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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by pennsylvaniaboy, Apr 22, 2007.
Hey guys curious what you guys have for rock sliders. Post up pics guys lets see them
cut about 4 or 5 inches of the body out, welded in the 2x4 metal tubing, mostly done by ck5er supersize75k5. not quite all finished up yet - still gotta trim them down so there's no overhang in the wheel wells and then also weld caps on the ends.
don't have many closeups of them all done - sorry, gotta look behind me to see it a bit better...
this requires modifying the doors, i.e. cutting the bottoms off. unfortunately, what happens is that when it rains, the water seeps down into the door thru where the window goes down, and puddles out into the truck. so, i intend to weld in a base plate, say about 3 or 4 inches high at the bottom of the door opening, kind of like the lips that jeeps have. then i'll drill some holes so the rain can run out. should work and look pretty slick.
looks good man any one else have some
a few pics of mine in the 71. I am gonna as tube outriggers yet but low on the priority list.
no offense against dpi im sure they mean well but i feel that is an inferior design as it mounts to the body instead of the frame. i and using 4x2 box steel. so post up
Anyone have any of the tube sliders? I was gonna buy some, or make some, just wasn't sure how they mounted.
My sliders are integrated into the body. They hold up well when you integrate them into the body and it doesn't add a bunch of stress to an already weak frame. Properly integrated sliders with good body braces work very well. We have been using them this way very hard in AZ for years with no problems. Also integrating them into the body also nets better ground clearence then doing frame mounts.
You would be shocked what difference higher sliders can do even just a few inches. Scaraficing the GC to mount them to the frame is less desirable IMO.
There are picks of my sliders in my webshots linked in my sig line. They are 2 pieces of 1.5" .250 wall squaretube welded together and they have a 1" .120 wall HREW kicker tube with 5 points of contact with the slider. The sliders themselves have held up great. The kicker tubes are bending between the braces but I expected that under hard use so no biggy.
i use body mounted rock sliders with no problems. Check em out at my website www.blazerbalto.com under products.
another problem with mounting them to the frame is that if your body flexes away from your frame, you can end up denting the body on the sliders (ofcourse this may or may not matter to you) and if you need to open your door, the sliders can get in the way if the body is flexed just right.
Mounting them to the body has many advantages and as mentioned work well here in hard wheeling such as that found in arizona, harley, myself, paul, marve, rocb, dj, mikey..list goes on and on
one advantage that is certain is that it makes the body more rigid, if you have a rust or are a full convertable, or you like to open your door..this is a plus
yeh im not denying that but im an east coast guy and rust sucks. the body shouldnt be a huge deal the cab flexes a little. i am running this on a 1 ton with 8ft bed. plus ill be putting a cage in that will really sturdy things up. i like the idea of weld ons but i have also grown up doing bodywork and know the limitations of sheetmetal. sorry guys but not even a chance ill do body mounted sliders unless they are weld on and attached to both the body and the frame.
on my old cab truck I had the sliders mounted to the frame with like 1/2" clearance to cab/ bed to allow for some twist
Basically the same idea as colbystephens already listed. About 4-5" cut out of the bottom of the body and 3x3 tubing welded on. The A and B pillars are pretty beefy to weld to, and then I have some 1.5" square tube and some 2" angle welded between the sliders and the inner body "subframe". Absolutely no connection to the actual frame. I can hi-lift the entire side of the truck off the ground and there's no noticable body distortion, and they have been hit pretty hard against rocks and trees.
Another issue with mounting only to the frame is that there is a lot of leverage by the time you get a set of sliders out past the body.
What do yall think about the same design, cutting out the rockers, but using 2" round tubing? I've been needing to do something like this but just haven't ever sourced any square tubing. However I've got some 2" round tubing. Pros and cons?
It is just easier to lay in with square but with some imagination it could be done with round. I used 2x3x.1875 on mine.
what wall thickness are you guys using for the 2x4 tubing?
Mine were .188" and were nowhere near bending or denting, no matter how hard I hit them.
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