Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Rochester 750cfm Q-jet problem

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Paxx, Nov 7, 2003.

  1. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2003
    Posts:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    All Over Western Canada
    Last time I drove my truck it ran fine, just a little on the rich side due to the stock housing being put back on. When I went to take it out last night it started up but then would die after start up. I figured it was due to the cold so I started it again and kept revving it for a while giving it a chance to warm up, then as soon as I'd let go of the gas it would stall again. I fired it up and this time decided to drive it a ways. It felt like it kept wanting to bog out on me. thought it might have been low on gas, took it filled it up went to drive away and it stalled again. Took the air cleaner off and found that it had been spitting gas out. it was inside the air cleaner and all over the top of the carb/engine. ended up tightening the screw on the linkage to get it to hold idle a bit better which seemed to help some, it held idle for about 15 to 30 sec before dying this time. Decided to get it home, got there and it stayed idling at 1000rpm when I got home and it didn't die /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif What is going on with my carb???
     
  2. Goober

    Goober 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2002
    Posts:
    2,222
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mayberry (Auburn, WA)
    Dang, that sucks. <--carb joke. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


    It's really hard to know for sure without looking at it and knowing some more details but I would start by looking at your float. Make sure it's still floating /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif and make sure the needle on the end of the float is able to fully seal in the seat. This is the same type of symptoms you would have if you had some crud holding that needle off the seat.

    Also, make sure you check your choke linkage to make sure it's working. Once the engine starts, it should open up a little bit to let air in and as it warms up it should open all the way.


    /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2001
    Posts:
    8,905
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    central IL
    cold start problem would be due to choke open too far

    is it electornic or hot vacuum tube air or hot intake manifold spring type ?
     
  4. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2001
    Posts:
    1,683
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    --
    Check float/Needle/Seat/Choke as was stated before. I'd also spray the linkage with WD40; on my carb, the high idle (used when the engine is cold, linkage on pass. side) does not always like to engage, in most cases due to gunk on the linkage. You also might want to adjust the high idle speed rather than regular idle. I usually do this for winter, set it at 1500-1800, although this year I've vowed not to drive the truck anymore due to salt on NE roads....
     

Share This Page