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Replacing A Section Of Hard Line - Questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Resurrection_Joe, Sep 14, 2003.

  1. Resurrection_Joe

    Resurrection_Joe 1 ton status

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    I rarely post anything having to do with the actual mechanics of my truck, but here's a few questions

    I pulled the 44 out of my truck in anticipation of my new axles and suspension yesterday. (All this crap for sale or free BTW) Anyway, I was taking the braided steel brake lines off. I went to the frame end of the line, threw a wrench on it and turned. I thought, "Oooh right on, its not spinning! It's turning with less and less resistance, soon to come off! Joy is now in the house of RJ!" So I keep turning, and WHAMMO I twist the hard line into a little curlycue of dismay. I assumed hard line had fitting like garden hoses and would spin on the line or that the hard line was solidly connected to some sort of diffusion block* behind the frame rail. I thought at the time the hard line went all the way to the MC, but since it's much shorter, I'm not too upset.

    So here's where I get into the part with the questions and the chunk cheese

    The line I broke was from passenger frame rail. It went from the flexible hose fitting to what I assume is the proportioning valve behing the crossmember, the one you attach the ORD frame brace to.

    1. Is this an orderable part?

    2. Can I replace the hard line with steel braided from Summit Racing with the proper ends, and if so can you point me to the right parts

    3. What the hell size are the ends anyway

    4. How hard is it to bend hard line and flare it and whatnot

    5. Can someone on CK5 do this for me? Whoever does I'll give ya either the steel braided hoses for the D44 or the hubs off the D44 (new warn standards)

    6. I plan on at east replaceing the MC. Are there any other parts like the valvey thing I mentioned earlier or the booster that I should be changing now?

    Anywho, thanks

    PS - Leaving the lines loose and open and replacing hard lines and having new axles is going to be a total whore of a bitch to bleed isn't it? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif


    A Few Pics For Ya...


    *(mysterious rj part I invented in my head)
     
  2. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    bending and flaring is really easy, get a flaring tool from the auto parts store...and to bend it, i use a box end wrench over the line and hold one end of the line and bend until you get it how you want...or you could buy a small tubing bender..
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Hmm, I've got an '88 frame in the garage that has all the brake lines still attached. Only problem is, I'm not sure if they're SAE or metric thread. I know that they went to a metric thread on the brake calipers when the 10-bolt front axles came along, but I don't know about the other end. If someone can confirm that it'll work for your rig, I can remove it and try to find a box big enough to ship it in without bending it all up. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    They are all standard thread and it should be 3/16" line. Chevy never used a metric brake line on these trucks as far as I know.

    You can buy entire brake line kits online, but I'd just get a section of line and replace the one piece. The line costs $2.49 and it costs $15 to rent the tool that you can return and get your money back if you need to flare the line. I always bend it by hand, but if you need to do a tight radius the bender is nice and it's cheap to rent.
     
  5. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Go to Kragen or your local equivalent and pick up a length of 3/16" hard line pre-flared. It will have each end flared and the nuts already on it. Just get the length you need and bent it to fit. But if you want it perfect go to Autozone and rent the flaring tool and the bending tool, 10 dollar tools. I've been "renting" the flaring tool from autozone for the last 2 years... They haven't called wanting it back though /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  6. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    yep, mzke your own, once youve made one you can make about any line, sometimes you have to reuse threaded fittings, if you get in a jam where the fititng wont slide off the rusted old line then get a 3/16" drill bit and drill out of the fitting and then youll be good to go, 1/4" for rear line.

    pretty easy, hardest part is the two stages it takes to get the double flare, but still not complicated and will save you time and money of ordering soemthing you can make in about 15minutes.


    good luck
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I've been "renting" the flaring tool from autozone for the last 2 years... They haven't called wanting it back though /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    They won't. You bought it two years ago. You paid for it. You can bring it back any time you want. If you don't want to bring it back, they don't care.

    It's not a "rent" thing, it's a "buy a used tool and return it if you want" thing.
     
  8. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If you flare make sure you use the right flaring tool.brake lines have what you call a double flare.
     
  9. wa_jeeper

    wa_jeeper Registered Member

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    I don't know... the one time I "rented" a tool from Autozone (steering wheel puller) I tried to bring it back a couple days later and they wouldn't take it. Said because I didn't have my receipt they couldn't take it back. Even though I had my ID and the credit card I used in the first place... So now I have a steering wheel puller for $10 /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  10. firefighter184

    firefighter184 1/2 ton status

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    Summit sells braided lines, or you can get pre-flared lengths of 3/16 line for about three bucks at pep boys, checker, etc. They come ready to go, fittings and all, in lengths ranging from 20" to ?. Buy a bender, it's handy when you flex too much and pop a line. In the military, it's called a "field expedient repair". Or rent the flaring tool and go custom. I am generally a mechanical idiot, but did this repair myself in less than half an hour. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     

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