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Replacing Inner Fenders

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BigBadJap, May 29, 2003.

  1. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    Can anybody tell me what's involved in replacing front inner fenders? (Time, tools, tricks)
     
  2. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Easy. Socket wrench, a little PB Blaster. Remove anything you have inside the engine compartment attached to the inner fender that would keep it from coming out. I don't think there is anything on a stock K5 except the stock jack if you have it on the passenger side.

    Then take out all the bolts you see from the wheel well side. There weren't any hidden bolts or anything on mine. Then it just falls out.
     
  3. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    and since you live in the rustbelt area..it will be a little trickeir than that..when i did mine a few months ago i had tpo use a torch to get some of the bolts out with out ripping things up..heat is a nice thing to have handy..but other than that its pretty easy..but the new ones ull find usually that the holes may not line up right..i had to drill quite a few new holes to put mine in..but it looks great now!
     
  4. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    So, to remove the inner fender, I don't have to remove the outter fender, or hood? Are we talking about like 1.5 hours per fender to replace? A one man job?
     
  5. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    You don't have to remove the outer fender or hood. The inner fender is independent. If you don't have a tough time with extensively rusted bolts, it's a 15 minute job per fender to remove. Putting on new ones is a little longer just because you have to hold the fender up and get the bolts started, If you have a good replacement and the holes line up it's fast. Will be slower if the holes don't match up and you have to drill new ones..
     
  6. BigBadJap

    BigBadJap Registered Member

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    Sounds promising! I'm gonna go order me up some inner fenders!

    Thanks for the help!
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yes, you may also need to consider picking up, or having available, all the "c" (can't ever remember the GM name for them) nuts they use for the bolts to the fender. They are pretty flimsy, and if rusty, will typically break.
     
  8. Hayduke

    Hayduke 1/2 ton status

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    leather gloves! i had close to a dozen paper-cut like slices on both hands after manipulating the fenderwell up into the truck, and i didn't realize it until the gojo and hot water hit it! otherwise it was easy, except i can hear it squeaking slightly, (just like the rest of the truck! lol)
    peace.
    HAYDUKE
     
  9. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    Those particular ones are called J-nuts because they look kind of like a J. There are other ones out there in different shapes and they came up with different names but everyone calls all of them J-nuts nowadays. It's just like there used to be all different names for each kind of christmastree but now they are all called christmastrees.

    But anyway, replacing innerwheelwells are pretty easy. The hardest part are the bolts at the top of the wheel opening and the ones that hook to the cab. The other ones like the ones that hook to the core support all come out pretty easy.

    I live in the rust capitol of the midwest (Michigan) and it's not too bad of a job. The hard part is persuading the fenders to not fall apart or the cab not to bust off its tang for the captive nut.
     

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