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Shcok and & Shock Boot Q

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TXsizeK5, Jan 3, 2003.

  1. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    Do shock boots actaully do anythign? Or are there to look pretty and hold in water? Thats what they seem to do, but who knows... can somone more expereinced than myself help me out? Also, what are good numbers for shocks. I got my SX8000 shcoks in today, they seem like they would be a tad too long. I think for the front its 16" compressed all the way. And the shocks on my truck just sitting there is about 20" And for the rear the SX8000's are 20" Compressed all the way and the ones on my truck right now are 24" just sitting there. I have a feeling my new suspension will net me a little more lift. Do I need to move my shock mounts, or are the shcoks good length? Thanks!
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Shock boots are an extremely important item to have. Not only do they look real purty by adding a splash of hot pink under the truck, but they also perform the vital duty of holding mud and grime up against the shaft and seal of the shock. Without the boots the mud would just rinse right off, and that just wouldn't do at all! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Seriously, I've never been a fan of shock boots, but just to prove to myself that they suck, I run one side of my truck with them and one side without them when I first installed my shocks. After 2 mud runs the boots that I had installed had about 2 inches of nasty mud the consistency of soft-serve ice cream. Not good! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif</font color>
     
  3. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    If you can even get the stupid boots to stay on. Even with the zip ties on them, they alway seem to pull off.
     
  4. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    I have been pondering the trade-offs lately.

    I was about to leave them off my new RS9000's when I started thinking about my road driving... flying gravel (CDOT seems to prefer pea gravel to sand for the roads in the winter), mag chloride (nasty), salt (nastier).

    Anyone have comments on these "road hazards"? I know that I would rather not have anything on them for my offroad use (my old skyjackers looked pretty nasty around the base of the boots), but off-road isn't near the percentage of my driving that I would like it to be /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  5. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    NO shock boots for me. If shock boots served any important function, the factory would use them.
     
  6. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Most OE dampers have a 'boot' of sorts. That tubular shield thingy welded to the damper shaft's eyelet. The purpose is to keep flying debris from denting or scaring the shaft. Dampers work with some pretty high pressures at times and it wouldn't take much of a scar in the shaft to allow leakage.
    Attach the upper part of the boot only. Let the lower part hang loose. Maybe even cut it so that it can't form a seal that would hold stuff inside. That should keep the junk build-up to a minimum while also protecting the shaft. If you're a serious mudder, then I don't what to tell you. Not my style of off roading so I've no experience there.
     
  7. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    well i do the mud, and it takes like 5 mins to do, is after you go, just pull up the bottom of it, and wash out the buildup. Its not that hard, and i do all 10 of mine /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif duals shocks and dual stabilizers and it dont take that long, gotta keep all the yellow under there i can /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  8. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    No boots whatsoever, oh wait I use them to add HP by putting them on my brake levers inside the cab. They never stay on, they are a vacuum for all things bad for a shock so their net worth performance wise is nil.
     
  9. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    What about the shock lengths, do i have enough compression room to not bottom out my shocks all the time, do i have to move the mounts any, ya think?
     
  10. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    You really need to cycle the suspension. Check what length shock is needed with the suspension is at full droop, then compressed the suspension and see what is needed at full compression. There you can start getting an idea.

    The basic clusterfawk in all of this is the GM design of the rear shock mounts. When I cycled my rear suspension, I found out that I was losing 4" of wheel travel because of the shock mount design. The Rancho application guide calls for part number ###### for what I have going, and it does nothing but cause broken shock mounts cause the shock is too short, but yet it's just right for compression. Therefore I really should be running limiting straps at the bare minimum, the right way would be to design the shock setup to get every bit of usable travel possible.

    So what is my advice, redo the shock mounts to a point where you will get al the usable travel possible without broken shock mounts and to use limiting straps to help.
     
  11. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Im not a fan of shock boots either. My DT8000s dont have em. If you are that concerned about water and gunk seeping into the shock body past the seals, you could get shocks that can be mounted "upside down" like the DTs... gunk doesnt generally seep upwards. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    J
     

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