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shackle flip?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dumbfounded, May 27, 2000.

  1. dumbfounded

    dumbfounded 1/2 ton status

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    I've read about the shackle flip and decription on the site. I'm still a little confused on why to use it. My 1978 project is just that a "project". It's basically road ready but it's going to be right or not at all. It's got a 4" lift with the blocks in the back. With the flip I can lose the blocks correct? Since I haven't driven this particular truck yet what will be the difference in certain situations ie: 4 wheelin, general hwy driving, towing a boat.... what about pinion angle will that change as well.... Just a few questions..... The only full size blazer I've driven was an '89 and I don't remember too much about it other than it liked to drift down the road and it bucked due to the short wheel base (I guess).....

    Blood, sweat, tears, and lots of money is what keeps the k5 alive.
     
  2. Kodiak

    Kodiak 1/2 ton status

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    I am also confused as to the advantage of a flip. Does it give more articulation(one tire up and the other down), axle movement(one tire going forward and the other going backward), better driveshaft alignment, less driveshaft movement at full droop than a spring/block lift? Does it have any effect on axle wrap?
     
  3. chevy4x4

    chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    i don t know a lot either but i know that you will have more articulation and axle woarp will be a lot less.
    Chevy
     
  4. Kodiak

    Kodiak 1/2 ton status

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    Next question is why? What makes the spring behave diffrently?
     
  5. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Man o man, not this again....

    The shackle flip will net you aprox 4" of lift, you will gain more articulation & I feel that the ride quality has improved. As far as towing a boat, I towed a 88.5 Sami from Ohio to NC after doing my flip. I also almost jack knifed the truck due to some idiot and was still able to recover it, so I believe that the handling is still 100%. I've also had the truck sideways on pavement with no adverse concquences.

    Hope this helps. If not, steve has the information on his site you can read or check my site. Its the same information for the most part.

    Corey
    88K5

    [​IMG]<font color=red>Girls Like Guys In Bow Ties
    http://www.geocities.com/corey_perez
     
  6. Kodiak

    Kodiak 1/2 ton status

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    Ok. I know I'll get 4 inches of lift and I know how to do it. What I don't know and can't find explained is why to pick this over new springs as they will give lift and more articulation (some will that is) than the stock spring. How does the flip make a spring that doesn't articulate into one that does? Why is ride quality better than with new springs? It's not that I don't believe you but I would like to know the reason to choose it over new springs. I would assume it is not money.
     
  7. dumbfounded

    dumbfounded 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry about bringing it up again Corey hense the name "dumb"founded. Your advice was helpful. What about strength I assume the flip kit is a little stronger material than stock but will the geometry change cause more stress than the stock set up?

    Blood, sweat, tears, and lots of money is what keeps the k5 alive.
     
  8. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    dumbfounded,


    On my flip I used all stock components. The pic's on my site show what I did and the ones on steve's site show pretty much the same thing. I've got some new pic's that I'm going to put on my site. My current problem is Windows SUCKS & my computer keeps giving me the "blue screen of death". Given the chance, I'd LOVE to wrap the cable of my winch around bill gates neck and see just how tight I can get it... Anyway...

    As far as angles, I had to use a shim to tilt the pinion down AND I used a CV shaft in the rear. As far as why the articulation is better, I'm guessing it has something to do with the fact that the rear shackle swings easier when under tension. Think of it this way: What would be easier, Standing on the upward swing of a swingset, pushing a child and than "swinging the swing down (the way you push a child on a swing set). Or being on the upward swing and trying to push down, to get it to swing up? Basically If I haven't confused you too bad, the reason is because the compression of the spring is going in the direction of least resistance. I'm sure ORD's product is stronger than what I've did, but for the Free price tag, I have no complaints.

    If you have any more questions, repost...


    Kodiak,

    The reason the articulation is better is because when its trying to flex, it (suspension) is not fighting against each other. The best way to get more articulation would be the flip and new springs. Best of luck.


    Corey
    88K5

    [​IMG]<font color=red>Girls Like Guys In Bow Ties
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  9. Kodiak

    Kodiak 1/2 ton status

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    I must be slow or maybe I've worked too much this week but I still don't know why a flip is better than new springs. Am I just missing something here or do I need more sleep?

    Or is this just an issue when debating using blocks for lift?
     
  10. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    The idea behind the flip is you can use flatter springs for your lift.for example with the 4" flip you can use 2" lift springs and net a total of 6" lift.This will give you a softer ride than with a large arched 6" spring.ALso lift blocks create leaverage on the springs witch inturn creates axlewrap.axlewrap is when the spring loads up and releases.It makes you springs look like an s laying sideways.This happens quickly and puts alot of presure on your U-joints.The down side I see to the flip is you loose down travel compared to the stock shackle.The best way would be a shackle flip with the brackets moved forward on the frame and flat springs with longer shackles.So when the truck is on level ground the shackle end connected to the spring is behind the end connected to the flip bracket.This would give you down travel and up travel.Hope this helps.I need to get a scanner so I can so some pics.(Picture are worth a 1000 words!)BRADY
     
  11. Bigd

    Bigd 1/2 ton status

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    I did the ORD shackle flip and my shackles do slant towards the back about 2 inchs at rest.
     
  12. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    What kind of springs are you using? All of the rigs I have seen with the flip have the shackle straight up and down.This gives up travel and limits down travel with arched springs.Are your springs longer than stock or 56"ers.Brady
     
  13. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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  14. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    Another article comparing a arched spring to a flatter spring of course the ride will improve!But if you compare a flat spring with the stock shackle set up and the flip the stock will give more travel.It is a good kit and helps.But I want more down travel out of it.So I would use a longer spring and maybe move the bracket forward a little.To gain some.I want to try the revolver shackles.One guy on here said he has them on his and was testing it out.I talked to a shop about this and he said you would probaly need to move the bracket forward like I thought.Brady
     
  15. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Here's the a pic of the Revolver shackle and ORD shackle flip. This is another advantage of the shackle flip. Metal Made Rite makes the Revolvers and the cost is around $250. They are working on the front shackles for GM at this time. For more info contact Curt at MMR (307) 234-7430 or see their site at http://www.wyojeep.com. Haven't had time to ramp it yet.

    Shawn
    87 K5
     
  16. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Here's another picture.
     
  17. CBLAZER81

    CBLAZER81 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Shawn,is that the Potent Rodent?When did you add those?
    Let us know how they work if it is.

    <font color=red>Wanna'keep wheelin? Get involved!
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  18. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Why, yes it is. I added them 2 weeks ago. I'll be posting the RTI pictures and results later on. I'm now concerned with my rear 1350 driveshaft binding so I may have to get a CV shaft. My long Rancho 9012 shocks may actually limit downward travel so I need to re-position them similar to Depdogs setup.

    Shawn
     
  19. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    No offense to anyone out there, but....

    I dont recommend new springs in the rear, at least not 6" lilft springs.
    My friend bought a set for his K5 and he raves about them being so great, but we were wheelin about 3 months ago and were dropping down off a ledge into a creek. He went first and the ass end of his K5 was so stiff by those springs(which had been used for a while) almost made him roll! I went through after him and I had no problems. I am running stock springs, 3" block and a long add-a-leaf. My setp flexed right through it without a problem..
    Soon i will be doing a custom shackle flip and running a few extra leaves without spring clamps.




    Mike
    82 GMC Jimmy "Emmett" "Built for function, not for beauty!"
    IN TOO DEEP Off-Road Club
     
  20. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I am running 5 1/2" rear Superlift Softride spring packs.
    Thease packs have a total of 8leafs per back w/teflon inserts. The more leafs per pack the better the ride and flex. If you look at a pack made by National Spring (top of the line custome spring pack vendor) you will also see many leafs per pack. Some of the cheaper packs will only come with 4 or 5 leafs thease type are generally stiffer= less felx/harsh ride! What ever you choose to do your lift with I would stay away from cheep spring packs and lift blocks. Save your $$$ and doit right the first time.



    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
     

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