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Sawzall + Grade 8 bolts = lots of dead blades

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by SS66, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. SS66

    SS66 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys, I havent been here in awhile Everything looks WAY different. Anyhoo, I got a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt that I need to cut with a sawzall. ( no I do not have access to a torch ) I purchased 10 Milwaukee Metal blades rated to 1/4 inch. Well all 10 of them didnt even make it completely through.. I had to bust the remainder loose. Anyway what Im getting at is does anyone know of any QUALITY blades that will actually last? I thought Milwaukee would be good but I guess I was wrong.

    Thanks!
     
  2. 3rdshiftdesign

    3rdshiftdesign 1/2 ton status

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    I use the Dewalt bi-metal blades for bolts, sheet metal, etc. works pretty good. and If I just need to tear some **** up, I get the Milwaukee "AX" blade, not that great for metal, but it tears **** up.
     
  3. SS66

    SS66 1/2 ton status

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    Im thinking about buying a grinder and getting some cutoff wheels. Ive never used one but I imagine its a better bet than the sawzall
     
  4. 3rdshiftdesign

    3rdshiftdesign 1/2 ton status

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    Just make sure you get good grinding discs with your grinder.
     
  5. 79_hootie_k5

    79_hootie_k5 Registered Member

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    Lenox blades are the best ones I have used.
     
  6. Cricket

    Cricket 3/4 ton status

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    Blu-Mol Xtream Demolition and Rescue Blade.

    That worked for me.
     
  7. i8yrsuv

    i8yrsuv 1/2 ton status

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    Hi five on the replies with the good blades ! Sawalls are good where no sparks are needed . Get a grinder with a cutoff wheel ,that will rock !!! harbor freight has them on sale for under $ 20.00 .
     
  8. SS66

    SS66 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys.. I dont know if Im going to invest in blades or just get a grinder. In the end they will both be about the same price ( cheap grinder )

    :)
     
  9. JSH

    JSH Registered Member

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    I have had good luck with Morse brand blades-especially the Fire and Rescue line. However, grinder with a 1/16 cutoff wheel has worked best for me with cutting larger bolts or an air cutoff tool.
     
  10. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i buy the dewalt 18 TPI bi metal blades in a 10 pack for like $10, they work great and last somewhat, and the best part is they are cheap.

    for demolition i have a milwaulkee 14" demolition blade with a variable tooth count. i can go threw lots of stuff fast. my buddy and i were cutting an old camper trailer off for the frame. he had a 6" metal blade on his and i had my demolition blade on mine. we started on the same time at the front and worked our way back. i was done with my side before he got half way and he had the side with the door.
    it was all aluminum with wook paneling under the siding and the inside.
     
  11. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    Has anyone ever used the blades that have grinding grit (like a grinding wheel is made of) instead of teeth? How do they work?
     
  12. gambit420s

    gambit420s 1/2 ton status

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    Lenox is the best for fine line cutting through most metals

    Magna Demolition blades are very good for hacking, i have a two pack that has sent 7-8 cars to the shredder, with more to go.... Lifetime warranty too!

    Metabo or Tyrolit blades/wheels for cutting/grinding

    Grit, AlOx are really only for cast iron, stone, brick, fiberglass and other small particle material, they dont have the chip removal for solid materials like steel or aluminum

    Cut slow, and use a lubricant, ie: wd-40, oil, atf, theres some really good stuff called STICK-CUT thats in a grease tube package w/a wax like consistancy works good in all positions. Good blades work. let them do the work dont force them, you can cut 100s of ft with a crappy blade or you can toast 10 good ones on 1 bolt, its all up to you

    i distribute stuff like this and can give you guys some good deals if shipping doesnt kill it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2005
  13. WhiteBurb

    WhiteBurb 1/2 ton status

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    I got a 10 pack of 18TPI blades from Lowes, don't know the brand. But anyways, they cut right through a tie rod with no drama.
     
  14. velocitiii

    velocitiii Registered Member

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    Those blades with the "grit" on them are excelent for HARD metal. The ones we use will cut through grade 8 bolts and locks just fine.
     
  15. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    never used the gritty blades but a couple of guys were right when they recommended Lenox brand blades.. all sawzall blades are not created equal! The milwaukee blades are junk IMO.. Go w/ Lenox...

    mike
     
  16. toomanytoyzz

    toomanytoyzz Registered Member

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    I know you said you have no access to a torch, but if you stick with working on cars I'd highly recommend investing in one. They make life so much easier when you're dealing with stubborn bolts. The sparkle wrench has saved my sanity time and time again.
     
  17. darkshadow

    darkshadow 1 ton status

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    few years ago Milwaukee was hands down the best,

    but they seamed to have truned to crap, so we baught every blade on the markit EVERONE, then we when out and got another 50 pack of Milwaukee, because even though they arent top noch anymore there still the best.

    used to make ornamntal iron fence and railing ect. and we cut a lot of stuff on site with the sawls all belive me
     
  18. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've tried all kinds...

    I've used Milwaukee blades,Black and Decker,Bosch,and many "dollar" blades I bought at flea markets and swap meets for a buck apeice..the best of the "cheapies" were a brand called "Aggressor" ,they seemed to cut good and outlast the other brands quite a bit...havent seen any around lately though,the guy I get them from must have retired or croaked! :blush:

    I settled on Lenox blades after I had one given to me and it lasted so long I thought it was titanium or something!--I cut up whole truck frames with 1 blade,and even after I folded it in half and snapped the "chuck" end off,I was able to bash it with a hammer straight again,and I ground a new "tab" on the chuck end,and clamped it back in and sawed even more stuff with it!....Then the clincher was when I learned thats what the Fire department here uses on their sawsall for rescue work...the only bummer is they are pricey--but like anything else you get what you pay for,and they outlast many cheaper blades 3 to 1,so in the end its actually cheaper to buy the "good" stuff...

    Same goes for cutoff wheels and grinding discs--3M brand is best,but also costs the most--but they are worth the money!..the thinner,the better when cutting bolts...using a grinding wheel to cut bolts works,but strains the motor badly,and leads to early failure...

    I've been using my arc welder to cut up some heavy (1/4") frame beams!--since I'm better at blowing holes in stuff than welding it with the arc welder,I figured I'd try it as a cutting device....I soaked some 6011 rods in water for a few minites,and cranked it up to 200 amps...I was able to cut 3-4 " before it tripped the curcuit breaker,had I a better 220V source,I'd be using it more than my torches to cut the heavy stuff up--they make cutting electrodes that work decent too,but are costly...makes an arc welder into a hilbilly plasma cutter!...it works amazingly well for how crude a setup it is..and no oxogen to run out of when the welding shops are closed... :crazy:
     
  19. gambit420s

    gambit420s 1/2 ton status

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    i didnt have much luck with grit blades on some 4340 1" sq bar but a 24tpi lenox blade made 4 cuts and still looked ok

    and "locks"? most are only case hardened for shock resistance
     
  20. garlicbreath

    garlicbreath 1/2 ton status

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