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Rod Bearings.....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Apr 25, 2001.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Anyone ever replaced the rod bearings with the motor still in the truck? My uncle says its not to bad to do.
    Im hoping that is all I need to do. Im getting a lite knocking when cold. Then after it reaches 200 deg. it goes away.
    It may be the rist pins wearing out. Any ideas gents???
    I would also like to put a new cam and intake in. Should just pull the whole damn thing and re-build er'?

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimmy 350TBI-TCI 700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  2. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    Yo ucan do the bearings w/o pulling but it's a very big PITA... just imagine laying on your back for hours with your hands above your head with crap walling in your eye's.... tryign to hold the crank up and torque everything down while your hitting you rtourque wrench on all the other stuff.... I'd pull it and do all the bearings and gaskets at the same time....
    Just my .02c

    [​IMG]See me at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm>http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm</A>
     
  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I was thinking the same thing. Was also wondering if I did pull it what kinda gains should I expect to see from going 30 over? Or should just leave it stock, hone it and get bigger rings?

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimmy 350TBI-TCI 700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  4. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    LMAO... oh man no way I'd do it... Not even on the hoist in the shop.... Just pull the motor and do it all. Chances are if you got rod knock (whether from age or lack of oil) you have other problems forming too.
    .030 over and new rings and pistons won't do much power wise, but gives a nice good clean cylinder to seal.

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Gain from over boring a motor that doesn't need it is basically nothing, unless you race and need ever hundredth of a second. Just means thats one less time you can't rebore when it really needs it.

    I'd pull the motor and check the whole thing out. You want to fix the problem before a rod lets loose and destroys the whole thing, in which case you'll be starting from scratch anyway. IMO

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  6. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Man Capt. you crack me up. Everytime you post Im usually rolling afterwards. Thats good though. I was just contemplating all my options. Well, I only drive the old girl once a week. So Im gonna have to wait on the re-build. But I still have my TCI 700 to put in. So maybe I'll wiat on that till I pull the motor adn just do it all in one big swoop. But that means I will be down alot longer though. But for a standard rebuild I shouldn't be looking at more than about 800 bones. So thats good. Or should I just get me a crate motor?

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimmy 350TBI-TCI 700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  7. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    I used to change bearing on old Model A and flat head V8's but that was mainly because they weren't built to todays technology. Now a days, if I change them it would only be to get it by the potential buyer. Your right on it maybe a wrist pin or it could be piston skirt slap. When you bore it, go only to the minimums, like Dorian said, your only decreasing the number of times you can rebuild it. Mines at .080 over and I'm looking for a good rebuildable block now for in the future (thinking stroker). $800 is a good mid range price for a solid rebuild. Get it balanced, check the deck and redeck as necessary, align hone the main journals, have it bored and honed with torque plates, etc. For stock to mild rebuilds, the current connecting rods can be reworked and reused. If your going to jump it up quite a bit, may want to look at new rods. Same with the crank. Why don't you go ahead and pull it now, start rebuilding it over the next year or two and I'll test run that tranny for you. Does it have the short shaft to fit a NP205????
     
  8. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldnt boar it over till you need it... your just shortening the life of the motor... wait till it needs a true rebuild before you go boaring the block...
    Just my opinion...

    The motor can easily be pulled and re gasketed and new bearings in one weekend... we did it to my buddies dodge 440...

    [​IMG]See me at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm>http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm</A>
     
  9. doonjumper

    doonjumper 1/2 ton status

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    I wish I had your guys machinist. I just built a 383 stroker and it cost me $4000. I got new Elgin 383 crank,new Trick Flow rods,Hyperutetic K/B pistons,center bolt alluminum E/B heads,and all the rest of the goodies. Just got my email confirming that my TPI was made and shipped yesterday thats another $2250.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I'll send that 700 right over there Wheels. LMFAO!!!!!!
    And If it takes me a year or 2 to rebuild the motor I need to give it up all together. Im just looking for a slightly over stock build. Besides the block work. The only other questions I have would be for the heads. I plan on putting another cam in so should I go ahead and get new springs and rockers and all that jazz for the heads? Also what about this porting and polishing stuff? What all will that really do? And would it really be necessary?
    I was told that having the heads worked would cost me about $300. Does this sound right?

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimmy 350TBI-TCI 700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  11. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Head work around here is about $150 per head for everything. Porting and polishing, new valve guides, valve job, etc. Depending on the cam you select will depend if you need new springs. Condition of your springs will also depend if you need new springs. One thing I would do different is to go with the Vortec heads and manifold to match. About $500 for the heads (both including valves, springs, retainers, etc), they beat the heck out of stock as far as flow goes. If you bump compression up aluminum heads are better (they give a little on higher compression engines) but cost more. And you can get them with just about any runner/flow you want. For low end work match everything to the rpm band that you want to work in (off-idle to about 3500/4000 rpm).
     
  12. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldn't mind getting newer and better heads. But other than the old age symptoms my rig has now Im fairly happy with its performance. So Im banking that with a fresh rebuild and some spunk here and there with a new bump stick, bigger mouth and high flow poop shoot and no compression loss I should be alot happier. Hell this thing weights too much to be hoopin it up. I 'll do all that STEROID stuff to my future 69 Camaro.

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10/12 bolt w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     

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