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Setting up to Re-Weld Spring Perches

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dawson444, Jul 1, 2001.

  1. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    I am getting a 14 bolt out of a 1 ton truck so I am going to have to get the spring perches rewelded. I am going to grind off the old ones grind the welds off of them. Should I then bolt the axle loosely upto the truck w/ the spring perches sitting on the axle? My main question is how do I know how far up to point the axle to get the pinion angle right? I am going to be running a 6" or 7" lift so I think if I point it up a little it will help w/ vibrations and everything, but I'm not sure. What's the best way to figure it out? I am not running a CV shaft but that might change one day. Should I just get the guy to tack weld it on then there, then unbolt the axle and get him to put a bead all the way down it? Thanks!

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  2. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yeah, install everything loosely and 'eyeball' the angle. Then when you get it where you want, tack it and have someone who knows their welding stuff do the complete welding.

    <font color=red>I m so we Todd did.
    I m sofa king we Todd did.</font color=red>
     
  3. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    What do you mean "eyeball it"? I can tack weld it on there. Think I should load the huge 14 bolt up into my trailer and take it somewhere to have it welded or have the welder come to the axle? I've never had anything professionally welded. Is it going to be worth my hassle to load the thing up and take it to someone to have it welded? I don't know how much they charge to come out to your house, but it might be easier and a whole cheaper just to throw the thing in the trailer again.

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    No, I mean after you get the perches off, sit them loosely back on the tubes and sit the truck back on the rearend. Get a floor jack under the pinion and jack it up until you get the desired angle you want. Once you have it where you are comfy with it, tack it and remove it and then take it to someone to weld it. Do the last step only if you are not comfortable with welding cast perches to the steel tubes.

    <font color=red>I m so we Todd did.
    I m sofa king we Todd did.</font color=red>
     
  5. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    I understand everything except how do I know what my "desired angle" is?

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  6. scrapmetal

    scrapmetal 1/2 ton status

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    uh, dont mean to bitch, but ya dont have to unless it was out of a dually. Mine was out of a 1-ton too and it bolts right up to the original perches, all ya need are the u-bolts and the u-bolt plates, even the e-brake lines hook up the same. As for the angle, dont eyeball get a angle finder and measure your current angle of the axle yoke, right that down, then find out what degree a six or eight inch lift block is degreed, mine was a four inch, which is four degrees, I added that to the stock and there ya go, The only reason to reweld is to put taller ones out of heavy gauge square tubing mine is made out of 3/8x 2 1/2 inch square tubing and I measured the length of the old ones and added a inch to the overall length, I made mine 1 inch higher and rewelded mine back on at stock, then put a 4 degree shim in. in case I for some lame reason I ever want to go back to stock(whatever) I would have them set up for stock springs. I have a 14FF and a Dana 60 and have had mine in four five years, and have wheeled the hell out of it and never had a problem with any of it, They say you should cap off the ends of the square tubing but i never did and have never had any problems with it mushrooming on me, and I run 38's with 1-ton spring in the rear and a 4 inch spring in the front, with the higher spring pad of the dana 60 it evened it out great, if you have need of any more info e-mail me, as this has been my hobby for 20 years, and I like to help people out as much as I can, plus I am trying to build my rep on this site as a reputable person of knowledge, as I recently bought a computer. My Blazer has everything you can imagine done to it, crossover steering, onboard air, an endless list,, anyways e-mail me if ya need any more info, but please dont grind those pads off, you'll use three wheels and like on my first you'll eat into the axle housing, beg borrow or steal a gas axe and cut them off, then grind off the slag, that is if you really feel you need to cut them off,, measure twice,,,cut once,, trust me,,

    Never been stuck, just temporarily delayed.
    When in doubt,,, put'er to the wood
     
  7. Gold Rush

    Gold Rush 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, your from my neck of the woods!! I recently moved from Newport, WA to California. I had just joined a new club in Priest River, ID before I left. There is a full size Chevy club in Spokane but they are mostly for mud.

    David 75K5

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.extremeblazer.com>http://www.extremeblazer.com</A>


    [image]http://www.extremeblazer.com/sideapproachL.jpg[/image]
     
  8. MaxCrack

    MaxCrack 1/2 ton status

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    As far as the angles go, the axle yoke should either be at the same angle as the transfer case yoke (+/- 2 degrees) or pointing directly at the transfer case yoke. For the lift you are going to be running I would suggest pointing it at the transfer case.

    Don't forget, if you set it up, then put the lift on, the angles will be slightly off.

    That's because I'm the devil.
     
  9. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Hey Scrap,

    Just want to let you know that all 14bolts from 1 TONS (non dually) will need the perches moved and the shock mounts for that matter. 73 to 91' K5s have different perch width (like 42.5" or so. The 1 tons are 40" or so. 69 to 72' K5s will accept the 1 ton 14s with no perch move.
    I have a 14bolt from a 1ton and I actually grinded the perches off and reused them too. If you're careful, you can reuse them and also, not grind into the tube. Use a regular griding disk and grind the weld. Then use the thin kind (I have to look and see exactly what I used), but it was the thin disk and I grinded under the perch to break the weld underneath and then pounded it off with my 3lb sledge. Hope I'm making sense so far.

    Lastly, best way to figure out the angle is to have it under your truck and resting on jacks with your springs on the perches. Make sure it's centered.
    Now, measure the angle of the pinion with an angle finder and now measure the angle of you TCase. Make sure they match exactly...or no more than. Then weld the sucker up.

    This is what I did, and I still have the stock Dshaft with no vibes at all. After 75mph, I start to get some though. CVshafts are in my future :)
    Boss


    89' 1 TON of FUN K5
     
  10. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    My T case is lowered would this be a good time to put it back in the stock location? I really don't like it being lowered. If I make it higher, then point the axle pinion at the t case and weld the perches even if the t case is in the stock location will I more than likely be vibe free? Am I making sense? Also how do I measure the angles? Thanks!

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 4" lift, 33" BFG muds
     
  11. tyler t.

    tyler t. 1/2 ton status

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    I think the best thing for you to do as far as the welding goes would be to take it to someone and have them use a "stick" welder to attach it for you. If you have them come out its not going to be cheap trust me I am a welder. If you take it in it should cost you no more than $50-60 at the most provided that you have measurements or something to work with for placement. You can also save yourself some $$$ by cutting off the old perches and cleaning up the area to be welded real well yourself. Good luck.

    JEEP it's what's for dinner!
     
  12. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    This one hits me too, I will be in the same boat too (sooner or later)

    I've got a 220 mig welder at home. Do you all think this will be O.K.? I can throw down a pretty good bead, as long as I put some heat to it. How should I weld the perches on, weld a 1/2"-to an inch, let it cool, then weld again? How much do I have to worry about worping the axle tube? (The tube looks to be a good 1/2" thick)

    To the original poster (dawson444), Glad you asked. Good info here! I'am not looking to steal the post, just thought we could knock out two birds with one stone.

    Twiztid

    Ohh yeah, I'd recomend pointing the pinion angle down slighlghtly (like 1 deg. or so), because when the gear set is loaded, the pinion angle will/should change and bring the drive line angle back into spec. Does anyone agree with that? Or are the stock rear springs too short and have too much of a spring rate to allow the pinion angle to change?

    Thanks- too all!

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Twiztid on 07/02/01 07:37 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  13. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, you want to point the rear down 1-2 degrees below 0. This will allow for axles wrap/torque when giving it gas, which is most of the time. It may still vibe just a C hair on the coast.
    As far as the T-case lowering. If you are going to be a with a 6" lift adn not have the T-case lowered, you are going to want to go to a CV shafted driveshaft. You can get away with it with the shims and lowering the t-case adn maybe some rear perch adjusting. But it will not be the same as going 2 below 0 and get a CV shaft weather you go slip yoke Eliminator or get the CV slip from Tom Woody.
    VIBRATIONS SUCK!!!!! Vibrations BAD!!!!! Beer GOOD!!!!!
    tRusty, you can have your soap box back![​IMG]

    HELP! I'm under my truck and I can't reach my beer![​IMG]
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  14. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    With that lift your going to be better off running a CV style joint. put the case back stock and take a string and get the pinion pointed right at the back of the case yoke. The extra lenght of the CV will account for about 1 deg of down angle. Also you must do this with the weight of the truck on the axle. So loose assemble with a jack under the pinion. Tack it and roll it out to finsh the weld. As long as you make good welds your fine doing it your self. Now as for the purch width everybody is arguing about. a 14 from a 3/4 ton has the purches at the correct width. a 14 out of a 1 ton needs to be moved. 1 tons have different frames and mounts.

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</A>

    Grim-Reaper
     
  15. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, someone was telling me the other day that I should remove all diff gear lube from the axle housing before you start welding on it? Is the really necessary?


    If first you dont suceed......GETA BIGGER HAMMER!! [​IMG][​IMG]
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  16. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    When I welded mine up, I had about 1 quart of gear oil in there. I don't think I ran into any problems. I guess I can see why you wouldn't want any gear oil in there before you weld it up, b/c man, it reallllyyyy gets hot. I guess, to be safe, drain your oil first, then weld.
    Boss

    89' 1 TON of FUN K5
     
  17. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Boss. I take it Rene's school of PM welding classes have paid off?
    Im currently enrolled. That damn Rene is a heck of a guy, I just wish he would quit staring at my...... lectric mirrors.[​IMG]

    If first you dont suceed......GETA BIGGER HAMMER!! [​IMG][​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  18. tyler t.

    tyler t. 1/2 ton status

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    Try and get the area as clean as you can..... the more contaminents there are around the weaker your weld is going to be. Hit the area that you are going to weld and a good amount of the surrounding area with a grinder to remove any unseen junk. Spending a good amount of prep time will save you from having to grind it out and start over later when you get [censored] in your weld. As far as draining the fluid I would definitely suggest draining it, because by the time you get done heating it up to about 1500 degrees it is going to be about as usefull as water in there anyway. Just my $.02.

    JEEP it's what's for dinner!
     
  19. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    10-4

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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