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sooo many Questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Redfrog, May 4, 2001.

  1. Redfrog

    Redfrog 1/2 ton status

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    I am new here but have always thought that K-5's should be
    the only suv's allowed on the road.. I have a couple of questions. has anyone changed vent window rubber?
    what will I have to change (if anything) when I change my
    np203 to np205? and I have replaced 4 u-joints on the axle
    end of my rear drive shaft in the last 6 months its getting to be a real pain in the a$$ what could be causing it? I keep them
    greased, the rear end has new gears done by some one who
    knows what they were doing could it be the transfer case
    HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

    hey Fords!!! how many flushes does it
    take to get rid of you
     
  2. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    OK, first some advice - K5 and SUV don't mix, some here get offended by that terminology. Far as the vent window rubber goes, it's not too bad to change out, just take your time and enjoy the process. I'm not too experienced with X-fer cases, but there's alot of folks here that will help you out. Also prepare to spend alot of time here, and hope that you never go through the withdrawals we all did during the last week when the site was down[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. red75blazer

    red75blazer Registered Member

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    On the vent windows, for a few more $$s you can get the whole assembly. Less aggravation. But it is more $$s.

    red75blazer
     
  4. CV202

    CV202 1/2 ton status

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    Welcome! As far as the window rubber, haven't tried that one yet, I just jamb a match book between the latch and the window frame to tighten it up (good if I forget my lighter too!) As far as the U-jopints at the axle end of the driveshaft, check and make sure your retainer bolts (hold the U-joint in) aren't overtightened, this can squash the cup enough to make it wear out prematurely. Also make sure the bearings stay in place and don't end up in the end of the cup, that'll kill a u-joint quick if you manage to get it mounted. Also check and make sure you didn't throw a weight on the driveshaft. Is it vibrating?

    Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!! [​IMG]
     
  5. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    need more info on the truck... is it lifted?regardless the short wheelbase trucks are hard on u-jt's, but possible could be too harsh of a driveshaft angle... even if it is stock I would measure the angle of the jt. Possibly a t-case drop could help... I'd also recomend a HD precision u-jt or best choice would be a spicer jt. I really doubt it is the t-case itself. It would be a first.

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I agree, need more info, like lift, etc. However, if its not lifted, you may want to check the yoke (piece the u-joint bolts to at the axle) and make sure the straps/u-bolts aren't ruined, that you are installing the u-joints correctly (the C-clip style needs to have the open end of the clip on the strap side, and the strap should not be clamped over the c-clip)

    A previous owner on my truck had clamped the C-clips down with the straps, bending them. Then, when I put a new u-joint in correctly, it was too loose, but I couldn't see it at the time. When I finally did realize it (two u-joints later) the yoke was ruined. Replacing the yoke fixed the problem. It was visibly ruined.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  7. shane

    shane 1/2 ton status

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    make sure to keep the driveshaft in phase (u-joints lined up the same)or you will get a slight vibration that can eat u-joints.

    Shane

    Just keepin it Canadian[​IMG]
     
  8. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Welcome to the family. one thing you can do to help us help you is give some more details in your profile. I saw your profile and it shows you have two K5's but no info about them. As for the U-joints what kind are you buying. Are they cheapos or good ones. So like everyone said we need more info.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jamonline.homestead.com/fromthegroundupK54x4/89Jimmy.html>http://jamonline.homestead.com/fromthegroundupK54x4/89Jimmy.html</A>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    unless you have a two piece driveshaft, it appears "phasing" is meaningless, since the shaft can't go together but one way, and the u-joints are automatically "phased" Since the entire drivetrain is not balanced as a unit (driveshaft is balanced alone, tires are balanced alone, engine is balanced alone, yokes balanced alone) driveshaft orientation, whether exactly as the factory did it, or 180 degrees off, means nothing. The shaft was balanced as a seperate unit, therefore, it cannot be the cause of vibration. Anything bolted to it can be, but again, since even the yokes are not balanced with the shaft, it is basically impossible to solve that problem.

    On a two piece shaft, if you were to disassemble it, and not mark the splines, then you could have a "phasing" problem, since the u-joints might not be oriented the same direction. (basically you should have a straight line to each u-joint cap at the front and rear of the 'shaft)



    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  10. shane

    shane 1/2 ton status

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    true, a one piece driveshaft should not have a phasing problem, I guess I wasn't thinking straight.

    You might also want to check to make sure that you haven't lost any weights off of the driveshaft. I might also be slighty bent. It might be an idea to take it off and have it balanced to be sure.

    Just keepin it Canadian[​IMG]
     
  11. Redfrog

    Redfrog 1/2 ton status

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    I have bought good and I have bought $10.00 specails
    (which by the way lasted about the same time) it does not
    really matter they just go bad in about month or so I'm about
    ready to go buy another K-5 and park the one I am driveing
    until I get it figured out HA! Come to think of it that sounds like a good idea one cannot ever have to many K-5's I will update my profile too.

    hey Fords!!! how many flushes does it
    take to get rid of you
     
  12. Redfrog

    Redfrog 1/2 ton status

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    OK I will take the hint from the (OK Evreyone post) HA HA HA :) the info on the 79 K-5 Im having problems with is as follows: It is from a retirement village in Arkansas, so It has no rust except for what DEVELPOED OVER THIS WINTER ARGHHH! sorry touchy subject. Anyway it has all of the orginal parts. like all of the steering, ball joints, tie rods ect. It kinda of suprises me because ithas over 150,000 on it. The motor was rebulit 2yrs before I bought it and was only driven approx 800mlies on the rebuild, the 350th and np 203 have never been touched except for regular maint and the output shaft on the case because the day it was bought the village had warn lockouts installed with a part time kit. Plus add on air which I took out(did not work) the front and rearends have new gears I won't say what size because it is embarassing I will say I get about 14 to 17 mpg with right now is good. the only things that are not orginal ar the rims&tires and the rear driveshaft(I replaced the orginal) and the front shaft (just recived today). I know all of this because
    I bought it off of a family member who works for the village
    and was his truck when it was bought new in 79 so when the village decided to sell it he bought it for a hunting rig but most of the time it sat. What a shame. The size of tires that are on it are 31-10.50s and has never been lifted. So anyway I hope that is enough info sorry I did not supply it sooner.

    HEY Fords!!! how many flushes does it
    take to get rid of you
     

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