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SBC water pump - stupid question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jms, May 4, 2003.

  1. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    Please bear with me - I have a stupid question about chevy small block water pumps:
    The port up top - is it on the flow (pressure) side or is it a return port? Can I run the heater from there?
    I'd like to use the manifold port from which I run the heater for a temp sensor to run my electric fans.
    Input's greatly appreciated, thanks, michael
     
  2. Okiemuddog

    Okiemuddog 1/2 ton status

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    I believe, don't quote me, that it is on the pressure side and you should have no problem running a heater hose off of it. Come to think about it I know you can, some on the later model pumps ran the heater from the pump to the core instead the manifold. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Krennen
     
  3. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    I wondered the same thing when I changed my radiator to the type with a coolant return hose. My heater hose WAS plumbed from the manifold, through the core, to the water pump. That leads me to belive that it is a return port, being that the intake manifold port is a discharge. I needed a place to put a temp sender, so I thought I'd go from the pump, through the heater core, and return to the radiator. But since the intake manifold port is a discharge, I realized that that didn't really make any sense. I ended up having to buy a water neck with a 1/2" NPT fitting to screw my temp sender into. That's probably what you'll have to do. I tried putting it into the port on the pump, but it was too long to screw in all the way. The water neck I picked up at Kragen for like $12 or so.
    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  4. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the cooling fans should not be activated from the engine temp.

    the correct location to trigger fans is the cold side of the rad.
     
  5. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I agree with M.J.
    If you sence the temp of the block your fans will never shut off and run your battery down. Some radiators have extra taps but if your doesn't, you could have a good radiator shop put one in. The D A$$ that had my truck before me drilled a hole in the top of the radiator and soidered it in /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif. I have replaced the radiator since then. Good luck. So why the fans? Don't you have the stock set-up anymore? Mine are wired to a switch as a back up and I don't sence temp. anymore, just switch on when needed.
     
  6. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    m j, Dave, thanks for the input. Sensor placement on the cool side makes sense to me, although one could argue that is a matter of the temp window the sensor is set at.

    I'm going over my cooling system after the truck overheated the other day - culprit was a defective PermaCool temp sensor relay. I've been running electric fans exclusively - no belt-driven fan at all. For the most I've been happy with it - it's been working fine, even with temps in the 100's, city stop'n go traffic, and AC on high (I think my temp problem at BB'02 was due to the carb dumping WAY too much fuel as a result of the power piston retainer being loose). The PermaCool temp sensor relay the other day just went 'splat' and started smoking like hell - despite fuses in every line /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif.

    I need a new temp sensor (probably from Painless Wiring), and I'll be using 'generic' relays to wire everything so I can throw a few of these in my boonie box as insurance. I suppose a new radiator couldn't hurt either, the rad was 'cleaned' when I got the truck six years ago. I'm also looking into the Lincoln Mark VIII fan, but everytime someone does a writeup, the amp draw of that fan increases - now we're at 100 amps /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     

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