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Running a C-10 on Propane?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Tremors-GraboidKiller, Jan 13, 2005.

  1. Tremors-GraboidKiller

    Tremors-GraboidKiller Newbie

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    I lost my password after being a member for 5 years, :( I think steve or someone zapped me :( Anyway, I have a very peaked interest in running propane. I can a 100lb bottle filled for $20, and if anyone could point me in the right direction with information, kits reads ect.

    I had an uncle that ran one on a ford and he told me the pros and cons, and I still think it would be very worthwhile to commute back and forth from school on.

    I would either use it on a Straight 6 or a 350, I really am partial to 350's because of ease of parts and easy bolt ons....but for economy/sound/reliability I would like a straight 6. I would like a 4speed manual or a 700-r4.

    I don't someone help me :)
     
  2. spoolnaround

    spoolnaround 1/2 ton status

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  3. camiswelding

    camiswelding 1/2 ton status

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  4. Ddragggon

    Ddragggon 1/2 ton status

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    A million years ago, Arizona would help with propane conversions, but then a bunch of people used the government writeoff to get themselves brand new $65,000 SUV's for $15,000, and they canceled the entire clean air program. Perhaps I'm a bit off base when I say I want the @#$%ers to rot in hell. Otherwise, I would have had one installed on my old C20 pickup.
     
  5. sandy78

    sandy78 Registered Member

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    Prope

    Back around 82-'84 I worked at a place selling equipment for conversions. I haven't really kept up on it, so what I have to say may be a little dated. First note. There are different prices for heating propane, and motor fuel. When sold as motor fuel, there are highway taxes added to it. That may change your payback.

    Tanks: For the Chevs, there were 80 and 100 gal. bed tanks (go right behind cab), Torpedoes (long and skinny, over the fenderwells front to back), and Saddle tanks underneath. All the tanks for running cars have a liquid port. Most 100lb cylinders are set up for vapor, and as such not suitable for an automotive application.

    Under the hood: Liquid propane goes to a fuel lockout, then the heat exchanger/regulator, whose job it is to change the liquid to a gas at the right pressure to use in the engine. This component is called the converter. It used coolant from the heater lines to put the heat of vaporization into the propane. There are two types of converters: The Beam setup with a positive pressure idle bleed, and the Impco/LPF/OHG style which require a vacuum to be pulled to let any propane through. From the converter, a 1" hose runs to the "carburetor". The Beam style uses a venturi, and the other styles use an air valve of one sort or another. Some of these systems are set up for "Dual Fuel", and some for just propane. The dual systems allow you to switch to gas and back by pulling a lever, and or switching a switch. A dual system also has a gas lockout valve installed in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the gasoline carbureator.

    Frankly, you would have to go through a LOT of gas to pay for it if you buy everything new. If you can score a used tank cheap, it would help you a lot. You may be able to find a whole used system if you look hard. It was a fairly popular conversion in the late 70's to early 80's. Hope this helps.
     
  6. k5redneck

    k5redneck 1/2 ton status

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    that kit rocks. i just wheeled with a guy that had that kit on a small block chevy in a toyota buggy. i have also talked with cary(the owner) about going propane my self. if it is done right it adds more power..
     

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