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SHORT/TALL VALVE COVERS? PIX?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CHEVY 4WD, Mar 9, 2003.

  1. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    Can you run tall valve covers if you have short right now with out changing anything? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif Also does anyone have pictures of the short and tall?
     
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i put tall valve cover on the motor im building. there should be no problems with clearance.
     
  3. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    I'm thinkin going tall to short would be where the problems may arise. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    No problem bolting on tall valve covers in place of short ones. I really like these With this and this and these for that classic look. Now add These in tall along with these and it'll be looking real good. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Here is my small block with tall valve covers. I had to modify the stock alt bracket and "massage" the firewall a little bit, but other than that, there was no problem putting them on. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
    [​IMG]
     
  6. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    The problem I have running the tall is getting spark plug wires long enough..
     
  7. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    I recently sold a set of those ACDelco/Chevrolet tall covers Paul. I got them, then went w/ the Vortecs and couldnt use them. Shame too since I have always loved those covers.

    Whatever you do DONT get baffled covers. Youll take forever filling the engine w/ oil. The guy I sold them to told me that he has problems w/ oil changes. I have baffled covers on PI and have the same problem. Im changing one of them out to cure that.
     
  8. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I really like these With this and this and these for that classic look. Now add These in tall along with these and it'll be looking real good.

    [/ QUOTE ] woooo woooo woooo STOP. Just way too much chrome. /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  9. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I used to build "Classic" hot rods like the old 1973 Camaro. It was all about Crome this and Crome that. I kinda like to build them time peroid correct. My current K5 is a 1976, So it'll get all the Crome crap soomer or later.
     
  10. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Whatever you do DONT get baffled covers

    [/ QUOTE ] Never used the baffled ones. Didn't want to spend half the afternoon pooring the oil in.
     
  11. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    I had a set of M/T covers with no Baffles and those damn things leaked all the time from the oil fill holes, From then on I've always had Baffle covers.
    And you can use those covers you have just get the adptor for the center bolt and you can use either style.


    Eric
     
  12. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    I seen the adapter in Jegs. I didnt want to use them THAT bad. LOL! I just used stock covers. I did paint them and a few other things silver tho for some contrast against the black block. Not spray on chrome /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif, just silver. LOL!

    I havent had any problems in the past using non baffled covers. They SHOULD sell them 1 regular and 1 baffled. baffled one for the PCV valve open for oil changes.

    The stock covers have 1 baffled for PCV and 1 open. I welded a neck from an old style cover over the hole. (real pretty single pass w/ the mig /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif)
     
  13. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    I know what the baffle is but whats a baffle cover?
    And do you have to run those LONG bolts?
     
  14. SCOTTS_4X

    SCOTTS_4X 1/2 ton status

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    baffle cover is just a valve cover with baffles in it so that oil doesn't sling directly onto the fill plug. oh and another tip, if you can, get something that is cast aluminum. stamped steel crap will bend over time and piss you off. you will be chasing leaks all over the place. the cast covers are much more rigid and will seal alot better.

    -Scott
     
  15. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    if you can, get something that is cast aluminum. stamped steel crap will bend over time and piss you off. you will be chasing leaks all over the place. the cast covers are much more rigid and will seal alot better.


    [/ QUOTE ]Very good point!

    The newer centerbolt heads have higher rails around the VC area and help w/ leaks incredibly well. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif BUT the selection of cool VCs for centerbolt heads are slim and VERY pricey. Personally Ill just cover'em in mud anyhow so I dont bother w/ chrome on my truck.
     
  16. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Original poster: Yes tall valve covers will fit. Stamped steel and chrome ones generally don't have clearance problems (thinner material), cast aluminum tend to seal much better, but they are thicker and may cause some MINOR clearance issues. It will also depend on the manufacturer as there may be subtle differences in size and shape that may cause problems.

    As for the baffles vs. no baffles.....get a good set of covers WITH Baffles. The edlebrock ones I got have baffles with no issues pooring in oil. I think it takes 30 seconds longer to put in oil (with funnel) than it did with my old A/C delco's without baffles, but don't try to "freehand" it, or you WILL make a mess and/or take much longer. I had a pair of cheap chrome ones when I first got the truck and the baffles were so gummed up and poorly designed it took me forever to put oil in (it was actually easier to pull a cover, and using a funnel poor the oil down the oil return gally). Also my motor used to have a lot of crankcase pressure and oil would occasional make it's way out the breather (no line going back to the air cleaner housing) and make a mess (also possible fire hazzard). To each his own, but that is my recommendation.

    As for the A/C Delco's, I bought the A/C delco chrome timing chain cover, then the A/C delco valve covers and air cleaner covers, rust set in after a year (kept them clean too) thanks to the regions salt (the worst part is I don't drive it in the winter). I then went to these Timing chain cover (2 piece) and Tall valve covers and Hold downs (no spreaders needed for the cast aluminum covers) and Air Cleaner with matching water pump.

    All are nice and shiny, easy to clean, no rust. Yes Aluminum will oxidize over time, but it can be smoothed and repolished. Chrome is toast once rust sets in. Down South or out West if there is no salt, I would be more willing to go the chrome route "for looks", but up here in the salt belt, polished aluminum seems to be the only reaonable solution.
     
  17. 4DiggerDan

    4DiggerDan 1/2 ton status

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    I never thought about the complications that would come from pouring oil INTO a baffled valve cover. The covers I have now are baffled only under the PCV valve, which is good. You wouldn't believe how many people call me and ask why their engine is burning oil. Then you get a look at it, and the first thing you do is pull the PCV line off the carb and see that its full of oil. Valve covers without baffles under the PCV valve WILL usually get oil up into the line that goes to the PCV on the carb. This will result in a lovely blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

    Most of the valve covers I've seen had baffles under the PCV, and vent on the other side, and had a plain old oil fill cap with no baffles under it. Those are the one's I prefer... But I don't know who makes them. I think we get them out of Diverco or Lifeline...
     

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