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smoking gun.....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, May 23, 2001.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I've been reviewing posts about valve seals and smoking at start up. Now I know why this is, but I'd like to know why all of a sudden mine started doing this after I put in the Engine Restore. Also since then my valve covers are leaking. What gives?
    anywho, Im replacing the seals with the umbrella's and new cover gaskets. Is there anything else I should do "While Im in there"?

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10/12 bolt w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I would guess the restore stuff you put in is breaking up the carbon and thats were your smoke is comming from. I would also guess that your oil is thining out from that stuff to and causing the oil to get past your seals. Kida like when you put sythetic oil in a motor that has 100K+ miles on it and all of a sudden you have oil spots all over your driveway....
    I am just guessing......

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com>http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. 1990SilveradoK5

    1990SilveradoK5 1/2 ton status

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    My K5 smokes also, I have had it 5 months now on my second oil change. The first change I used that Restore stuff to try and recondition the seals, it seemed to smoke more with that stuff. This last oil change I put 30 weight oil in, now that it has warmed up I can do that here in MI, and it smokes less.
    Just to give you an Idea, first oil change I used a quart or so a week. I cut that almost in half by using the 30 and forgoing the Restore stuff.

    Changed my plugs at the last change and it looks like #1 is the only cylinder that is causing any problems. She's still strong and oil is cheap so no engine work in the near future.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://1990silveradok5.coloradok5.com/>http://1990silveradok5.coloradok5.com/</A>
    Gone Large and Loving It.
    Keith
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    At any rate. I probably need to replace the valve cover gaskets now that they are leaking. But I'll try another oil change without the "FIT IT" crap. And see what it does.
    Also, manual says 5w30, but it gets pretty hot here in Nashville expecially with all the traffic. So would it hurt to run 10w30?

    My president is Steve Fox.
    90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  5. 89Blazin

    89Blazin 1/2 ton status

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    It's funny.....10w40 was recommended in the 350s for decades. I don't know if the 5w30 started with the TBI 350s or what. My 89 says 5w30 too...I still use 10w40. I've often wondered how "calibrated" that multi-visc. oil is anyway.

    85 Burb and an 89 Blazer
    One just for fun, one simply for pleazer
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    10w40 was recommended until the auto manufacturers realized that all of the additives required to get that wide of a performance variation from dinosaur juice were causing serious problems. Seems that the additives were crystalizing around the rings in some vehicles and causing the rings to break, resulting in expensive warranty repairs. By using slightly less of the additives, the problem is minimized. So they started recommending 10w30 (and later 5w30 in the quest for mileage gains).

    Pure synthetic oils don't contain the parrafins that cause dino-based oil to change viscosity over various temperatures, so the additives in them are minimal.

    Lubricants actually are "calibrated" pretty closely to what is stated on the label. The refiners know how much of which additives to put in the mix to get the oil to perform properly in their viscosity testing. The tests use standard testing methods that are defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers and are fairly simple to perform. The refineries have test labs on site that are constantly testing samples from production to determine any changes required in the process to make sure the end product meets their specs.

    I guess I asked too many questions when I used to go onsite to fix the computers at oil and chemical refineries along the Houston Ship Channel... [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Oh yeah, while you're "in there", how about a nice set of Comp Cams Magnum Roller-tip rocker arms? [​IMG] Since they're based right there in Memphis, maybe you can find a "local boy" special! [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  8. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, you see there you go again, I was planning on installing a new cam in the sometime future. And was contemplating just pulling the whole motor and going through it. But I cant get no funds going right now, so I at least wanted to get the oil situation under control for now.
    My next main concern is getting the slip/fix kit for me 241 and going through the T-case with new suit and tie. The enigne will be last if it makes it that long.


    My president is Steve Fox.
    90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  9. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    It's real common for Chevy's to smoke a little on start up. I would suspect the same thing....it took care of the carbon that was plugging places.
    10w40 is not good oil. I'm in Texas and I run 10w30 all year. It's going to be the best all around oil.

    Imagine a cowgirl twirling a rope.
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A>
     
  10. K5Jimmy

    K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    If any Chevy I owned didn't smoke a little at startup, I'd think something was rwong....mine smokes with 115K on it....I drove it 2500M round trip from Dallas to Martinsville runnin' 75-80 the whole way.....I used Half a quart for the whole trip....I'd say that if yer gonna replace the engine pretty soon anyways, Let 'er smoke......save yer money for a rebuild or fix some other part that needs it.......just an opinion.....JD

    I'm at 10th and Plum....10 miles from nowhere, and Plum out in the sticks....Stuck?...Hell no..I still got some gas left..
     
  11. K5Jimmy

    K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Correction Here:....."If any Chevy I ever owned didn't smoke, I'd think something was rwong"........If my Vette ever smokes.....or leaks....or rattles....or anything....I'll empty my checkbook.........But as I said in another post....I'm more concerned about someone stealing my Jimmy than I am about the Vette......ain't K5's funny that way??.....JD

    I'm at 10th and Plum....10 miles from nowhere, and Plum out in the sticks....Stuck?...Hell no..I still got some gas left..
     
  12. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    LEt me rephrase, I left the out the thing that really bugs me.
    I think my seals are leaking so bad that when I sit at idle too long, IE 10 minutes or more they start leaking and it really starts to turn ol Puff daddy on me. thats the part I hate. Especially waiting in line with all the other parents to pick up your kid from school on friday, and I start pulling the old James Bond manuver.

    My president is Steve Fox.
    90-350TBI-TCI700-241-33"-10 bolts w/4.10's,
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     

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