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Replacing MOTOR MOUNTS

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by wadinator, Nov 18, 2003.

  1. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    Hey all....

    I gotta replace the motor mounts on my 87 1/2tn Suburban with a 350tbi. I've never done this before, so I'm looking for pointers.

    I'll be lifting the motor using a floor jack on the harmonic balancer. My bro-in-law said to wedge a block between the oil pan and the frame in case the jack lets go. After the motor is lifted and braced, it should be pretty easy.

    Am I missing anything? Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. azblazor

    azblazor 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Wade,
    I have done it this way essentially. Just be careful and gently take the weight off of the mounts as you remove the engine mount bolts. I would put some wood between the pan and jack rather than use the harmonic balancer. You can do it with out damaging the pan. I am leery of putting the weight of the engine on the harmonic balancer. I'm sure there are other opinions though.
     
  3. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    I was just told the same thing elsewhere.

    Seriously? The oil pan will be able to take that much weight? I'll gladly go that route, cuz I'm afraid of bending the crankshaft or something by jacking on the harmonic balancer.
     
  4. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I used a floor jack and a 4x4 to the oil pan when I did my mounts. It seemed to work fine.
     
  5. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I used a floor jack and a 4x4 to the oil pan when I did my mounts. It seemed to work fine.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Alrighty. Maybe this is the way to do it then. Did you have some sort of backup, to prevent your hands from getting crushed in case the jack lets go?
     
  6. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I stuffed a 2x4 up in there somewhere at the same time. Maybe between the crossmember and the pan. I cant remember exactly where, but somewhere.
     
  7. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    Just make sure the board you use covers the hole bottom of the pan. If you only use a 2x4 it will bend the pan "from experience"
     
  8. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    Can (and should) a guy try to loosen the bolts holding the mount to the frame before jacking and backing out the big bolts? That way your not tugging and wiggling the whole truck trying to loosen those bolts while the motor is being held up by the jack.

    Just a thought from a guy who's never done this before....
     
  9. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    just dont put weight under harmonic dampner, you risk damaging the thing because you could cause outer ring of dampner to move, which would ruin it, only thing holding it to hub of the dampner is rubber

    once engine is lifted up you will be able to get engine mount removed /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    wont be too bad, just take your time and make sure that engine will not come down when you dont want it to, i am very cautious when i have to replace or swap or reposition mounts or mounting brackets with engine in the engine bay, one slip and you could lose one or more fingers. i guess i have survived through jobs like that by being overly cautious, or maybe just by luck, dunno,.

    good luck
     
  10. Jays Beast

    Jays Beast 1/2 ton status

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    Like other have said use a 4"x4" board wider than the oil pan and raise it enough to get the mounts out just be careful not to raise it to high, as could damage the distributor cap.

    Jayson
     
  11. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    I have seen People do it with the balancer, and I just shake my head. You are ablying force on
    1 the balancer
    2 the crank it was not designed to be a lifting point
    3 the bearings not designed to support an engine.

    best way to do it is with a cherry picker.
    with out a cherry picker you can do it with the floor jack/oil pan deal but if your pan is rusty beond surface rust you may collapse the pan. If this is your situation I have done them by using a 2x4 between under the fuel pump ON THE BLOCK not the pump and the on the ground , jacking up the tuck and letting it down slow with the motor mount bolts out. For saftey sake I would reomend getting a 2x4 that will fit from the cowl to the core support settign it across and chaining the engine to it after lifting it incase your hands are in there and the motor drops.
    good luck they are cake really
     
  12. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    Ditto on the cherry picker. It's worth the rental fee if you can get one nearby. I just bought one and I've already recouped my money many times over.
     
  13. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I would reomend getting a 2x4 that will fit from the cowl to the core support settign it across and chaining the engine to it after lifting it incase your hands are in there and the motor drops.
    good luck they are cake really

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Try not to laugh here... by core support, do you mean the radiator support? And what's the cowl?
     
  14. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    The core support is the radiator supprt yes, Just make sure its on the support and not the radiator, ( I havent seen under the hood of a k5 with a factory radaitor init in a long time so the radiator may be to high to do this, you will have to check) the cowl is the area bewteen the windsheild and the hood the wipers protrude from the cowl.

    DISCLAIMER:
    Now under stand that if the block did fall you MAY slighty dent the cowl or core support, In my eyes I would rather have 2 hands to hammer either back out IF it did fall, then have to look at a strait core support and cowl in a truck I cant drive Becuase I have no hands.
     
  15. wadinator

    wadinator 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks to everyone who shared pointers with me!

    The motor mount replacement went off (almost) without a hitch. I somehow pulled one of the plug wires loose from the distributor cap.

    Thanks! You guys are great!
     

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