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Repainting Basecoat/Clearcoat

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by RedBrute, Dec 30, 2006.

  1. RedBrute

    RedBrute 1/2 ton status

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    I picked up a couple of doors off a 91 suburban today. I am starting to prep them for paint and realized they are basecoat/clearcoat and my blazer is single stage acrylic enamel. Will the solvents in the single stage cause the bc/cc to lift or wrinkle? if so what product can I use as a primer or do I need to strip to bare steel?
     
  2. atomicdog

    atomicdog Registered Member

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    the enamel wont bother the bc/cc stuff if its cured.and im sure it is if its used stuff. just feather back the spots your repairing or any scratches or peeling paint and use a good two part primer for fill.Block that down level with 220 or 180 wet depending how bad your areas are and prime again, this time finish with 360 or 400 before painting.if you have any paint edges or metal spots be sure to seal it before painting. this will also keep sand scratches from showin up later as the single stage starts to cure and shrink some. Hope this helps, mind your temps for the reducer and hardner you pick.Follow the instructions to a T no matter what any one says about dry times, the slower it dries the better. If its a solid color your pretty safe for buffing but not so for metalics. so dont run it. put the first coat on medium wet and let it flash then wet em up a little. dont add reducer to make it wetter it will only wash it out and you will lose your shine. Good luck Darren
     
  3. RedBrute

    RedBrute 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the answer and then some... these parts won't get finished til springtime but I want to get the foundation work out of the way little by little this winter. The bc/cc is original peeling GM paint I'm faily sure.
     
  4. 4by4bygod

    4by4bygod 1/2 ton status

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    If the paint is peeling on the blazer anyway, why not just shoot the whole truck base/clear, doors and all?
     
  5. atomicdog

    atomicdog Registered Member

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    good question and probably the best way to go,but he said that he was painting some doors only and i figured he was matching the rest of his truck wich he may have already painted or is trying to match with existing paint.If i was going to paint a whole vehicle without a booth i would definatly go with bc/cc just for the fact that it is more forgiving when it comes to repairs and the that it is easier in my opinion to use.I use DIAMONT by R/M basecoat wich is polyester and DC 5100 for clear.that clear with fast hardner and you could paint those doors and handle them in about 6 hours and thats with three coats of clear.Buff them the next day if you need too.Then do the fenders the next day and so on. do small sections at a time and concentrate on keepin them clean, this is a pain in the ass to do but if you dont have a booth its the best way to keep it clean.sorry for the rambling but i could go on for days, I love paintin:laugh: ATOMICDOG...........
     
  6. RedBrute

    RedBrute 1/2 ton status

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    Holy cow...you just answered my next question before I asked it...! Here is the scoop on what I am doing. I picked up 2 doors last week and both front fenders today. I have to replace the entire drivers quarter panel, re-skin the tailgate, do some rust repair on the pass quarter panel. The only "original" parts will be the cab roof, hood, rockers and maybe half of the pass quarter. Would I be better off to just do the whole thing in base/clear? I want to do whatever is easiest to repair. I'm not after a show car paint job, just the best I can do with simple tools/spray equipment. Thanks much for the advise
     
  7. atomicdog

    atomicdog Registered Member

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    I think i would go ahead and do the whole thing. the clear coat is much more forgiving to rapair and maintain(wax and stuff)Plus if your paint thats already there is in good shape you can paint right over it. Be sure you use a good wax and grease remover and use alot of it,fisheyes suck!! just sand everything down with 400 wet or dry sandpaper (wet or dry is a brand 3M uses ) and the only kind i will use.prime any bare metal spots and start sprayin. I would call my local paint supply house and talk to those guys, I have a English Color and supply here and they rock. I would try the base clear on the doors to get the feel of it,you can buy paint by the 1/2 pint most times, you probably will have to buy a gallon of clear,but it sounds like you may need it. I love R/M paint and have used it for 10 plus years. polyester basecoat is better than urethane or enamel in my opinion (again for repairability during painting process)and cheaper. Another option is the LIMCO clear 4500 its great clear and half the cost 0f DC 5100 and you can still use a fast clear hardner.I hope im not confusin ya with all this. youll love the base clear dont be afraid to try it its easier than single stage trust me.If i can help at all just ask, I will help any way i can. Darren
     
  8. RedBrute

    RedBrute 1/2 ton status

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    I think I can paint doors and fenders off the truck and bolt on without dinging them up. There are two good paint suppliers local to me that I've dealt with and both would understand what you are saying even though I don't have a clue right now. Thanks for taking time to help me out.
     
  9. 4by4bygod

    4by4bygod 1/2 ton status

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    A word on primer for bc/cc

    I used a dupont product called uroprime on my camaro..it flows nice out of the gun,and the stuff dries so the low spots are dark, so there's no need for a guidecoat.. you can just fill in as neccessary, and the primer is also a sealer.. I then used dupont chromabase / chroma clear on the whole car.. did it in my garage in 1992, and these pics were taken this past fall.

    base / clear is the best option IMHO for the home hobbyist.. everything else is too hard to work with if your not a pro. for best results, use a top feeding high volume low pressure gun, and make sure you have a real air compressor.. If you use a little one, you'll be doing a lot of wet sanding.

    Tom

    IMG_1323.JPG

    69Comaro.jpg
     
  10. atomicdog

    atomicdog Registered Member

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    you got that right, used uroprime for awile and it is great stuff.Ditto on the gun, i use a devilbiss gti and a millinium.your car looks great awsome job!
     
  11. 4by4bygod

    4by4bygod 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the compliment.. it's funny, most people I talk to have never heard of uroprime..an old neighbor of mine used it on the street rods he built, and turned me on to it.. in fact, he was the guy who pushed me to use base clear, and taught me how to wet sand..

    Tom
     
  12. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    base/clear is sooooo easy.. Brings me back to my lacquer days... :haha:
     
  13. atomicdog

    atomicdog Registered Member

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    We refer to wet sandin as waterdoggin here.its the only thing i dont really care for in the process.Necessary evil in my opinion.I used uroprime in the late 80s and early 90s. thats about the time i found R/M during an paint supply store switchover.DP 20 is what i use now and love it but its $$$,worth it i guess goes along way.Smells different,when sanding i mean. cause i ALWAYS wear my respirator! funny what you remember.Ever try dry sanding before painting?one of those new things i never got used too. Im stickin with waterdoggin. Darren
     
  14. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    waterdoggin eh? never heard it termed like that.. :thinking:

    There are times when dry sanding is appropriate, but wetsandi, errr, waterdoggin, :wink1: , will never not have it's place..

    Keep buying that 3M, helps out dads pension! :haha:

    Oh, and for paint, NOTHING touches Glasurit... :bow: :D
     
  15. atomicdog

    atomicdog Registered Member

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    your right there. Glasurit is badass,R/M is a division of BASFs coatings and inks dept.That stuff rocks but i cant afford to use it on the majority of stuff i do.I dont work on alot of Bmers and such.saying it does sound funny if i stop and think about it "waterdoggin" oh well something we started around here when we were younger. I started doin b-work when i was 16 in high school auto-body. Im now 36.Im a professional firefighter now,but i still run my shop on my days off.24 on 48 off,works real well for me and i too have a pension, I have bought alot of 3m stuff in the past 20 years,its about all i use if i can. Im glad to hear someone may be benifiting from it that deserves it.Its made me alot of money also.Tell pops to enjoy it in good health. Later....Darren
     
  16. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    hehe, cool....

    He was an engineer there for 40 yrs... Cool company across the board... Quality is topnotch..

    And yeah, I figure if Glasurit is good enough for Mercedes and BMW, it's good enough for anything.. Their single stage makes awesome engine paint too...
     

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