. They do not use the correct gauge wire in their kits and they do not cover their hanesses like the factory, they only zip tie them together. I would try a wiring harness from Ron Francis wire works. These people make a great harness. They will cost more but you get what you pay for. I would not be cheap when it comes to your electrical system. A cheap system might either give you trouble or catch fire. Just my $.02
     
  8. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i have seen about 4 painless wiring kits and helped install 3 of them. i was very happy with them. i have not seen one for a chevy, but i have seen 2 scout II and a early bronco kit, along with a FJ40 kit. all were very nice. i can get some stuff from work to cover the wires, and the guages have always been the same if not heavier on the kits i have done.
    grant
     
  9. coincidentally

    coincidentally Registered Member

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    i thought about getting a painless/some other brand wiring harness, but decided I could probably just as put together a nice panel to put somewhere on the dash with some decent looking custom fuse block with switches for everything and lights on every fuse so you can tell if one blew (although that is usually pretty obvious)
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hmm...LED on the back of every fuse...thats possible, isn't it? Solder the leads right to the test terminals? Thats kinda neat lol. A little bit of work for a $.05 piece, but still neat idea. Any reason you couldn't run the correct amp circuit breaker on each instead of fuses in the first place? I'm assuming GM used circuit breakers only when they had to, so they could save money using fuses on everything else.
     
  11. coincidentally

    coincidentally Registered Member

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    I thought about using circuit breakers. but so far the only ones I have found are the normal 120volt home use ones.....

    anyone see any more nice looking automotive grade?
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I was under the impression that there are already a couple circuit breakers on the trucks. My terminology may be incorrect, but I think the purpose is the same...they "reset" themselves, though, instead of house ones that youhave to flip back on. IIRC, the door locks are on these too, I was messing around with my sticky locks one time, and thought I fried something, but later on, they were working fine, and have been ever since. I'm not sure where you'd come up with, say, a 3amp breaker, but I think the ones on the panel are 30, and I bet there are lower rated ones available.
     
  13. coincidentally

    coincidentally Registered Member

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    I think they do make auto-resetting circuit breakers, but the concept behind them kind of scare me. Mostly because they are there for a reason, so if there is too much current going through the wire, something bad must be happening. I know that at least in my own experience, this is usually because I was doing something dumb, like always refusing to disconnect the battery cable, but I think it would be nice to have a normal switch type circuit breaker panel , so at least then, when I do dumb things, I have the option to reset the circuit, but if something serious is wrong, I would still know
     
  14. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    They sell them in the fuse isle at kragen/pep girls/ etc and they will fit into a flush mount fuse terminal. I just used one on my sons plastic electric quad (after converting it 12 volt and 2wd from 1wd, snaps his head back now - he loves it) to sit in place of the normal fuse. Its cool be cause it resets itself after power to it has been removed (like the key or such) They come in many different amp ratings and some even have longer posts to clear inset holders. My sons would pop after running up long hills or in heavy grass.
     
  15. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    Man....you guys sure hijacked this thread....;)
     
  16. BASSMAN

    BASSMAN Registered Member

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    Just for info you can find all the 12volt circuit breakers you want through any marine/boat supply store.
     
  17. Overkill

    Overkill 1/2 ton status

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    I think the breakers use heat detection to activate the cutoff. My rear window switch in the '82 will quit working if the window gets sticky and then starts working again after a few seconds of no power draw (time to cool). I think they may also be called thermal breakers. Just a thought, hope it helps.
     

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