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Shortbox truck owners with SM 465/NP 205 combos

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Oct 1, 2001.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Can you measure your rear driveshaft for me? I need to make one so I'd like a reasonable estimate on the length.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I would think you are better off measuring your distance between the two yokes. every rig is gonna be different(well almost everyone, stock vs. modified)
    good luck


    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/baja/5099>www.geocities.com/baja/5099</a>
     
  3. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Just measure it.
    I had Denny's build a 1350 driveshaft for me when I had the 465/205 and 14bFF in my 76 shortbox. I really don't remember how long it was. Cost was $300 with shipping and hardware.
    For some reason, the number 54 1/4" keeps coming to mind, but I can't find my reciept so maybe that's not right.
    -- Mike


    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  4. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Just measure it.
    I had Denny's build a 1350 driveshaft for me when I had the 465/205 and 14bFF in my 76 shortbox. I really don't remember how long it was. Cost was $300 with shipping and hardware.
    For some reason, the number 54 1/4" keeps coming to mind, but I can't find my reciept so maybe that's not right.
    -- Mike

    BTW, good luck with your 465/205 combo. I had to swap my 73 from 400/203 to the 465/205 and it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Remember you HAVE to get the frame z-bar bracket from the donor truck if your truck originally came with an auto.
    -- Mike


    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Yes, I knew that, thank you though anyway.

    I just wanted an idea on driveshaft length so I can get a good donor. I'm not paying $300 for a driveshaft. If a u-joint failed and it hit the payment and I had to work two weeks to buy a new one, I don't know what I'd do, but it wouldn't be good. I'll just make my own.

    My friends have done 4 speed swaps before, one did one in two days. I can't wait to get mine done. I'm doing it during my Christmas break from school. I am looking forward to losing both my 700R4 and NP 208. I am going to miss overdrive, but that will come later when I get my NV 4500. As for the NP 208 to NP 205, the 6.34:1 Low gear takes care of the ratio difference, and the strength goes without saying.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  6. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    TIm, think of it this way. If you pay the $300 for a solid 1350 yoke 3.5" tubing HD (wall thickness increased), then what is the likelihood of breaking the ujoint? MUCH less than the likelihood of breaking those 1310 ujoints up front.
    Unless your 205 came from a 1-ton, you'll need a new 1350 rear output yoke. I got my from the GM parts counter.
    On a side note, what are you planning on doing about the tranny tunnel on your truck? If your cab has the welded in tranny tunnel, it may be the low tunnel version and won't be compatible with the height of your 465. 3" body lift and a sawzall fixed that problem for a friend of mine who did the swap onto an 85 auto cab.
    -- Mike
    -- Mike

    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    How could a low tunnel interfere with the 465? All the trucks floor pans (I have seen) including my welded in '86, have the dimple for the 465. Mine was an auto w/208, so hes doing basically what I was doing, and there was no interference. I *think* 2wd/4wd might have been the low/high tunnel difference, but not positive.

    Then again, just like the weld in or bolt in tunnel, GM may have changed them for a couple of years. But my '83 was bolt in, so no problems there either.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I don't know what I'm doing with the floor yet. I think it will work fine. My friends have done this swap on 2wd cabs before and it worked, so I can't see why it won't on mine.

    I simply can't afford a $300 driveshaft right now. Maybe when I'm done restoring it, I'll consider it. For now, I'm making one.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  9. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    FYI the sm465 has a 6.55:1 granny low. I've actually been inside one to verify.

    Crawlin the rocks with my K5
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.rockreadyk5.com>http://www.rockreadyk5.com</a>
     
  10. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Plenty of low for me!! I'll never use it unless I've got a trailer behind anyway, but it's nice to have I guess.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  11. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Dorian,
    The 2wd cab my friend used had the low tunnel and simply would not fit the bug hump of a toploader like the 465. I really dislike the idea of 3" body lifts, but it worked for him. I think a good option would be a 1" body lift and a hammer, but hey I'm also the kind of guy who won;t put carpet in his truck.
    -- Mke

    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I just can't believe that GM did something as dumb as having an entire cab that wouldn't work with a 4 spd. I know what you are talking about though, the shifter "bump" sticks way up. Didn't use the wrong crossmember or tranny mounts by any chance?? 3" seems like an awful lot for basically no purpose. What could you possible gain from that 3"? 3" of legroom for the center seat position that no one wants to sit in anyways? : )

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    It's not that you'd have to change the cab, just weld or bolt in the proper center hump.

    2wd automatic trucks have a really low hump in the center, about 2" in height. TH 400 trucks and 4wd automatics of any kind usually have a pretty good sized hump, like mine does. It's my understanding that 4 speed trucks have an even bigger hump.

    I'll figure out something. Probably just have to cut a bigger hole or something. If I have to get the proper hump and weld it in, I'll do it. Like I have always done with my truck, I'll figure out something.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  14. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I think the cut and weld approach would be the best.
    My friend that did the 3" body liftto clear his 465 is on this forum - his username is Russ1020 if you need to ask him any questions.
    The crossmembers are correct - the 465/205 and crossmember never left the frame - only the cab was changed.
    -- Mike


    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  15. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    rather than install a body lift, Id just cut the whole damn tranny hump out and fab a new one later with new sheetmetal (if I couldnt find an original one from a donor)... it wouldnt really be that hard and after it was covered up it would look PERFECT.. plus, you'd have NEW holes in the sheetmetal for the shifter boots and stuff :) those things always seem to be about 2x as big around as you want em to be and the screws never fit..

    ANYHOO I have a shortbed 465/205 truck as you know and I could measure the driveshaft BUT-------- its with stock lift, and the stock 12 bolt rear axle.. Im thinking that since your rig is going to be lifted, and have a 14 bolt back there, that you really are going to want to measure it yourself... Im going to have to have a driveshaft made when I put the th350/205or203 combo into that particular truck, and Im just going to have to move/drive it around with the front driveshaft while Im waiting for the new rear one to be made.
     
  16. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Come to think of it, my dad for some reason cut the hump out of his truck and used those speed nuts (those ones that clip onto sheet metal) to retain the new hump. Perhaps thats why he did that.
    Bad thing about those humps, I don't believe they are spot welded in, think they are stamped with the floorpan. No biggie though, just cut along the line : )


    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  17. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Mike, if you have one already made, I don't have to worry about it. I know you said that's a parts truck, if you sell me that shaft, I can use it for now.

    The whole idea is that I want the shaft already made so I can bolt my 4 speed in and be done with it, not take forever welding up shafts and all that. I can do that later if I've got a shaft to run temporarily. The stock one will work fine with a 4" lift. When I go to an 8", I'll buy a 1350 shaft with a CV joint probably. I am planning on putting the 4 speed in at Christmas, then doing the frame off restoration starting next summer whem I first get out of school. My friend did his frame off in three weeks, I think mine will take about six. When I do the frame off, I'm going to lift it the 8". Then I'll get a shaft made.
    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles&lt;P ID="edit"&gt;&lt;FONT class="small"&gt;&lt;EM&gt;Edited by 84_Chevy_K10 on 10/07/01 05:20 PM.&lt;/EM&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;
     

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