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rusted K5 - when is it dangerous?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by wazzabie, Aug 21, 2005.

  1. wazzabie

    wazzabie 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I've got rust all over the bottom of the K5. Both the lower outer and inter fender wells.... rust on shocks, springs, bumpers, tail pipes are bad, frame has rust just surface, it has cancer all over the sheet metal even where the 70's molding is. I didn't realize just how bad it is. Yet it still hold together. What should I be concerned about. Are rust on springs OK? I may need to secure the seats in better. The frame is solid but I can put my hand through the frame rails. When is it unsafe to drive with all this rust?
     
  2. stockk5

    stockk5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    im gonna say that if your seat mounts/seatbelt mounts are reallly rusty.. then yes, thats a big problem. cuz if your seatbelt/seats rip out then thats not safe...
     
  3. masterbeavis

    masterbeavis Registered Member

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    fly to cali and buy a rust free one for $1000 and drive it home. You will be the king of the mud drags. :D I have seen cars with cancer sooo bad that the owner used OSB plywood to patch the damage. IMO, if your frame has large holes in it, and the floor is rotted out badly, its time to shoot it and buy another. depending on year, you can find a rust free one for relativley cheap if you are not looking for a show queen.
     
  4. 4wheelin4Jesus

    4wheelin4Jesus 1/2 ton status

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    check all your body mounts. if your rig is rusted bad around where the bolt goes thru the body, and connects to the frame, then youve got big problems as well. Like already mentioned, the seatbelt mounts, and seat mounts are also a major concern. Ive heard storries of old mustangs driving down the road, and body parts flying off because of the concerns listed above.
    good luck,
    Mike
     
  5. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    Break out the sawzall and go TRUGGY! :D
     
  6. wazzabie

    wazzabie 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Yea some body mounts look bad. Is this a easy repair? What if I just keep going as is?
     
  7. 4wheelin4Jesus

    4wheelin4Jesus 1/2 ton status

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    Its a game of russian roulete. Nothing at all may happen. But, take this scenario, if you get in an accident, and all thats holding the seats and seatbelts in is a rusted floor, they can break loose, and you know the rest. Im right in the middle of replacing my rusted floor in my 78. Its not the most fun, but, after i coat it with rust bullet, and a bedliner, i should be good to go for a long time. If you dont want to replace the rusted floor, and still drive it, I guess you could fabricate brackets to attach the seatbelts and seats to the frame. Or, when the floor falls in, you can do the Fred Flinstone.
     
  8. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    it will become very clear just how dangerous it is when your seat hits the pavement,.....do something before that situation comes to light. :D
     
  9. anjieandjohn

    anjieandjohn Registered Member

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    I have an 85 and it is rusted to hell in the typical places...rocker panels...rear quarter...the frame on the other hand is solid and has very little rust (considering the age and area I live in) with no holes anywhere. My floor area around the seats has some rust but I am going to be replacing all of the floor pans eventually as well as some of the really bad body panels. I dont want to spend the money and time and burn a week's worth of leave going to CA or AZ just to find a rust free truck and drive it back home. Between the cost of the plane ticket, the truck, and gas....I think it might be cheaper to fix yours. Just my two cents worth.... :thinking:
     
  10. wubba_65

    wubba_65 Registered Member

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    Yeah, I was in the same spot you're in. My frame is rusted bad where the rear tailpan used to sit (it rotted completely away, the only thing left were the thicker sections that reenforce the tailgate support and the bolts to the frame (body mount).

    I have ripped out my entire rear floor, cut out all of the rust in the front section (in front of the drop). I'm putting in 1/4" steel plate for a new floor (heavy, but solid!), I have a new tailpan, and I'm going to patch the front with the good metal from my old floor. I'm also going to extend the back bed to the back of the front seats, and use the floor area for the rear passengers as storage area (cut an opening and hinge it). The back seat is not going back in (not in the stock mounting place anyways), and I'm going to put in eyebolts (nuts welded to the bottom of the floor in various locations (8) and 4 eyebolts so that I can make different cargo carrying configurations, or remove them all if I want to put something flat on the floor (like a matress!!).

    I had to replace my shocks, because they were rusted out. Well worth the money to do it when you have the floor ripped out, as it's easier access. I also dropped the gas tank, removed the filler neck, etc, sanded it all down (including the skid plate, but only cause I wanted it to look purty) and painted it all black, looks brand new again. I sanded down the frame where I could, still have a bit more to do, and painted it all with rust inhibiting paint.

    I have to cut off the frame rails BEHIND the spring perches, and weld on new ones that I picked up (thanks for the tips found on here about welding frame rails), I'll have them sanded down and painted as well. I found a donor K5 that had been burned out, I grabbed the entire back end off of it. The tailgate posts on mine were bunk as well, so I am cutting off the entire bedside (inner and outer fenders) about 1/4 of the way up the wheel well, and grafting on the new ones (easier than trying to rebuild posts and mounting points for the new tailpan). Once that is done I'll remount the gas tank, put in the floor permenantly, and Rhino line the entire interior. I already did the inner wheel wells and they look great. My truck was in an accident (I figure) with the PO, and the entire front end was rebuilt, and a new crate motor (350) about 35,000 Km ago with Documentation to prove it (installed at local GM dealership). It'll be a sweet ride when done, and then I just have to fix the rest of the exterior rust (rockers, some on doors that just have to be sanded down, and front of rear quarters). Paint, and then start accessorizing.

    I'm putting in all of this for less than $600 by doing it myself. A lot of hard work, but I love it, and it'll be well worth it to see the results when I am done.
     
  11. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    When you give up on the rusty tub ( that shouldn't of been in AZ to begin with :p: ) for a non rusty one .......... and your buddy and yourself can lift the body off the frame without touching a single body mount bolt , then its dangerous :D
     
  12. 89K5guy

    89K5guy 1/2 ton status

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    My buddy and I are currently replacing the floor pans and cargo area pans.I also have to replace the tail panel.I have over $700 in just sheetmetal :eek1: If you can find a K5 in better condition ,buy it!It also depends on what you plan to use the blazer for.If you just use it as a winter beater then fix only what you NEED.If you are going to trail it then start cutting.If you want to restore it then buy a winning lottery ticket! :D
     
  13. wazzabie

    wazzabie 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    If you have some pics of the boby work I sure would like to see.
     

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