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Something snapped?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by riggz, Feb 24, 2005.

  1. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    Ok so I just rebuilt my TBI on my 350 5.7. one of the injectors was dead. so i replaced both injectors and cleaned the hell out of it. put it all back together with a new pcv valve and a new breather filter.

    so i started it up and it ran nice but a bit high on the idle. then i noticed that the hose coming from the pcv valve came loose from the TBI. so i put it back on and it idled down to normal. i let it run for a few minutes then i turned it off and tried to restart it. it started up fine for a few seconds then it idled up quickly and choked out. i restarted it and same thing again. if i hit the pedal it will idle up and run, but otherwise it sorta spits and sputters before choking itself out. right before it does this it seems like the injectors are spraying twice the fuel it normaly puts out. after a few more restarts the whole truck went dead. like a fuse blew. shut down everything. no dome light, no buzzer noise, nothing when the key is turned. no headlights or anything. battery terminals are snug and battery is new. grounding to truck is good and i believe connection to the starter is good as well. Anyone have any idea what the hell is up?

    (this may be related: should there be fuel on top of the injectors? seems like its puddled up on top of them.)
     
  2. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    any ideas? what would have caused complete electrical system failure?
     
  3. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    sounds like you popped a fusable link...

    the other issue sounds eerily like a stuck IAC i had... would idle up, dump fuel, etc...
     
  4. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    hmm so should i just replace it? or is there a way to unstick it? when i put the plug back into it didnt really 'snap' in or anything, just kinda pushed hard and left it. maybe the plug is buggered up. ill check into it when i figure out what killed my electrical system. thanks :)
     
  5. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    well, i just replaced mine.. i've been told to make sure you get a quality one.. forget what i put in, prolly an AC... they get loaded with carbon.. conelike piece with a spring behind it.. might be able to pull it and just douche it with carb cleaner.. think they run in the $50 range.. and mine have always had that nice little click when plugged in...

    once you get power back and try it again.. i would also pull codes real quick with the paper clip and make sure its not "telling" you whats wrong...
     
  6. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    ok you have a link to the paper clip method?
     
  7. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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  8. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    Ok electrical system failure was due to a bad ground to the chassis. Not sure how since it was tight as hell and barely rusted, but i took it out and sanded the bolt and chassis down to shiny metal and its back to normal now. Replaced the IAC (i noticed it doesnt snap because the plug part of the snap is broken, but its snugly in place.

    I ran the paper clip CES light test and it gave me a read out of 22 which = Low Signal Voltage on the Throttle Position Switch. Is this something that I can replace or will it need to be calibrated or something?
     
  9. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    ok wtf, i replaced the TPS and now it tells me error code 21: High voltage on TPS....... i think my ECM is confused. Its not flooding itself out now at least. now it will run for a bit but spit and sputter. could this be due to a bad cat convertor? i have true dual exhaust and the cat on the passenger side is bad (loud clanking noise after a few minutes of engine running.) well now i dont really hear the clanking noise but that side back fired a couple times and then the engine stalled. guess my next step is to cut that bad boy out. :hack:
    If i get some temp exhaust hose to put in place of the cat will that hurt the engine if one side has a cat and the other doesnt?
     
  10. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    so i havent cut the exhaust yet. today i started it up again and it ran fine for a couple minutes then it crapped out. seems like it craps out once it starts to get warm. any ideas here? im reaching. :/
     
  11. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    hmmm, CTS maybe? coolant temp sensor...
     
  12. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    k ill try that route! lol such a vivid reminder as to why i parked this money pit years ago.

    on a side note, does anyone have the part #'s for the drive belts? it appears i have 4 belts.
     
  13. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    I would trace the wiring for the TPS, I dont recall if it has its own ground or not, may try checking that, Ill also concur the CTS, it has screwed w/ my old 350 and my 496 lol, its a bastard of a sensor, throws everything off.
     
  14. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    ok somethings a bit qwerky with my grounding. upon trying to start it, i noticed a burnt smell. the smaller ground coming from the battery terminal to the front of the engine compartment was melting. it appears the ground to the alternator isnt doing its job. im gunna that one down and see if that helps.
     
  15. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    which sensor is the CTS? i have one on the driver side with 1 wire and one next to the thermostat with 2 wires. also what temp thermostat should i get?
     
  16. tx_sub

    tx_sub 1/2 ton status

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    the CTS is the one on the manifold next to the t-stat. i would run a 180 degree one. have you reset the computer after each change by disconnecting it for a few minutes?
     
  17. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    ok thanks. yes, ive disconnected the battery many times for 5 minute time periods.

    so what is the sensor called located just above the headers on the driver's side that is also in the coolant? has only a single wire that clips on. is it called the temperature switch/sender?
     
  18. tx_sub

    tx_sub 1/2 ton status

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    the one in the head is for the guage. i dont' know the part number off hand. i can look it up when i get home. just make a note of how the connecter looks and have the parts people pull both of em and you'll be good.
     
  19. riggz

    riggz Registered Member

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    rock on! still same issue. replaced the CTS, thermostat 180degrees, temp sender to gauge and radiator cap! :P still have the same issue, i looked at the timing and it appears to be at 0 degrees. im about to push this truck over a cliff! My next guess is the fuel pump.

    Here is an update on everything:

    Fresh Gas
    Oil Changed
    New Oil Filter
    New Battery
    New Battery Cables
    New Distributor Cap
    New Distributor Rotor
    New Spark Plug Wires
    New Spark Plugs (Gapped @ .45)
    New Fuel Filter
    Rebuilt & Cleaned The TBI
    New Fuel Injectors
    New PCV Valve
    New Breather Filter
    Reconditioned K&N Air Filter
    New Throttle Position Switch
    New Idle Air Control Sensor
    New Thermostat
    New Coolant Temperature Sensor
    New Temperature Sender To Gauge
    Ignition Timing Is Set To 0*

    Vacuum lines appear to be in good condition. (I unplugged a line from the globe looking thing near the drivers side on the firewall and it released pressure.)
    Still getting error code 21 = High TPS voltage.

    Upon a cold start the Engine will take a few tries before it finally fires. Once fired, it runs smooth for about 2-3 minutes. Then engine spits and sputters and eventually stalls out.
     

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