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Rough idle... Wont shut-off after key is out?!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by socal chevy, Nov 22, 2004.

  1. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gifHey all. I got a problem with my 84 K10. When it starts up, I have a really hard time making it idle, even when its been running for a while. I adjusted the "rev".. but now it just rev's to high at idle. Any ideas of what might be going on?...carberator?....ALSO, the engine seems to "shake" when idleing, like its not getting enough fuel or something....AND LASTLY, when I turn the truck off, it doesnt cut the engine completely, the engine continues for about 7 seconds, and then dies.... Any ideas how to fix that?... Thanks in advance for the help!! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You might have an idle stop solenoid thats not working--its an electric device that sets the idle speed by pushing against the throttle lever on the carb--it jumps out and sets the idle speed when you turn the key on,and retracts when you shut it off,so the butterflies in the carb shut completely,making sure the engine shuts off.If yours lost power due to a blown fuse or bad wire to it,it wont idle--and you have to crank up the idle speed screw to keep it running.This allows the butterflies to hang open,and makes the engine "run on" or "diesel" when you shut the key off,you need to see if there is power to the wire on it with the key on--if not,check fuse and wiring.It could be the solenoid itself died also.Timing not adjusted to proper specs can cause this too,also too lean a mixture in the carb,makes it run hot,and a valve or carbon in the cylinders can get hot enough to "fire" the mixture just like the spark plugs would. I've had a few trucks with junk idle stop solenoids,I usually just crank the idle speed screw up just enough so it wont stall out in drive(automatic)and if it tends to "run on" I just shut it off in drive,or pop the clutch in 4th gear to stop it,but the right fix is to make it work again.The fast idle cam on the carb might be sticking too--that will do the same thing,so can the choke not opening all the way. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  3. 86chevybanshee

    86chevybanshee 1/2 ton status

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    i have a similar problem, my truck runs and idle's the balls but when i shut it off it does the same thing, i think they call it dieseling /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  4. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Make sure your plug wires are not burnt to the exhaust manifold , that and look at the timing , too much advance will make it diesel /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  5. hawkeye649

    hawkeye649 1/2 ton status

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    I was hitting send just as steve shut the site down, so I'm going to post this no matter what anyone else has said and then go and read there sh|t. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

    Idle too high. High idle causes "dieseling" or running after it's shut off, 7 seconds is really bad. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
    There is a dashpot control for this, it's called the "duh duh duh!!" anti-diesel dashpot, which MAY be shot but I doubt it.
    I would grab some WD-40 and start spraying down any "wire" that looks like it may be a vacuume hose, see if it changes the idle at all when you do it. Also check around the base of the carb, and don't forget there are some vacuum lines inside the truck to control the vents (dumb ass idea chevy!!)
    How about yer plugs, they all clean?
    At night when you run it, do you see a firework show??? (bad plug wires/cap/rotor/etc)
    Do you have compression in all the cylendars?
    Did it just show up all of a sudden, or was it running at some point?? /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Steve said 10 MST /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Also sometimes the weather plays an important part in carbs . Mine is more prone to do it in summer with cheap gas , my timing being a little advanced , and the damn heat /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  7. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    AS you know I am a newbie, how do I check the timing?
     
  8. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    WD-40 on vacuum lines? Are you messing with a newbie, or is that for-real? (explain)... How do I check compression?

    I just changed out the valve gaskets, and changed the oil. It ran fine before and would Idle decent, but not great. Before the work, it would shut off, and only stay on for another 2 seconds....not 7. ALSO, its dropped in tempature from about 60 deg. at night too about 50deg.
     
  9. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    help! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  10. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    First things first . I would start by replacing the fuel filter and carb base gasket , may set you back like 8 bucks . Then run it again and check the timing , adjust idle speed . Maybe someone near you will volunteer to look at it , its really just a matter of ruling out vacuum leaks and retuning the carb . It needs patience and a good ear /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

    http://corvettefaq.com/c3/quadidle.html
    http://corvettefaq.com/c3/QJetTroubleshoot.mht
    http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl494b.htm
     
  11. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    First things first . I would start by replacing the fuel filter and carb base gasket , may set you back like 8 bucks . Then run it again and check the timing , adjust idle speed . Maybe someone near you will volunteer to look at it , its really just a matter of ruling out vacuum leaks and retuning the carb . It needs patience and a good ear /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif[ QUOTE ]
    .

    How do I go about doing that, and where do I buy the parts?

    CAN ANYONE HELP ME DO IT?!!?!? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  12. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Well hopefully someone in Cali will help . Sounds like you really do need help . Calm down and remember its only a truck , and you are capable of anything . Go to a local autoparts store , buy a manual or book on your truck and read it , that will help you understand where things are and whats what . Your local library has plenty of books for understanding basic mechanics , and you can even do google searches on the net and find the same things . Patience is your friend and hang in there /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  13. 86chevybanshee

    86chevybanshee 1/2 ton status

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    well to put on a new base gasket you're gonna have to remove the carb. take off the old one and put the new one on.
    to replace the fuel filter, follow the fuel line to the carb. its on the front of the carb. theres a little nut and a big nut, you want to take the little one out first then the big one(they're not really nuts, it pretty much like a brake line fitting). then take the old filter out(notice the way it comes out cuz you have to put it back in the right way). then reverse the process /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the advice, im going to take use it /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  15. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    I checked the fuel filter and its clean. Engine is still running rough. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
     
  16. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Check the timing; you'll need a timing light, and some kind of service manual -- the Chilton's or Hayne's I mailed you links to will do fine.

    Donno about your newfangled one; on the older ones you disconnect the vacuum line at the carb and plug it -- a golf tee works nicely for this /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    You then hook up the timing light (battery, and a snap around #1 spark wire, driver's side front) and you point the flashy end down where the fan is, being careful not to take off any of your fingertips or the timing light wires.

    Anyway, the book will tell you more. Mine diesels like hell when it's warm and the timing is off, but I'm also fighting a previous owner's creative use of vacuum hose /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif

    So, in summary: Vacuum leak (WD40 test), fuel delivery (filter), ignition (plugs and wires, timing.)

    HTH.

    -- A
     
  17. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    explain to me that WD-40 test, whats the purpose/what does it do, and what should I be looking for? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  18. socal chevy

    socal chevy 1/2 ton status

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    wd-40? BUMP
     
  19. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Patience, grasshopper. You're looking for vacuum leaks; if when you spray a specific hose, the carb base gasket, etc, the idle speed changes dramatically ... there's your leak.

    -- A
     
  20. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    what he is talking about is locating vacumm leaks by spraying wd 40 down near it, timew out right there, I've been turning wrenches alot of years, professionally, and I've always used carb cleaner to do this, any way spray carb cleaner down to the base of the carb with the engine running, and anywhere there is a vacumm line if the idle straightens up or decreases when you do this. thats how to locate leaks

    as far as the plug wires, engine running in a shaded area, spray WATER on the plug wires and look for electrical arcing, if you see any arcing, replace all plug wires (save yourself the time and replace all of them) hope that helps /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     

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