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Rusty frame, what paint to use?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ChevBlazin, Mar 12, 2003.

  1. ChevBlazin

    ChevBlazin 1/2 ton status

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    This actually pertains to my CJ7 cause their frames are boxed and always rust, unlike a K5. Anyways, after I strenghten some areas I am looking for a good coating. Many people tell me to just brush on rustoleum, but I want a durable tough coating. I know por-15 is supposed to be good, but is it worth the money? there is the posibility that it might get driven in the winter from time to time so I want to protect it the best I can from road salt. What kind of paint have you guys used?
     
  2. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    POR-15 is the best, hands down. They have a pretty good website. If that's too expensive, you might want to look into industrial/ implement paint.
     
  3. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    I know a guy who POR-15'd his 1950 International truck frame and has been driving it every day for over 3 years in MN (salty winter roads and all). He swears by it and has no rust after 3 years of daily driving.
     
  4. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I sandblasted my frame and then POR-15'ed it. I did two coats of POR-15 and then a coat of the POR-15 chassis black. I was very pleased with it and it came out looking like I powdercoated it for much less cost. See it here:
    http://community.webshots.com/user/douglasgrant
     
  5. RedBrute

    RedBrute 1/2 ton status

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    I have done the frame and axles on my Blazer with POR15. It's been 2 years of rain road salt and slush and it's holding up better than anything I've ever used. It is almost impossible to treat the frame as outlined in the literature supplied, but I still have gotten good results. I would recommend buying in the "sixpac" size. I bought a quart once and didn't use it all at once. When I went back to use it it had hardened in the can... wasted about 1/3 of it.
     
  6. MJB774X

    MJB774X 1/2 ton status

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    por 15 is quite pricey, I use a primer called rust destroyer, its that red oxide color, then paint it with a paint called hammerite, paint on only, they have it spray cans but it chips off after a while, I don't know though last time I checked por 15 was expensive, maybe not now, plus I have never used it, might be worth the $$$?, everyoneelse likes it
     
  7. nofeartruckin00

    nofeartruckin00 1/2 ton status

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    Do you have a guess as to how much por-15 it took to do just the frame?
     
  8. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    It took one quart of regular POR-15 and then one quart of chassis black. The regular POR-15 was thinner even though it hardened rather thick after two coats. The reason you go with a top coat of chassis black, or gloss black if you prefer, is that the regular POR-15 is sensitive to UV rays. So, you top coat it so that it doesn't fade. It is pricey, but well worth it in my opinion. Much cheaper than powdercoat and you can touch it up. With powdercoat, your touchup might be spraying on some Krylon and hoping it doesn't peel, but you wouldn't dissassemble the rig again just to fix a boo boo. With the POR-15 you can always grab a brush and paint over a scrape.

    I also did my Corp14 with two coats of POR-15 and a top coat of gloss black POR-15. I am going to do my interior floor with POR-15 and top coat it with a primer for later Line-X covering. I plan on doing the underside as well as the engine compartment. The stuff is like iron when it dries.
     
  9. nofeartruckin00

    nofeartruckin00 1/2 ton status

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    It looks great! Almost like it's off a showroom floor clean, wow.
     
  10. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    FYI, you don't have to top coat it when the parts being painted are chassis parts. They don't (normally) get enough direct UV exposure to matter.

    MISF used POR15 on his Scout at least 7 years ago. He did the frame, axle housings, uderside of the body, tub interior, bumpers, engine bay, wheels......
    The only place that the paint has ever gone chalky looking is the top sides of the bumpers and the outer surfaces of the wheels.
    He has actually used POR15 to seal pinhole leaks in two fabricated fuel tanks. If you dig into the directions they say you can use it like fibreglas resin. I have 'repaired' bed rust holes with it by painting the rusty surfaces, and then wetted out some fibreglas mat and stuck it in place.

    FWIW, POR15 cures better in a mildly damp environment. It actually sprinkled on the fresh paint in the rear portion of his tub. That is some of the hardest paint on the truck. And you can see the droplet marks in it....

    POR's Engine paint is awesome stuff too.
     
  11. Blaze

    Blaze 1/2 ton status

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    I did the chassis of my S-10 Blazer with Rustoleum. I got a can of semi-gloss black, lifted the body off the frame, then sanded it and brushed on a bunch of thick coats of Rustoleum. I have had it like that for 3 years and it still looks good. I am a poor boy and can't afford the POR15.
     

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