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  1. wasted wages

    wasted wages 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Dallas Texas
    Ok here's the deal,,I know enough about fabwork to realize that I should not attempt some serious modifcations without knowing what I'm getting into. Having said that my questions
    are #1 how are cages attached to the frame on truggy's,,
    welded directly to the frame or plates bolted to the frame.
    #2 what are sliders attached to (IE:welding points) do they attach to the frame? the body mounts? do you cut out the rocker panels completly?
    My friend (certified welder and black iron pipe fabricator)
    and I have been looking at many buildups here on CK5 but most pictures are not close ups of how the cages attach.
    anyone care to help a newbie to the fab dept???? /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif
     
  2. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
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    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    There have been lots of posts on sliders. And there is an article somewhere on the web, but I don't have a link. Maybe offroad.com?

    My personal preference for a K5 is to replace the rockers with 2 x 3 x 0.188 square tube placed just below the door seal area. Basically, leave the door seal flat area and pinch weld intact, and weld the tube below that. You can even space it down a bit so it comes under and behond the door pinchweld to help protect the door.

    Uping the ante a bit more would be to raise the door seal area up to and including a full boatside like I did on my son's K5.
     
  3. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Location:
    Indiana
    There's no need for sliders.... or floors /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
    I think they both are over-rated, personally I like good old fashion leg power

    [​IMG]
    /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
    [​IMG]

    OK I'll contribute something that might be of worth
    I think this fender bolt is the hardest thing to work around when doing silders
    [​IMG]
    I'm using 3x3 1/8th wall square tube and I ended up having t notch out about 3/8" to get it to fit around the bolt. What I ended up doing is welding in a plate to the ends (I notched out a 3/8" gap and an extra 3/8" for the plate to go back in)
    [​IMG]
    I'm going to drill two more holes (one on either side of the fender bolt a couple pics up), hold the slider up tight and mark those two holes on the 3/8" plate I welded in to the ends of the slider. Then drill and tap the holes. When the slider is mounted there will be two bolt there so in the future if I pull the fender I can still unbolt it and not have to cut it off from welding it (plus I can't weld upsidedown and backward in the wheel well so this is my work around /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif)

    Hopefully next week I will put the sliders in place and start fabbing up the new floor sections for the front
     
  4. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Location:
    abcde
  5. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
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    Location:
    VA
    [ QUOTE ]

    [​IMG]


    [/ QUOTE ]
    Kinda drastic wasn't it? Couldn't you just crawl underneath to paint your frame rails!! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
    That's some SERIUOS body work you're doing!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    serious rust calls for drastic measures... this is an extra vehicle that I bought for the use of offroading, so I will probley take it further than needed with rust repair... EX: all the floors are or will soon be 1/8" diamond tread steel plate, rockers will be 3x3" tube, floors braces will be 1x1.5" tube and alot of bracing of 1.5x1.5" angle. I cut out about 400-500 worth of rust and I'm putting at least 700 lbs of steel back in.
    http://www.jjlaughner.com/truck/rustybucket.html
     
  7. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    serious rust calls for drastic measures... this is an extra vehicle that I bought for the use of offroading, so I will probley take it further than needed with rust repair... EX: all the floors are or will soon be 1/8" diamond tread steel plate, rockers will be 3x3" tube, floors braces will be 1x1.5" tube and alot of bracing of 1.5x1.5" angle. I cut out about 400-500 worth of rust and I'm putting at least 700 lbs of steel back in.
    http://www.jjlaughner.com/truck/rustybucket.html

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Brave man!!! You know it'll be worth it in the end..good luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Bump it back to the top with more pics

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Ended up knotching the sliders cut a hole for the fender bolt to go into and then stuck two bolts in the front fender/mount, welded the rear and I'm planning on a pan head bolt to bolt it to the crossmember. I still need to brace the silder back to the floor support and lay the front floors in /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  9. Bhintz

    Bhintz 1/2 ton status

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    looking good /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  10. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Indiana
    Drivers side is done, I'm going to trim tomorrow
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is how I regapped the door /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
    [​IMG]

    what does a perfectly RE-gapped door sound like? Click here (quicktime)
    not bad for a an old loose rusted out POS that the doors didn't even close a couple days ago! floors are gone and all the loose stuff has been trimmed or tack welded /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     

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