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Rollbar thickness question

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TJS, Dec 18, 2002.

  1. TJS

    TJS 1/2 ton status

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    OK here is the deal. I have a rotted 79 K-5 that I am always cannobolizing for my 85 K-10 pickup. I noticed that the k-5 has a cool factory roll bar that is in the way back. So I took it out and now want to mount it on my K-10 except I want to put it where all the roll/light bars are mounted on pickups behind the cab. So I have to extend the legs that attach to the inside of the bed to the fender aprons (easily done w a chop saw and a nice mig). I went to the scrap yard today (this place is a candy store for fabricators) and I picked up some 2.00" OD and .135" wall tubing 12 feet long for 6 bucks. I was wondering if this stuff is thick enough wall for what I am doing. All I really want this bar is for my strobes and all my backup lites for plowing. Is this thickness good or not. I also found a nice rear tube style beefy bumper for 22 bucks.
    The scrap yard charges by the pound. Thanks.
    T.J.
     
  2. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    0.120" thickness is generally accepted for roll bar applications. so your thickness is fine, but i am not sure about the structural integrity
     
  3. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    That would work. I'd reccomend getting some 1 3/4" 120 wall tubing and sleeving it inside where your joining the 2" tubes. an overlap of a couple of inches would be fine, it would align it for you and give it some structural integrity just in case you have to use it for a roll, rather than a light bar.
     
  4. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Mo better. Official off road racing sanctioning bodies required 2" .120 wall tubing for cages, so if you ain't getting crazy with the cheese whiz, this will more than adequate.
     
  5. TJS

    TJS 1/2 ton status

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    O.K. thanks for the answers people. Here is what I am going to do. Instead of splicing more tubing in to make the bar fit, I am going to cut where the bars meet the welds and weld new longer tubes in so they are one piece so that it will meet the aprons of the fenders. I will attempt this soon and let you all know how it turns out. Thanks for all the help once again.
    T.J.
     

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