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Should I ditch my 10 bolt axles?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bikejunkie, Jan 15, 2003.

  1. bikejunkie

    bikejunkie Registered Member

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    I'm kinda new, but eager to learn. I'm in the process of building up my stock 85 K5. I have 10 bolt axles f&r. I plan on putting 35's to start with. Maybe add a body lift later and go bigger.

    My delima is should I ditch my 10 bolts first. And get something stronger. Or they okay for now. I just dont want to waste money on re-gearing and such. This is not a daily driver. Its going to used to pull a boat in the summer, and crawl the rest of the time. So are these going to crap out on me as soon as I get a lift and start hammering on them? Any suggestions?? And buy the way this forum is great. You guys have really helped me with some problems, Thanks.
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, save yourself some time, effort, and money....put a 14 bolt FF out back, and while your at it...throw a dana 60 up front /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif(well, to be honest with you, the 3/4 ton version of the front 10 bolt or dana 44 will work fine with 35's).
     
  3. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    Are you going to regear? If so consider buying a 14b rear with a matched front 10/44 then go from there. Be cheaper (well maybe not, but you'd at least have a stronger rear axle). Then someday if you need it then get a 60. If you hammer on them they will break. But if you learn how to drive with them and how to find what you can handle the breakage will be limited, if at all.
     
  4. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    If you want to stay with 6 lug you can always go with a 14 bolt SF 6-Lug. I have one in my truck and so far it has held up fine with no breakage.
     
  5. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    i would say run what ya have till ya kill it...then upgrade
     
  6. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I'd say go with some 3/4 Ton axles now. For the price of regearing, you can swap in some better axles already with the gears you'll need.
     
  7. WakeBoard&4X4er

    WakeBoard&4X4er 1/2 ton status

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    I was just in the same boat /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif, I just blow my rear end and did not know if I wanted to go to a 14 as well /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. I found a 10 bolt with After market shafts, tru trac, 4.1, and 30 spline for 300 to my door /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif. what went south on my rear was a carrier barring /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif. That was not a breakage problem it was a wear problem, and lack of checking the noise in the rear for a week /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. I was not going to rear gear, I would have got a rear 60 or 14 local and got new rims /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. Sounds like you and both use our /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif about the same. I drive my truck to work everyday and around town on the weekends. Plus I have a Cobalt /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif that I take to the lake (60 miles round trip) in the summer. And yes I do wheel it as well, not as hard as I think I could but I do not want to break anything since I drive it to the spots and have to use it to get to work. If you have $1500+ /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif around go for the 60 – 14, but with 35s and all the weight you just added and OD get a 4.56 –5.13 gears in those things. Do not forget that you will have get different d-shafts or 1310-1350 u-joints, wheels unless you want to do the 8 to 6 lug change, and if you get a 60 you say 8 lug new bigger master cylinder. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
    I know I could have done all this but for 650 I got front and rear 4.1s with tru tracks both, X-over front and 8 lug set up that I am going to try to sell for $200 (about 2000 miles on all that stuff) with d-60 hubs (I think). /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    Just my take on what I would do. But of you are going to hitting the rocks hard and all that then a 14 SF might be your best idea.
    /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  8. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    A 3/4 ton front will give you nothing over a 1/2 ton front, unless it has better gears than what you currently have. They are no stroinger, just slightly heavier.

    Ken H.
     
  9. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I would say stick with what you got for now. If yours is an 85, it most likely has a 305 motor (unless someone replaced it). I have always run 10-bolts. I run 35" tires and play offroad on the trails and in the mud, but not much rock crawling. I also tow a 3500# travel trailer and a 5000# 20' Four Winns. They have always held up fine. I even replaced my 305 with a 300HP 350 and they did great. I always carry spare axleshafts (no need to be foolish) and have never used one.

    I am finally replacing mine with 14bFF and D60 right now, but I am doing it becuase I just dropped in a 420HP 383 and am going to 42s very shortly. I KNOW the 10s would not hold up then. My 10s are locked and have always provided me with great action. A lot of it has to do with how you drive it. Be smart and they won't be much trouble.

    If you are eventually going bigger, keep your 10s and slowly acquire your 1-ton setup. It is cheaper when you have the luxury of time versus having to have it now. Drive smart and you will benefit in the long run. One thing to remember, if you run 35s with a 14bFF, you will be giving up some serious ground clearnce from your 10s.
     

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