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Solutions for Custom Rad hoses

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ottoman, Jan 22, 2004.

  1. ottoman

    ottoman Registered Member

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    Hello everyone,

    Does anyone have advice on how to make custom rad hoses?

    I have a tall deck 427 that is going into my 72 blazer. One problem I've come accross is that I will have to make custom rad hoses (upper and lower). I've looked at coolflex but their max hose size diameter is 2". My tall deck engine has the original intake manifold with a 2-1/8" water neck and uses the original water pump with a 2-3/4" inlet. These will hook up to the radiator's 1-9/16" upper inlet and 1-7/8" lower outlet. I can't change the water pump to one with a smaller inlet for several reasons (Bypass size ,pulley alignment ...etc)

    Does anyone have suggestions of how I can make the custom hoses I need?

    So far, I thought of using short straight pieces of rad hose for the inlets/outlets and getting custom bent exhaust pipe to go in-between but the guy at the exhaust shop I went to can't bend the pipe as tight as I need.
    I've also looked through the rad hose inventories of several auto parts stores and nothing comes close. Especially the 2-3/4 inch requirement.

    I'm sure that I'm not the only one who has had this problem.
    Any other suggestions would be great,

    thanks,

    ottoman
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    someone may come along with a better solution, but maybe i can at least help you on hose...

    you may want to check into marine wet exhaust hose.

    http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/wetex_hose.htm

    stuffs pretty bullet proof and goes up to 10" diameters. use the wire reinforced or corogated stuff because of bends if you try it.. not overly cheap tho..

    as far as reductions, not sure, maybe have a rad shop weld some new bungs into the rad?
     
  3. rcurrier44

    rcurrier44 1/2 ton status

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    I used strait pieces of exhaust tube and used soft radiator hose for the bends.
     
  4. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    How about having someone weld new hose bibs on the radiator. Then find a hose that mates to the engine and the hose bibbs could be sized for the other end of the hose. Shouldn't be too hard for someone who knows how to weld . Or you could try to expand the existing hose bibs just like exhaust pipe perhaps.
    Just some thoughts, hope it helps.
    Paul /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  5. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    Take a piece of Heat riser Aluminum hose and make a copy of the hose you need for the upper and lower. go to a part store and see if they can come up with something close to what you need that may be able to be cut down to fit your size and contuor that you need.... Also look into the hot rod shops or Corvette shops for a hose that would work....

    Then talk to a radiator shop about converting your tank size pipe to match what your working with on the engine. Will be custom work but will look good, if done right....
     
  6. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    exhaust pipe will start to rot fast and get into cooling system

    i always use brass drain pipe and hose clamps to splice and make a custom hose.
    same thickness as the inlet and outlet of the radiator

    good luck
     
  7. alesko

    alesko Registered Member

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    Heres a couple of pics of my hoses on a tall deck. I just used a exhaust reducer on the top hose. On the bypass that comes out of the intake, all I did was cut the hose and installed a large soft plug with a clamp. That would allow you to use a regular big block water pump and be able to use the stock bottom hose. However you could use a reducer on the bottom hose too. I have been using this setup since 1983 without any troubles. Hope this helps.

    Ok, If these pics don't work here is a link that will take you to the pics too. Sorry first time trying to post images.

    1976 Chevy Truck and Hoses Info


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. ottoman

    ottoman Registered Member

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    I would like to thank everyone who came up with suggestions.

    I settled on using a 2-1/8 upper rad hose that went from the thermostat housing to within 4 " of the upper rad water neck (looked at a lot of hoses at the parts store). Then, with an exhaust reducer and 3" long short piece of smaller hose, I coupled it to the rad. (alesko's idea)

    For the bottom, I went to the hardware store and found two pipe end caps for 1-1/2" and 2-1/2" standard pipe (I believe). When the end caps are reversed they fit snug into the hoses. I took a hole saw, cut openings in the ends of the caps, and welded them together. Along with a little grinding (inside and out) they worked well for a short reducer (2 inches). I could then put a 2" piece of 2-3/4" hose on the pump end and the regular lower hose on the other. The lower hose is rubbing the frame but I may be able to use a coolflex or something else to go to the rad.

    I fired it up yesterday, ran it up to temperature, and everything held.

    I am not too worried about rust in the couplers since I use antifreze and rust inhibitors in all my engines.

    thanks again to everyone who responded,

    ottoman
     
  9. steelsoldiers

    steelsoldiers 1/2 ton status

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    Just a note of caution for you. I used a exhaust pipe reducer to hook up my Caddy 500 hoses to my 6.2L diesel radiator. It got hot one day on a long haul and the hose blew off of the adapter because it didn't have the ridge on it to keep the clamp from slipping by. You can use a welder and lay a bead around the adapter on either end to keep the clamps and hoses in place. It works like a champ too /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  10. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Just a note of caution for you. I used a exhaust pipe reducer to hook up my Caddy 500 hoses to my 6.2L diesel radiator. It got hot one day on a long haul and the hose blew off of the adapter because it didn't have the ridge on it to keep the clamp from slipping by. You can use a welder and lay a bead around the adapter on either end to keep the clamps and hoses in place. It works like a champ too /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Another option is to have a bead rolled in the end of thin walled tube. The bead rollers race car fab places use can does this if they have the right die set. I can do it here in Ventura, CA. User name at yahoo is my eddress.

    Fergot to mention that you can buy true mandrel bent exhasut tubing from places like SPD Be sure to buy stainless where ever you get it or it will rust away rapidly.
     
  11. alesko

    alesko Registered Member

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    I don't know why some insist that the reducer will rot away, or the hose will blow off without a lip. As seen in the pics of my previous post, this reducer has been on here since 1983, 21 years seems pretty dependable to me. Maybe I'm missing something?
     

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