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Rust repair.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ntaj*ep, Jul 31, 2002.

  1. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I'm a Tech. by trade. There is not anything I can't fix. However if I have to build it I'm screwed! /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif So My question is, can an arrogant a$$ such as myself do this job with borrowed tools and repair panels aplenty?
    I've watched it be done a few times on the TV. LOL /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif Not to mention I need it done cheap and before BB02! /forums/images/icons/confused.gif
     
  2. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    what exactly are you repairing?
     
  3. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    The drivers side floor is real bad. The rockers are toast as well, but I figure I'll leave those out and put some sliders in in place of the rockers. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
    Oh and the drivers kick panel and probibly the support behind it as well.
     
  4. lizard

    lizard 1/2 ton status

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    jump in there and do it. can you get/beg/borrow a mig? make sure you trim the panels slowly so you dont cut to small. after the first few panels you'll have it whooped. rockers aren't so bad as long as you have something to weld to :-) look at this:

    http://www.classicgm.com/floorboard/

    nothing to put a rocker on there. I was freaked!!! but made it in the end...
     
  5. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    looks good..
     
  6. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    Holy shnikies! So do I butt the metel up against each other or do I over lap it? And do I drill out the spot welda or? I'm lost how bout comming out to the sun shine state of the north. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif You do one and I'll do......oh wait I only need one side done. haha, well? /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
     
  7. lizard

    lizard 1/2 ton status

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    I butted up the metal. there are tools to make seams and overlap joints but I like smooth clean metal that looks as factory as possible.

    The big thingy to watch is excessive heat build up. You gotta trim your panels so they fit in with a little more that a cooter hair of gap. yes, some gap is good but not too much. say 1/32" gap. there are devices that will hold the panels together with the correct amount of gap but I just eyeball it and tack weld in a few places. weld small amounts at a time and quench the fresh weld with a wet sponge to keep warpage down. use a mig welder set on stun (low as possible). keep the wire feed rate slow to promote globular transfer (molten metal balls up before transferring to the weldment - panel) and move fast. try to fill the gap quickly and with good penetration. depending on the size of the weld and how much distortion you can have, weld one inch at a time... it goes slow but you have less body work to deal with later.

    http://www.classicgm.com/bedfloor/

    there may be better ways to do this but that is what i've figured out so far. my welding background is in heavy guage steel and aluminum which requires a much different technique.
     

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