Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Rusted brake bleeders...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Calclips, Jul 27, 2003.

  1. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    I wanted to bleed the brakes on my K20 (D44, but you knew that already) today, but the bleeders are rusted to the calipers. The bleeder itself is so rusted that it just wants to fall apart when I put a wrench to it. Is it okay to heat a brake caliper, as I was thinking that could help. Is there anything else I can do, short of getting new calipers?

    Thanks a lot,
    Dan
     
  2. TruckNutzDude

    TruckNutzDude 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2003
    Posts:
    3,532
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Agawam, MA
    I say no, just because I'm pretty sure brake fluid is flamable. I'd just spend the extra cash and buy new calipers, if things are that rusty it might be time to replace them anyways. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  3. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2002
    Posts:
    5,236
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lehigh Acres, Florida
    try soaking them in blaster and using vice grips?
     
  4. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    I kinda agree with that dude whos nutz about trucks... if I'm gonna have to take them off I'll probably try and pick up some used calipers that are in better condition. I was hoping that somebody was gonna tell me it was okay to put heat on the calipers... because I didn't think it sounded like a good idea.
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,178
    Likes Received:
    1,387
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    The heat fries the seals inside/forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Calipers are about $25 each at most parts places, certainly not worth messing with.

    Rene
     
  6. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2001
    Posts:
    1,056
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Vermont
    I've done it a few times with "alittle" heat. Haven't lost the seals, BUT I'm fully aware this could happen if it got too warm. My best too for stuck bleeders is a deep six point socket that fits the bleeder screw, stuck on one of those impact drivers (the type you hit with a hammer). Some penitrant and a few taps with the driver usually works. If not some mild heat, some crossed fingers, and alittle harder whacks. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2002
    Posts:
    7,324
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Grass Valley, CA
    Hmm..

    Autozone calipers are $15. Whenever I strip/break a bleeder screw or have caliper problems, I just go get a new one. I tried rebuilding one once.....Never again. Not worth the time and effort required, when you can get a new one as cheap as they are.
     
  8. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2003
    Posts:
    1,129
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Tyrone, PA
    I am having the same problem in the back. Unfortunatly in order to replace the rear cylinder I need to dismantle the rear brakes...yuck. But that's not all folks, the steel line is seized to the fitting and turns with it twisting. that line is in turn seized to the rubber line block, which is seized to the steel line which goes partway down the frame and finally connects to new line. So the easy $30 cylinder replacement turns into 2 cylinders, 3 pieces of seel line and a rubber line and starts to not look so cheap /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  9. fatboy

    fatboy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2003
    Posts:
    290
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Tennesse
    load it up with a good penitrating oil and let sit for hours and try along with the above tips /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif there is a penitrent made by Zepp that is called corosion X. this is the best stuff I have used. it must have smurffs and all that stuff in it to make it work so well. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  10. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2002
    Posts:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Frankfort In
    i use PB blaster and heat. but the best [I love Jeeps] ive ever used is called KROIL....it was made for the govmnt for boeing. we had some sittin in a coffee can over nite and it seeped through the bottom of the can where it was crimped together....it had a small ring around it on the cement. i aint ever seen n e thing else go through such a tight space

    NITRO
     
  11. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    3,270
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Delafield, Wisconsin
    [hijack] So, if heating a caliper around the bleeder screw will damage seals, wouldn't grinding them (to fit 15" wheels) destroy the seals, etc? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif [/end hijack]
     
  12. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2001
    Posts:
    1,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    hmmmmm... interesting point. But... don't brakes also get very hot during normal operation? I would think that heating them with a torch would get them way hotter than normal use... but grinding may not.
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,178
    Likes Received:
    1,387
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    I've never ground next to the bleeders before.../forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Rene
     
  14. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    3,270
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Delafield, Wisconsin
    Oh, I didn't know there were seals right at the bleeder. I thought we were talking about the piston and all that good stuff. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  15. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 30, 2002
    Posts:
    1,778
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Spokane Washington
    Since their already Boogered, smack em with a hammer, then try a wrench or the Dicey Visey Grip's. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  16. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,178
    Likes Received:
    1,387
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    The seals are closer to the bleeder than they are to the surface ground for clearance...

    Heat em up and spin em out...what do you have to lose? If you fry the seals get new calipers. If you break the bleeder off anyways, get new calipers. If the bleeder comes out and the seals don't get wrecked you just spent a couple of hours pissing around with calipers worth no more than $15 each...

    It's your call, I personally have better things to do with my time./forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Rene
     

Share This Page