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Replacing Calipers and Rotors

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by johnny reb, Apr 4, 2002.

  1. johnny reb

    johnny reb 1/2 ton status

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    Going to replace my front calipers and rotors soon. Read a post a while ago with someone saying they could get loaded calipers for $20 or so. Cheapest I could find was Raybestos for $75 on carparts.com.

    If I replace only the front calipers do I have to bleed the whole system or can I just bleed my front brakes? Is there any special process I have to go through to prepare the front brakes before I install them (i.e. bench bleeding)?

    Can I replace only the rotors or do I have to get the whole hub assembly as well? I guess what I mean is can the rotors be removed from the hub assembly?
     
  2. fulltopblazer

    fulltopblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I just bought new calipiers and rotors from autozone the rotors were around $30.00 and the calipiers around $20.00. you can take the hub off the rotor buy removing the wheel studs. I would replace the wheel studs too .
     
  3. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, Just did this two days ago.

    You can remove the hubs from the rotors by hammering out the wheel studs. If you really wish to reuse them make sure you cover them with a towel or something before hitting them with a hammer and try to hit them just once solidly, they should pop out.

    Personally I'd buy 12 new ones at 99 cents a peice.

    The studs can be a pain to put back in. I had to impact wrench mine back in with a open lugnut and a stack of washers... you may be able to pound them in from the backside.

    While you are at it you may as well repack the bearings in the front end.

    As far as bleeding yes you can only do the front.
    To get the new calipers bled I would gravity bleed them first. Get the brake line attached to the new caliper and fill the master cylinder resevoir... open both bleader screws until fluid starts to bubble out. Gravity will pull it all the way through the lines. Then you can shut off the bleader screw and continue bleadin the front from the passenger side then driver's side. This usually works but sometimes some air will remain in the system after driving a little bit and you will have to go back and blead the whole system including rears again...

    Good Luck and holler if you need anything.
    --Josh
     
  4. Jonathan

    Jonathan 1/2 ton status

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    If you pound the studs in from the backside of the rotor, be careful not to pound on it any after it's all the way down, I cracked a rotor by doing that and had to buy another.
     

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