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Replacing ball joints?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BLzr4x4ngkid, Feb 20, 2002.

  1. BLzr4x4ngkid

    BLzr4x4ngkid 1/2 ton status

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    I need to get all 4 ball joints and both tie rod ends replaced. There's a shop locally that does a great job, but I don't really want to pay the $500 they will probably want for labor. How hard is it to replace them? I caught a glance when my friend was working on his K10, but didn't really get down and look. I'm just looking for a way to save a little cash. Any kind of comments would be appreciated. Thanks!

    Pedal mashed and KICK'N ASS!
    WFO! Wide [censored]'n OPEN!
     
  2. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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  3. StonerK5

    StonerK5 1/2 ton status

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    I just bought the Ball/U joint clamp/press from Harbor Freight $30. I am going to attempt to do this job myself while I am waiting on the axle work that needs to be done

    "Whatever happened to my Rock N Roll?"
    IM nOt wEiRd, i jUsT lOvE tHe sHiFt kEy!!
     
  4. Mobile_Mechanic

    Mobile_Mechanic Registered Member

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    Might as well do the u-joints now while it is apart, no?

    '84 K30, 6" suspension, 3"body, 350, 350, NP205
    D60, 14 FF W/Detroit, 4.56 Gears, 35" Ground Hawgs
     
  5. StonerK5

    StonerK5 1/2 ton status

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    Yup those too, and maybe the brakes, repack the bearings...
    Oh man my mind is racing!!
    Main thing I think is to just get in there and check everything out for myself. I hate paying for labor unless it is absolutly nessesary

    "Whatever happened to my Rock N Roll?"
    IM nOt wEiRd, i jUsT lOvE tHe sHiFt kEy!!
     
  6. Mobile_Mechanic

    Mobile_Mechanic Registered Member

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    It is a pretty straight forward job. I would invest in a good manual if you've never done it before. The last ones I did, the hardest part was seperating the spindles from the knuckles.

    '84 K30, 6" suspension, 3"body, 350, 350, NP205
    D60, 14 FF W/Detroit, 4.56 Gears, 35" Ground Hawgs
     
  7. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    No way would I pay $500. I've done this job myself using a Haynes/Clymer manual, and I rented the special tool to press out/in new ball joints from AutoZone. Since yer gonna have to tear the whole front axle down, now is a good time to check u-joints, bearings, and grease everything up etc. It took me a whole afternoon to do the job myself. I did this on my GM 10 bolt 9 years ago. I inspect and grease everything at least once a year and after every off-road trip, and those ball joints still have no slop in them (I used Moog). I just performed the same job on my Dana 44 front axle for my Willys last fall. The job is well within the range of the DIY.

    [​IMG]psychoholicslag
     
  8. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    It was an all day job but I took my sweet f'ing time doing it. When you remove the knuckles dont be afraid to swing the hammer, you're gonna toss the old ball joint anyway. I had my ball joints R @ R'd for $20 at a machine shop. Well worth the money. Read the directions on the ball joint installation and pay attention to the preload information. Good Luck, its not too bad of a job.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  9. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    The worst part about the whole job is dealing with the wheel bearing grease. The link given about is to my cheesy right up, but Im no longer using that site so if it fails you can find the same write up here. <a target="_blank" href=http://www.mccords.s5.com/myk5/balljoints.htm>balljoint swap</a>

    Its the popping, rumbling, roaring, twisting, flexing, grinding, so you can wheel anywhere medicine[​IMG]
     

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