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rollcage mount question

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by shupach, Aug 11, 2001.

  1. shupach

    shupach 1/2 ton status

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    I recently had a rollcage installed into my blazer because it is a full convertible. it was welded into the floor boards up front, the section behind the front row of seats its kind of a ledge, and finally the back end had plates welded into the wheel wells. My dad finally saw the cage completed and was not satisfied because he claimed that it wouldnt work because its not welded onto the frame. What is yalls opinion on this and is the cage strong enough to protect the driver and passenger in case of a rollover.

    for pics http://photos.yahoo.com/gmc2500sub

    phill
     
  2. SWAMPRNR

    SWAMPRNR 1/2 ton status

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    If Its Welded To The Floor Pan It Will Tear Away In A Accident.
    It Needs To Be Attached To The Frame To Work.

    A Big Hammer Can Fix Anything ..
     
  3. MOABDADC22

    MOABDADC22 1/2 ton status

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    <a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/gmc2500sub>http://photos.yahoo.com/gmc2500sub</a>



    Real four wheelers don't need tools to remove body panels, paint, tail lights..etc.
    P.S. Ask me why it is called "BODY SNATCHER"
     
  4. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>Make outriggers bolted to the frame that extent to under where your cage was welded. The best way is to weld plates to the bottom of the cage and then bolt the plates through the floor to the outrigger. </font color=blue>
     
  5. aaaaggh

    aaaaggh 1/2 ton status

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    if it goes to the floor with different sized sandwich plates then it will be fine for offroading. if you plan on it working at a highway speed rollover then it needs to go to the frame.

    friends romans countrymen, lend me some parts
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well if the front legs are just inside the kick pannel then your dirrectly over the front cab suport. Fairly sturdy point (except for the rust). The middle tube if your using the factory location is over a heavy body suport also. The third legs if to the top of the fender wells is worth less. They will fold like a beer can. Should have run them all the way back to the corners and but a good backing plate in so you can take advantage of the tail pan for suport. For off road that is not to bad a set up. I made a custom Tailpan for mine out of 7 inch wide C Channel. My floor was replaced due to rust and I made a sub frame that ties into the 1st and 2nd cab suport and my cage bolt to it. Still not as good as a true to the frame but better than to just the sheet metal. Some pictures on my site, Link in sig. I haven't got the pictures of my cage up yet.

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>

    Grim-Reaper
     
  7. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    I have mine welded in the same places except for the rear fender wells....mine go to the corners.I'd have to agree with Grim.....not my frst choice on the rear wells, but the others should be fine. Attaching a cage directly to the frame causes LOTS of noise and vibration to be transmitted to the cab....to the frame would be best for all out safety, but not required for slower stuff, besides it's gotta be better than the "no cage" you had before.

    Michael[​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm>www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm</a>
     

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