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solid or greaseable, when should which be used ?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by R72K5, Apr 25, 2002.

  1. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    tell me about it, are solid joints good idea for work truck ?
    and whats reccommended grease to use in U koints anyways ? hi temp yellow or black chassis ?

    thanks
     
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I use non-greasable in high stress applications (ie. D44 wheel joints) and greasable everywhere else. The non-greasable are stronger but the greasable ones will last longer (assuming you don't break them and that you grease them).
     
  3. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    thats fvor reply, all makes sense :d
    so wjat grease do you reccommend for U joints anyways, whats supposed to be used, ive seen people use both hi temp and chassis, i wouldnt think U joints get hot enough to warrant using Hi temp, or can they maybe on at highway speeds continously ?
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I have 2 grease guns. One is filled w/ high temp wheel bearing grease (that way I can use one of those little bearing packers to pack the bearings) and one w/ marine grease. I use the one w/ bearing grease on my s-10 and the marine grease on my Blazer. I go through grease so slowly that the price for the wheel bearing grease really doesen't matter...and the ease of packing wheel bearings makes it all worth it. If you ever have your Blazer in the water or mud I would use the marine grease for everything!
     
  5. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    nice, i like that info /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    thanks
     
  6. Klef72K5

    Klef72K5 1/2 ton status

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    FYI most new vehicles use the non greaseable joints now. My Ram has over 107,000 without a change. My 79 Jeep kept breaking the greaseable universals. I too thought it made sense to grease them because of the mud and sand, but the solids has a synthetic grease already and have a tighter tolerance on the end cap seals (fits very tight) since you do not have to grease. I no longer break universals either. My Blazer will definitely get the solids!
     
  7. ratpack7

    ratpack7 Guest

    I ate though a set of greasable ujoints in 4 month's on my 74 and droped the drive line. I'm trying the soild type now hope they last longer.
     
  8. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    Never buy cheap Ujoints. The better ones cost more and are worth it. USA made is best. I believe in greasable...but they aren't better if you don't grease them. I have non greaseables in my rear shaft. They are BruteForce from Autozone. My ArizonaDriveline front shaft came with greaseables all around. I still add grease to nongreaseables if I have them apart or to install. I use Chevron #2 "red and tacky" grease. It is rated for extremely high pressure and shockload applications...ie...Ujoints. It is also rated for disc brake wheel bearings and has a "high resistance to water washout". I buy it by the case at a local Amoco commercial wholesaler. It is still just as cheap as crappy parts store chassis grease by the tube. I use it in everything. I think the PN is 305D and it is in a blue tube. It is called Ultra duty Grease EP, NGLI 2.
     
  9. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    red and tacky #2 valvoline, hm interestig, no amoco supplier like that around here, we have a Hicks Oils though, thats closest thing i think. not much going on in middle of corn belt fields.
    thanks!@
     
  10. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    damn!
     
  11. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I think the graphite "moly" grease is for u-joints, but I like the marine grease idea.
     
  12. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    I use two grease guns (three, actually) also. I have one large gun with regular EP moly grease in it, one large gun with marine grease, and a mini gun with marine grease. I use the marine grease on the suspension bearings in my Trans Am and in my Blazer's ball joints, U-joints, and driveshafts.
     

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