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Speaking of a 12-bolt...how about a truss

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by '73 K5, Mar 29, 2000.

  1. '73 K5

    '73 K5 1/2 ton status

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    What I'm looking for is an axle truss for the 12-bolt that bolts in above the axle as to not affect ground clearance. I think I saw one somewhere in a magazine a long time ago. Any ideas?

    '73 K5
    Chevy good...Ford bad
     
  2. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    Technically, it would take a lot more to have an above the axle truss. The truss keeps your straight axle tubes from becoming 'U' shaped. They do this by connecting the ends together across the bottom of the differential housing. When the downward force is applied, the truss conteracts this because it would have to get longer. If you put a truss over the axle, it will have to be designed not to get shorter. This means it would need to be solidly attached to the entire length of the axle to be effective as a similar sized truss below. Either that or would have to be a lot more rigid. just my 50 cents worth

    the Goose
     
  3. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Properly fabbed, it wouldn't be too heavy. A 3/16-1/4" flange running from the tube ends that gradually gets taller until it meets the center housing. Scallop it along the tube. Tack-weld where it contacts. Weld same thickness plate, maybe 1/2" or so wide, to the top of the flange to create an I-beam-type structure. Should be pretty stout and lightweight. I'll try to draw this idea up and post it later. Meanwhile, feel free to shoot my idea full of holes...

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
    [​IMG] So many ideas, so little money...
     
  4. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I will probably truss my 12 bolt soon. I plan to use a 1 5/8" round tube. I will bend it to reach from each spring perch to above the center section. I will then weld 1/4" plate to fill the gap between the axle tubes/center section and the new brace. I may drill some holes in the plate to lighten it after welding it. You may want to check some back issues of Fourwheeler (last few months) or 4 wheel and off road. I saw a truss for this type of axle that had a removable section to access the rear pan. I think the person above was correct in stating the truss would work better in tension than compression, however it I dont want the low hanging, mud dragging, truss on the bottom. Either way, it is going to help...

    <font color=red>Mudzer</font color=red>
    1978/91 K5 Blazer
     
  5. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Go and check out www.4x4review.com. They have done exactly what you want on a 10 bolt axle.

    Depdog

    <font color=blue>"Lead, Follow, or BECOME the Trail"</font color=blue>
     
  6. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    When i TWISTED my 12bolt I had one of those bolt on trusses from ConFerr and I belive that is the only reason the whole rearend didn't turn into a U.
    When I was climbin a hill and gased it at the wrong time my frontend came off the ground and then BANG the rear driveshaft hit the floor of my rig and I thought I had just busted a Ujoint....Nope, the pumkin had twisted on the axel tubes and the casting had a nice crack in it![​IMG]
    Anyway removed the driveshaft and 6hrs later in front wheel drive I limped the rig home. I swear to this day that truss heald the tubes into the pumkin![​IMG]
    A truss is a great Idea for the lighter axels even iff you have to sacrafice a few inches on clearance.
    Now I'm running a D60 so probably won't happen again.
    Later

    Rock ON!
     

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